How to convert your oil pressure gauge (with pics) - Page 7 - TCCoA Forums
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post #181 of 209 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_Florida View Post
Glad to see this post still is useful.

@nail_one: The reason Ford decided to make a dummy gauge was thought to be because people just didn't know how to properly read a real gauge. They were bringing their cars in to be checked based on a gauge that would vary widely depending on the temperature of the oil. Every service call cost Ford money. And as we know, money is the bottom line so Ford installed a dummy gauge that read 'normal' as long as there is more than 7psi in the line.
Wow... I read through each and every post to see if someone would finally come up with that.

I did the mod on my first 3.8 about 2002. And before that on several mustangs, but hardly had to buy a sender just recycled em.

Well everything has been covered that was on the Alt....Ford newsgroup except one thing.

With the dummy switch, if you have an oil pressure problem, the needle will still drop to some intermediate level even with the switch because the pressure will be intermittent tripping the switch so the needle will reflect the average of the on/off voltage. And of course the light will flicker.

So to summarize:
* A gauge sender is big {because it has a diaphragm operated var resistor} more like a 'can' with a pipe nipple than the pressure switch which looks like the other switches in the coolant lines, etc.
*If the can wont fit where the switch is, it's a plumbing job. Use brass fittings and teflon tape, make sure everything clears.
* On the two 88 mustangs I did the resistor was in the line, pretty sure it's behind the cluster from at least 91 on but, first, look for the lump in the wire, tracing back from the sender on earliers
* When soldering, dont use a pen torch, use a 25-40 watt iron or small gun. Use electrical solder- rosin core flux , NOT acid core! Once iron is hot, clean and tin the iron tip before trying to solder the wire.
*ANY gauge copper wire you can handle - example doorbell wire- will work. Not that much current through there.
There's no need to move or cut the resistor.

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post #182 of 209 (permalink) Old 11-01-2011, 01:58 AM
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ya know, i did some more research on this, and got some info from a class my father went to for common ford problems, and one of them was the idiot senders still showing oil pressure when the flow was WAAAAY down(either from pumps wearing out, or the pickups plugged with plastic guide chunks, etc), so ford has been having issues with motors blowing because as far as the owner knows, everything working OK till the bearings lock up in the lower end >.> which is exactly what caused the motor swap in my uncles 98 F150... i guess fords excuse actually was that they wanted all the gauges uniform... all lined up in the middle and unmoving... and as someone with OCD i can understand that to a point, but come on people!?! that's just dumb right their...i for one love to see that needle move when I'm revving

still glad i fixed mine, and if i get the chance, I'm gonna do the same to my uncles F150...(still got to change the bulbs in their... hes got like 1 on the speedo working >.>) just got to figure out what I'm gonna do about the 'plug' on the sender instead of the little rubber elbow you poke on the stud. guess ill just have to cut it off and get the older elbow connector. unless theirs a newer plug style sweep-gauge sender out their somewhere 'shrug' doesn't help its gonna be a supper tight fit between the oil cooler/relocation thing.

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post #183 of 209 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 05:30 PM
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I´d like to do it on my 5.0 and need pictures... Will a simple Brass Pipe 45 Deg 1/4 NPT be enough for it?

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post #184 of 209 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 07:48 PM
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I´d like to do it on my 5.0 and need pictures... Will a simple Brass Pipe 45 Deg 1/4 NPT be enough for it?
I think so, but you may also need an all-thread 1/4 and a female/female 1/4 NPT.

I'm planning to do this when I do (or get done!) the motor mounts.

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post #185 of 209 (permalink) Old 04-04-2012, 09:27 PM
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Done on my 5.0. Really a pain... I bought one of these parts and wished to have small hands (Brass Pipe 45 Deg Street Elbow Fitting 1/4 NPT Fuel Air http://www.ebay.com/itm/190538542203...84.m1439.l2649). --> You must rotate until almost the end, otherwise the eletrical wire will not achieve the oil pressure gauge and be fast, because the oil is leaking...

