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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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NX dry kit

Will one work that is off of a 98 gt?

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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-29-2004, 07:28 PM
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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-02-2005, 05:48 PM
 
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I was told that NX doesn't make a dry kit.
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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-02-2005, 06:24 PM
 
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NX does (or did, can't seem to find it listed anymore) have a dry system available. Not sure on how it would be set up though, as I never looked at it personnally or have had onyone with one around. I don't think it came with a way of it adjusting the fuel pressure like the ZEX kit, so making sure you didn't run lean would mean lots of time on the dyno getting it just right.
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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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What I actually thought that I was looking at turned out to be a zex dry kit for a mustang. I have to wait for bidding to end. But right now I am just looking for something that will hold me over until I can get the extra cash it will take to do everything I wanted. Nitrous could be a big part of it. Since everyone seems to have great success with there zex kits I shouldn't be worried aobut using one in my engine.

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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:49 AM
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yea the zex kit is great. part # 82015 is the one that works best on our cars. you wont be dissappointed.

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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I am just looking for a good deal on them. The cheapest I have found was like 480.00 shipped and that is just for the basic kit. No bottle gauge or purge.

Sprtnlax14: i was was up at 4:30 to hunt
LtlLinds424: you did NOT just say hunt
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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 05:11 PM
 
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Where have you seen it for $480.00? The only problem is that I can't install it and I don't know where to take my car to have the nitrous put on. A purge kit is just for show isn't it?
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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To be the quickest off the line, your nitrous system must deliver pure liquid nitrous from the first instant. A Nitrous Purge Kit will clear unwanted vapor out of the system to assure rocket-like starts, essential for beating the competition off the line. A purge kit will use a solenoid and delivery system to create the "snow machine" effect every racer wants.

A Nitrous Purge Kit is essential for squeezing the vapor out of your system, keeping it ultra efficient. Though a nitrous system can operate without one, it can never do so at peak performance. In fact, without a decent purge kit, you can never be a major-league racer.

From article insider.com.

They are on ebay all the time as by it nows and most of them are new. Check it out.

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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 06:01 PM
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or you can use the el cheapo purge kit like me. hit the nitrous while your doing your burnout and that will clear out all the crap before you take off. and as for finding a cheap set-up, try either ebay or corral.net. i got mine off of ebay with a bottle heater and pressure gauge for like $320.
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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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The one that I was bidding on went way out of my price range. Like all the way to 560.

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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 06:25 PM
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heres a decent one: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=589665

im sure if you search more over on corral you might be able to find one cheaper/ has more stuff.
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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I actually just sent him an offer. I was looking a corral and never found this

Sprtnlax14: i was was up at 4:30 to hunt
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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 07:13 PM
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u can find them on corral, modular depot, or ebay for around $300-$350 used. new you can find them on ebay for around $475 or summitracing.xcom for $509. i got mine from summit. a purge kit and bottle heater are neccessary to get the best performance out of your nitrous set up. a heater is the most important though. like ford fanatic said, if you dont want to spend the extra cash on the purge just make sure you go wot for a second in your burnout. i wouldnt recoomend doing the whole burnout on nitrous though.

MadeinDade, a purge kit isnt just for show although thats reason ost people have them. also the zex nitrous kit is extremely easy to install. all you need is a drill, some sockets and a ratchet. i've never installed a nitrous kit before and we got mine done in about 4 hours. also, your from NC, there are tons of active tccoa members intaht area that i'm sure would be willing to help you out. trust me, the zex kit is idiot proof.

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1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 - 13.7 @ 103
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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I thinkt that with the bottle heater I would be worried about forgetting to turn it off and having a big boom!! from outside by or should I say in my car. I think that I remeber seeing pictures on here of a guy who did just that and his car was in his garage.

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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 07:26 PM
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i believe all bottle heater (i know the zex one) will shut off before it goes boom. the zex heater is just like a thermostat, it turns on at x degrees and turns off at y degrees. a heater is really a necessity to keep the bottle pressure where its supposed to be. the purge kit is nice to have if you have the money, but you can get by the ghetto way like me (and im too lazy to wire up the switch),
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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well we will have to wait and see what the guy on corral says. Then should I be concerned about a tune. I am only planning on running a 75 shot to be safe and ensure that I can make everything last on my car until I have the new motor being built. I haven't read to much about the tuning aspect and what octane rating, etc.

