Checking EEC-IV Engine Codes Yourself. - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-10-2004, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Checking EEC-IV Engine Codes Yourself.

You pull that little "EEC TEST" box out from behind the shock tower as noted by the little red rectangle. You pull out the two wiring harnesses, one bigger than the other, and you put the paperclip into those two squares on the bottom picture. They're actually slots for wires but a paperclip works perfectly fine. Next you go into your car and turn the key forward just enough so all the electricals come on but don't crank the engine over. You'll hear some buzzing noise in the back of your car, this is normal (fuel pump). Next you'll see the little "Check Engine" light blink on your gauge cluster. this means it's gone into check eec mode. Next your codes will come out. Have a pen and paper ready because once they show up they're erased and you'll have to throw a code again before it's checkable. So the engine light will blink out the numbers to you. It's kind of like morse code for numbers. It'll go something like this: blink 3 times, wait 2 seconds, blink 2 times, wait 2 seconds, blink 4 times. This means you've thrown a code 324. Then if you have more codes it'll wait about 6 seconds and repeat the morse code stuff for the next code number. Once all the blinking stops it's run it's cycle and all the codes have been read.



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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-10-2004, 04:12 PM
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this should be sticky, very useful, good job Thomas!

i knew this could be done but didn't know what to do it on a ford, had just done it the other day on my friend's slowmaro.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2004, 11:43 AM
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Don't forget about the first pulses that identify the engine.1 pulse=3cyl 2pulse=4cyl 3pulse=6cyl 4pulse= v8
there is also a sinlge pulse that seperates primary codes from memory codes. Don't let that stuff give you a funny number.
I found a nice online site that gives code meanings.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/codes.htm

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2004, 11:59 AM
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Or just go spend $35 on a code reader. Sorry. The most important test to me is KOER. I get more dangerous codes that way then the KOEO test. Which is what you have shown to do. I'm not trying to argue or be better or anything.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2004, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bad93bird
Or just go spend $35 on a code reader. Sorry. The most important test to me is KOER. I get more dangerous codes that way then the KOEO test. Which is what you have shown to do. I'm not trying to argue or be better or anything.
Why pay for a code reader? I had one I sold for $5 because I prefer the old trusty method. KOEO only shows hard faults the memory is where you find the tricky stuff.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2004, 07:12 PM
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I want to do this to read the codes on mine. I just can not find this harness.I see the wires in a black plastic strip that lead to behind the tower and I see a big wiring harness with a lot of wires to it and a bolted cover on it.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2004, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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funny fingers. You do not have an EEC-IV, you have the newer EEC-V which requires a $200 something OBD-II code reader. Sorry Autozone can check the codes for you for free though, if you have one nearby where you live. The diagnostic port for the EEC-V is under the glove box in the passenger compartment.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2004, 07:40 PM
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Ok thanks. I do go to Autozone but it is the furthest shop from me. Great info though
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 12:47 PM
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Thank you for the info, I can do this on obd1 gms.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 07:45 AM
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I will like to learn how to check codes but I going to need someone to retake the EEC Box picture again so I know what to look for. I wonder if this will help to address the blinking air bag message.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 08:55 AM
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Agueybana,

This thread is for scanning codes that are EEC IV, you need an EEC V scanner.

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