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post #186 of 209 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Good job! :-)

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post #187 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-18-2012, 08:10 PM
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Borg Warner part number S334 works. I also went to an advance auto looking for one for a 87 tbird with a 5.0 and they showed 3 different ones. They all looked like the factory 94 4.6 idiot one. My 94 resistor was behind the cluster as well.

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post #188 of 209 (permalink) Old 02-03-2013, 10:29 PM
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Rockauto lists the motorcraft SW1547B for all Tbirds from 89-96. Guess this isn't really considered a "mod" then, more of an option...

I've tried the BWD S334 on an Explorer and was not happy with the readings, it was floating all over the place. Returned it, got the MC one. The Motorcraft works great, readings follow acceleration perfectly around the oil can symbol. I do have an S334 on the bird, it works but not as responsive as the one in the Explorer. The BWD is also showing signs of bad rust, probably going to be replacing it soon. The Motorcraft one is proudly engraved with patent 4,079,351. Pretty ingenious device!

I can say that they two parts are not identical(they are close, but no way identical) in size and even appearance if you look closely.

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post #189 of 209 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the update. One year bump.

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post #190 of 209 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 12:30 AM
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LOL damn I'm lazy I still haven't done this, bought the parts 2+ years ago.

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post #191 of 209 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 07:07 PM
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Just looked up in 90SC wiring and it shows the resistor and a 6psi oil swich. This is from my ford 90 tbird wiring manual. It also shows the resistor on the back of the gauge. Checked the 89 manual it shows the same.
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post #192 of 209 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 04:41 PM
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Did this on my '93 SC, need to do it on my '99 F250 V10.
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post #193 of 209 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 10:54 PM
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PS line bracket *[email protected]$*

[sorry about the late bump, but it seemed like good information to add for any late/new thunderbird owners]

well i just did this on my 94 thunderbird LX - V8 4.6

I think if i would have read through all the threads, i would have probably considered the elbow. I couldn't really get the oil sender socket in because of a protector/bracket over the power steering line. I used the box end of the 1 1/16 wrench (mentioned in like the first part of the post) to get it lose.

Then I couldn't get the new bigger sender in, because of the bracket. i had to use a 8mm socket to get the bolt off, and a straight screw driver to pry it lose.

I was then able to get the sender in finger tight. And i did get a little oil around. Not a lot. But i did have the driver side front on a jackstand so i could fit under the car.

I tried to get that bracket back on, but it has this little grove on the end, just when I thought i was going to get it back in, i got it caught on the sender screw. And after a little bit, i decided to just leave it off. I didn't want to mess up the sender, or risk cracking the oil filter assembly.
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post #194 of 209 (permalink) Old 05-07-2015, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalgreasemonkey View Post
[sorry about the late bump, but it seemed like good information to add for any late/new thunderbird owners]

well i just did this on my 94 thunderbird LX - V8 4.6

I think if i would have read through all the threads, i would have probably considered the elbow. I couldn't really get the oil sender socket in because of a protector/bracket over the power steering line. I used the box end of the 1 1/16 wrench (mentioned in like the first part of the post) to get it lose.

Then I couldn't get the new bigger sender in, because of the bracket. i had to use a 8mm socket to get the bolt off, and a straight screw driver to pry it lose.

I was then able to get the sender in finger tight. And i did get a little oil around. Not a lot. But i did have the driver side front on a jackstand so i could fit under the car.

