I'd jmod it. If it's been taken care of it will last. If the fluid hasnt been changed in 80,000 then who knows how long it will last... but either way taking that slippage out of the tranny will reduce the heat in the fluid, which is always good.
OK, I get it. The larger holes increase the life of the trans.
cool...I kinda thought drilling the holes would mean removing the valve body. Isn't that more difficult than not removing it?
yeah, thats what I'm dreading. I don't even have a driveway at my current house, so its gonna prove to be be EXtra messy. All the dirt and dust makes me worry about it getting in the trans or any other part and ruining the whole job.
I guess I shouldn't look for shortcuts though.
If you hook a hose to the line coming out of the trans to the radiator, or on top where the fluid comes out of the radator, you can turn the car on and drain about 1 gallon of the fluid out. this will greatly reduce the big fluid spill you'll make. Wear old clothes too, tranny fluid never really comes out.
Thanks. I have a bad habit of not thinking about what clothes I have on before I crawl under the car! I read that only about 1 quart will remain in the pan after I pump out through the open line....true? or does only about a gallon come out?
Oh there's more than a quart left, but not too much. I would recommend getting the oil pan with the drain plug so it only has to be this messy once. Also, you have to remove the valve body to change the accumulator springs or pretty much anything else. Might as well do it.
I've done some with a press, others with a regular cord drill... its really not hard, just take your time, don't rush, and read the directions! One step at a time and you'll see it's really not hard.
I've done all mine with a drill, don't worry about that part at all. I agree the hardest part is cleaning the seperator plate gaskets off. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder for the stubborn pieces.
On mine, the razor removed most of it, but there was still some pieces around some of the holes that even a new razor couldn't take care of. I have done a couple JMods that the whole gasket came off in one piece just using a razorblade around the edges to break it free.
u should definitly drill the plate since you'll have the valve body out to change the 2-3 accumulator. when we did mine we used a regular cordless drill and the gaskets werent to hard to get off.
Ok, I'll probably look like a DUMB A** for this one, but I'd rather ask then get it screwed up. The mods for the accumulators (Atrains article) are listed seperate from the valve body/main control mods, do you have to do both, or can you drill the plate without doing the accumulators? Will it have the same effect that way, or is it pointless to drill the plate without doing the accumulators?
the firm shifts come from the seperator plate basically. the springs and accumulators are just updated b/c they tend to break. And basically its a pain to do the jmod 2 times so its just good to do it all at once while you have it apart
there is no good reason not to do both. once the valve body is out to drill the plate, the accumulators are right there. its about 10 more minutes of work. and if you were thinking about just doing the accumulators, u gotta pull the valve body out anyway to get to them (only the 1-2 accumulator can be reached with valve body still in) so why not drill ther seperator plate.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
TCCoA Forums
1.5M posts
26.9K members
Since 2002
A forum community dedicated to Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar and Lincoln Mark owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!