Torque Converter Install
I dug this up from an old post of mine:
I did a torque converter swap in my cougar myself, with no prior experience. It wasn't too hard.
You have to take the exhaust down, and you'll need a nice long extension to get to the driverside bolts from the top, and you might want to get a pack of replacement studs in advance, I bent 2 taking mine down.
To undo the driveshaft, you'll have to take down the driveshaft loop at the back and the little heatshield thats infront of the gas tank. The bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rearend are either 12mm or 13mm 12-point. (I can't remember which right now) I couldn't get a socket in there, so I used the box end of a regular combination wrench and a pipe extension to break them free.
You'll also need to lower the gas tank. You want an almost empty tank, at least less than an 1/8 of a tank. Place a jack and a board underneath it, it's plastic and you dont want all the weight of the tank concentrated on one place. Undo the 4 bolts for the straps and follow the fill tube up to a bolt that holds it in place, you need to undo that one too in order to drop the tank. It's easier to undo the driveshaft before you drop the tank.
Before you pull the driveshaft out, make sure you can see the yellow paint marks on the driveshaft and on the rear-end. You'll need to line these up when you put the drive shaft back in, so make sure you can see them or make new ones. Also when you pull the driveshaft out of the tail end of the tranny, there will be a white mark on the tailshaft, I used a marker and made a corresponding mark on the driveshaft so I could line this end up also. Be careful when pulling the driveshaft out of the tranny, you don't want to damage that rubber seal.
Now you can put the gas tank back up. And theres still a lot more to do before you can lower the tranny.
If you haven't already you need to drain the fluid out of the transmission, and torque converter. A-Train's writeup in the tranny tech articles covers how to do this. This is also a great time to do the custom shift kit from the tech articles.
All the electrical connections on the tranny need to come off, on the drivers side there are two connectors that look the same, make sure you remember which ones go where. You will also need to undo the shifter cable and the mounting bracket.
The starter need to be removed as well. Theres 3 bolts that hold it in, and the top one is the worst. I have heard people say they only used the bottom 2 bolts when they put it back in, and that it holds fine.
The fill tube for the tranny needs to come out, theres a bolt on the back of the passengerside head that holds it in place. You also need to undo the cooler lines.
Next would be the access cover at the front of the tranny. Theres 2 bolts for that. Once you have it off, you can undo the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. You can use an 18mm socket on the crankshaft pulley to rotate the torque converter to get to all the bolts, theres 4 of them. Make sure you only rotate it clockwise.
Now put a tranny jack in place. I recomend using a good one, if you don't have one rent it. Make sure you can adjust it to tilt forward and back. On a '96 up car you can get to the top two transmission bolts from the engine bay, they are behind the intake. For a '94-'95 car you will not be able to get to the top tranny bolts from the engine bay. To get to them, undo the crossmember bolts and lower the back end of the tranny a bit and use a couple of long extensions to reach up to the top 2 tranny bolts. I tried using a wrench on them and I don't think theres any other way to get to them. Now raise the tranny back up and loosen the remaining 5 bolts (3 on the drivers side and 2 on the passanger side). Before removing the tranny from the engine, place a jack stand under the oilpan to keep the engine from hanging down too far and breaking something.
When you seperate the engine and tranny, make sure to watch the torque converter so it doesn't fall out and damage anything. Now put the new one in, and make sure its seated all the way in. I don't know if your converter came with any marks or instructions for alignment, but if it did, use them. Raise the tranny back up and line up the bolts with the flexplate. Align the tranny on the engine dowels, and insert those two bolts. Hand tighten them and make sure the torque converter bolts are still lined up in the flexplate holes, and that nothing is bound. Check to see if you can still turn the crankshaft. Now go back and tighten the two bolts all the way, and then recheck that you can still turn the crankshaft. I had problems with everythign binding up untill I did it the way I just described. Now use new torque converter nuts to attach it to the flexplate. Now you can go and put the rest of the tranny bolts back in, and check once more that you can turn the crankshaft.
Now you can put everything back in the way you took it out. Make sure you align the driveshaft using those marks so that it stays balanced, otherwise you'll have a nasty vibration. I also used loctite on the driveshaft bolts to make sure they wouldn't fall out.
I will lift my car up tommorow to check the bolt sizes and make a list of tools used.