I tried to get that bracket back on, but it has this little grove on the end, just when I thought i was going to get it back in, i got it caught on the sender screw. And after a little bit, i decided to just leave it off. I didn't want to mess up the sender, or risk cracking the oil filter assembly.
Is the '94-'95 V-8 set up differently than the' 97 V-8 is? I just did the conversion to my '97 T-Bird to install the' 94-'96 style instrument cluster in it, and I modified my oil pressure gauge per the instructions in this thread. I really had no difficulty such as you've described replacing my oil pressure switch with the bigger oil pressure sending unit. I wouldn't say it was super easy getting a wrench on the oil pressure sending unit to tighten it, but I had no such bracket you spoke of in the way, nor anything else I had to remove. So, I'm just wondering if the '94-'95 T-Birds/Cougars (and, maybe the 1996's, too) are different in some way from my' 97.

Or, if my '97 is MISSING something it's supposed to have, LOL!

Dennis
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post #195 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 01:09 AM
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I hate to bump an old thread, but I'll be doing this conversion soon as part of a cluster swap (3 gauge base to 6 gauge sport) and I have a question. I'm pretty clear on everything but the fitting size needed to allow the new sender to clear other accessories. I have the Echlin unit from NAPA which has a 1/2" threaded connector, but the posts that mention the plumbing fittings all say to get 1/4". Is this a mistake or are there differences in sizes among the various brands of senders?

I've seen pics like this one, where the sender's threaded fitting matches mine as well as the old switch, so I'm a bit confused. Is the threaded part of the old switch 1/4" or 1/2"? My car is a 3.8 N/A.

ETA another question. How does the VMM get it's input? Will removing the stock switch affect it?
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post #196 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 04:45 AM
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Would it be possible to re-link or provide new pics for this swap? I read all the way through the thread and most of the pics from 10+ years ago are gone.

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post #197 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 05:12 AM
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I sent Al a PM to see if he could update the pictures.

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post #198 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 01:08 PM
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I can’t specifically answer your question about the fittings, but the 89-93 VMM just uses a separate level sensor on the oil pan for its info, not the pressure switch input for the dummy light/gauge.


Frustratingly I intended to update the dead pics or make a new tech thread with my own during my engine swap but that obviously didn’t happen. Only pic I snapped during the conversion was the resistor jumper on the back of the cluster
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post #199 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderbird Pilot 89 View Post
... I'm pretty clear on everything but the fitting size needed to allow the new sender to clear other accessories. I have the Echlin unit from NAPA which has a 1/2" threaded connector, but the posts that mention the plumbing fittings all say to get 1/4". Is this a mistake or are there differences in sizes among the various brands of senders?
...
If the connections are the same size, you probably only need a 90 degree elbow in that size; that's what I needed for my 4.6l.

The analog sender is huge, and there's not much room there; it also needs to have room to move slightly with the engine, or it will hit something and loosen up, leaking oil.

If they're different sizes, take both to Home Depot or Lowes, and find a brass fitting that will adapt the two sizes together.

They've never had problems with me walking in with a handful of hardware to fit up.
If it's new hardware of the non-car variety, walk up to the customer service counter, and explain what you're doing; it will save shoplifting accusations later.

IIRC, the fittings are 1/4" NPT, which measures about 3/8"OD; pipe stuff goes by ID, not OD.

Make sure there are no trapped air bubbles, as it will make the readings iffy.

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post #200 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 02:49 PM
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I can’t specifically answer your question about the fittings, but the 89-93 VMM just uses a separate level sensor on the oil pan for its info, not the pressure switch input for the dummy light/gauge.
Thanks! Good to know I won't lose the VMM when I do this.


Quote:
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If the connections are the same size, you probably only need a 90 degree elbow in that size; that's what I needed for my 4.6l.

The analog sender is huge, and there's not much room there; it also needs to have room to move slightly with the engine, or it will hit something and loosen up, leaking oil.

If they're different sizes, take both to Home Depot or Lowes, and find a brass fitting that will adapt the two sizes together.
Thanks. I intend to take them in for a good fit, I do that all the time also. So you're saying the stock switch is 1/4"? So I'll need to go from 1/4 to 1/2 to fit my sender.