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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 07:44 PM
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im running 50 shot without a nitrous tune, i dont know about 75 though. that might be pushing it. as for upgrades, everyone recommends the following for anything over 75: adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge, 255lph fuel pump, and nitrous tune. and you'll definitly want to run premium when you plan on hitting the juice, or you might be looking for a new motor. read up in the nitrous section and you'll see a couple of guys that have done just that.
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 09:02 PM
 
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Wow! I learn so much on these forums. So how much extra would a bottle heater and a purge kit cost for a Zex setup? I'm looking at this more seriously now that I know more about it and how to get it for less money.

Oh and by the way tomorrow I will officially be a TCCoA member.
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 09:49 PM
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Bottle heaters and purge kits can be had for around $85-$115 each depending on where u get it.

Like ford fanaatic was saying, a bottle heater is really a neccessity to get optimum performance from the nitrous kit. optimum pressure is 950-1100 psi. on a cold day without a heater bottle pressure will sometimes drop below 500 psi which means if your runnign a 75 shot, you wont actually be getting 75 horsepower.

there is 3 different types of heaters; temperature regulated, pressure regulated and unregulated.

temperature regulated heaters (such as zex) will keep the bottle a cosistent temperature regardless of bottle pressure. it will only heat up to 85* even if the bottle hasnt reach your desired pressure. these are the most incosistent of the three types due to pressure variances with the outside temperature. second most expensive.

pressure regulated heaters (such as nx) will regulate bottle pressure by keeping it at a given pressure. it might be regulated to 1100 psi so it will continue to heat the bottle, regardless of temperature, until it reaches 1100 psi. These are the best type of heaters because they give you the pressure you want all the time and they're safe unlike unregulated heaters. most expensive.

unregulated heaters will give you whatever pressure you want. you have to keep an eye on the gauge all the time though. this is the type of heater you hear about that causes things to go boom. this heater does the job well but is the most unsafe of the three. cheapest.

i have the zex heater and the highest my pressure has ever gotten is to 900 but its usually aroun 800-850, whichy isnt really to good. i wouldnt recommend this heater. i wish i had this information avaiable to me before i bought a heater because i would have bought a pressure regulated one.

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2003 Mustang Cobra 10th Anniversary - 11.2 @ 130
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 - 13.7 @ 103
1993 Thunderbird LX 3.8 - Slow
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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:01 PM
 
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Alright, I've been looking on Ebay and it looks like the bottle heater will run about $115, and the purge kit about $100. Now I just read something about a remote bottle opener. I guess I will need this if my bottle is in the trunk, huh? And that looks like it will be another $200. This stuff adds up quick, but if I could get someone in the NC area to help me install it, I 'd be willing to pay that much for the kit.
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadeInDade
Alright, I've been looking on Ebay and it looks like the bottle heater will run about $115, and the purge kit about $100. Now I just read something about a remote bottle opener. I guess I will need this if my bottle is in the trunk, huh? And that looks like it will be another $200. This stuff adds up quick, but if I could get someone in the NC area to help me install it, I 'd be willing to pay that much for the kit.

yea a remote bottle opener would be cool, but for $200 i'll get out and walk to the trunk to open it. or just leave it open if i know i'm going out cruising just in case anything pops up that i want to race.

Frank

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2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000

Previous Rides:
2003 Suzuki GSX-R750
2003 Mustang Cobra 10th Anniversary - 11.2 @ 130
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 - 13.7 @ 103
1993 Thunderbird LX 3.8 - Slow
1990 Thunderbird 3.8 - Slower
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:09 PM
 
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So what happens if you leave the bottle open and end up not "hitting the switch"? Can you just go close it later and everything will be alright? And can I put a NX pressure regulated heater on a Zex bottle?
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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadeInDade
So what happens if you leave the bottle open and end up not "hitting the switch"? Can you just go close it later and everything will be alright?
yup. i usually just go close it and then purge the left over nitrous vapors out of the lines to keep them clean and clear.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MadeInDade
And can I put a NX pressure regulated heater on a Zex bottle?
yes. most nitrous stuff is interchangeable. i use a nos purge kit with my set up becuase it was $20 cheaper than the zex one. like i said, if i had know about the different types of heaters, i would have a nx heater instead of a zex heater right now. i still plan to switch eventually.