As for the pictures, I don't know why they aren't showing up but a save pictures extension for Chrome was able to get most of them. Here are the ones I managed to save.

Original post:




















and Aaron K.'s pic from post 118:
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post #201 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 04:52 PM
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Great! I added them into the original post

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post #202 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:31 PM
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Great job guys!

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post #203 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:15 AM
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Are there sending units with different ranges? I ask because this mod uses a 60psi max sensor, yes? When my mechanic was going through my motor (new water pump, headers) I was thinking of replacing the oil pump at the same time and he said I didn't want to do that unless I was prepared to basically rebuild the whole motor due to what an ordeal it would be to get to the pump and swap it out (disassembled so much, might as well finish the job). He checked the oil pressure and said it was strong and it was 80psi. So wouldn't it be better to get a sending unit that could read above 60psi? Or maybe it doesn't matter since the gauge face doesn't have numbers, just L and H?

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post #204 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:51 AM
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Are there sending units with different ranges? I ask because this mod uses a 60psi max sensor, yes?
I got my sender from NAPA and the site says it's 100psi, though the unit itself is stamped with 90 on the HEX portion of the threads.

Of course the site also says it's 1/4" thread size which is clearly wrong, mine is 1/2"
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post #205 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 02:27 PM
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I got my sender from NAPA and the site says it's 100psi, though the unit itself is stamped with 90 on the HEX portion of the threads.

Of course the site also says it's 1/4" thread size which is clearly wrong, mine is 1/2"
Oh, ok, I just remember somewhere in the thread someone talking about a 90psi sending unit that he thought was the reason that the gauge was reading too low at certain points and maybe setting off a warning light or whatever. When I do this I'll probably go with the Motorcraft unit that doesn't need an adapter but I was curious if having one that reads up to 90psi was possible or recommended.

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post #206 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 08:22 PM
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Oh, ok, I just remember somewhere in the thread someone talking about a 90psi sending unit that he thought was the reason that the gauge was reading too low at certain points and maybe setting off a warning light or whatever. When I do this I'll probably go with the Motorcraft unit that doesn't need an adapter but I was curious if having one that reads up to 90psi was possible or recommended.
I don't know if it matters. I figure 30psi is 30psi, it shouldn't matter if a sensor reads to 60, 90 or 300. And the Motorcraft is physically the same size and proportion as any of the others, if they need an adapter it will also.

I'm still confused about the thread sizes though. I saw a post on a truck forum where the guy has the same NAPA sender I have, and yet he also says he used a 1/4" threaded adapter.
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post #207 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 11:34 AM
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Measure it with a tape; the sizes aren't that close:

Note that a 1/4" male NPT is over 1/2" in outside diameter.

They're tapered, so the nominal size is halfway up the threads, iirc.

Pipe stuff is INSIDE diameter size. (these gages have tiny holes, but if you look at a fitting, you'll see what I mean.)

The temperature sender on the intake is 1/2" npt; it's over 3/4" diameter.



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post #208 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 05:29 PM
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I think I get it now (I can be slow sometimes ). The passage through the fitting is 1/4", not the threads. Got it now.

I took a look at the oil switch from under the hood today, just to see how much space there is around it, and the damn wire isn't connected! Might explain why I've never seen the oil light come on, fortunately I've never had an oil related issue. I assume the wire is hanging loose under there somewhere.
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post #209 of 209 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 06:08 PM
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Pipe threads fucked me up too; I never really had to think about it until I had to tap the intake for another sensor.

I was really having a problem buying the tap and drill bit online, until I stopped at an old hardware store in Maryville, where dude told me about the ID vs OD thing.

Then it makes perfect sense, lol.

$20 bux worth of shit later, I had a PI intake working.

There's at least three types of pipe threads on our cars, the fittings on the tranny do not have a taper, and are British straight threads (BST), for some fucking reason.

There's another spot that's Straight threads, but american, so wtf. I can't remember at the moment where.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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