Frank

2007 Dodge Ram 1500
2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000

Previous Rides:
2003 Suzuki GSX-R750
2003 Mustang Cobra 10th Anniversary - 11.2 @ 130
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 - 13.7 @ 103
1993 Thunderbird LX 3.8 - Slow
1990 Thunderbird 3.8 - Slower
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 10:51 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFanatic
im running 50 shot without a nitrous tune, i dont know about 75 though. that might be pushing it. as for upgrades, everyone recommends the following for anything over 75: adjustable fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge, 255lph fuel pump, and nitrous tune. and you'll definitly want to run premium when you plan on hitting the juice, or you might be looking for a new motor. read up in the nitrous section and you'll see a couple of guys that have done just that.
Just to add to this...I'm running a 75 shot on my stock bottom end (136K). I've got a 255 pump and 24# injectors (for the heads, but this helps anyway) And 2 good nitrous tunes (one pulls 3* and one pulls 6* IIRC) I only run 92 or 93 oct gas at all times in my car (this is to get away with running 6* advanced n/a) I also have an afpr, although I haven't had to adjust it for running the juice (yet) It is set at 40 psi. With that setup and the 75 shot, I netted about 60 rwhp (no bottle heater) so you can see where the extra fuel requirements come in.

Joe
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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-04-2005, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Here is what I got, need a tune, don't actually need a purge just a slick way to do it, should have a bottle heater. I wonder how much the shop would charge to dyno tune the car.

Anyways does anyone have any really good pictures of there complete install from the trunk to the engine?

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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-04-2005, 05:40 AM
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-04-2005, 08:54 AM
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Some Information!

The ZEX kit is very reliable and consistent. Its easy to install and safe as long as you use it correctly.

It is engineered to run on 93 Octane pump gas. If you plan to beat on it all day at the track then I suggest using a higher grade of fuel to do that as a safety margin. Optimum pressure on the system is 1000-1050 PSI. The system works off of bottle pressure, so it will work only as well as the pressure in the bottle. As some have mentioned, it is good to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, High flow fuel pump. I'd recommend it from the start, but definately after the 75 HP shot, when you are planning to move up.

If all is good, the car should safely take up to 75 HP on the stock set-up.

The bottle heater issue depends on what you want and all the choices have been stated previously in this post. There are also vendors out there with very good ones as well. I purchased mine from ARC www.archeat.com and it works very well. I had the ZEX one and it just didn't cut it when it started getting chilly out.

Another point I want to make is that you can run the 75 shot without the aftermarket tune. Anything over that though and you should have it tuned accordingly.

Be prepared to buy tires if you plan to run at the strip. As most have learned here and I have relayed many times, If you want to run quick you need traction. With nitrous, there is NO traction. Hook it and you'll have barrels of fun.

As far as the PIC in question, I have seen it and it is my understanding that the car was in a garage, bottle heater on, discs had been changed, "Not properly, I might add", and additional discs added. That did not allow for the pop off valve to work. Hopefully, everyone here knows better than that. Also, on a hot day don't leave it set in direct sunlight. Just some things to consider.

I have run the exact system going on 6 years now and safely I might add. Most all of those were on the stock engine. I have since run it on a stock T-bird shortblock and "Bullitt" motor with no ill affects to date.

But understand as with any power adder, that if things are not optimum or something out of the ordinary happens, you are at risk of losing a motor. The word is caution and awareness of what you are doing and using it wisely. As I've told others, you beat on it with nitrous, and it will beat on your pocketbook.

Good luck with your set-up, enjoy it, and use it wisely.

Steve
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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-04-2005, 10:21 AM
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Do you use vacum lines on the ZEX Dry kit??? A friend asked me that..


PhotobucketNitrous and boost go together like peanut butter and jellyPhotobucket


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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-04-2005, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
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Do you use vacum lines on the ZEX Dry kit??? A friend asked me that..
yea. you can see the vaccum lines in the pics in my thread that ford fanatic posted a link to. you basically just have to run the zex nmu in line with the fuel pressure regulator. thats how its able to call for more fuel when your using the nitrous.

Frank

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2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000

Previous Rides:
2003 Suzuki GSX-R750
2003 Mustang Cobra 10th Anniversary - 11.2 @ 130
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 - 13.7 @ 103
1993 Thunderbird LX 3.8 - Slow
1990 Thunderbird 3.8 - Slower
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