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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Nitrous Wiring

Question regarding the wiring of nitrous systems here. I want to place all my switches (arming, heater, and purge) in my center console. I currently only have the arming switch wired up there, nothing else is wired. I would also like to wire a power switch to override all three switches (ie, the power switch has to be on for the others to work). What size switched am I going to need to do this, how do wire something like this up, and where should I run the power from? I am assuming the power should come right from the battery for ease. Right now, my arming switch is simply tapped into my cig lighter power line. Will 30 amp swiched be fine? Too much or too little? I'll probably be doing this in a couple weeks, so I'd like to get everything I need pretty soon. Thanks

Joe
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 10:02 PM
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Best thing to do when you want to switch something is to use a relay. Use a switch to power the coils on the relay and the contacts of the relay will switch the load. The coil of the relay uses little current. This way you are not in any danger of melting your switch. You can also use a smaller rated (and most likely nicer looking) toggle switch. The power for the contacts comes directly from the battery and I added an inline fuse.

I'm doing something similar in that I tapped the anti-lock brakes fuse since I don't have ABS, that is hot when the key is on (run). This will close the contacts of a relay which sends main power to the bank of switches/relays for my nitrous setup. In this way, I can still switch the controller, heater and purge but it all goes dead when the key is off.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Al, that clears some of my questions up, but also added a few. You wouldn't want to sketch up a little pic from a power source to a master power switch and then to 3 switches. I know basics of wiring things up, but not too far past that. I figured some relays and fuses would come into play, but didn't know how big or where they'd go. And I'd like to do it right the first time and not have things melt down. Thanks

Joe
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 11:47 PM
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I whipped this up. It's not perfect but should give you an idea:



85 and 86 on relays are for the coil. 30 is the common contact and 87/87a are the contact tips for the relay. 87a would have +12v when the coils are de-energized. 87 will have +12v when the coils are energized. Fuse ratings are just for show. I don't know off hand what the heater draws though. So plan accordingly. The relays are 40amp P&Bs.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 12:07 AM
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The first relay could be considered overkill. You could remove the first relay and just run the "Hot on run" to the other relays.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_Florida
The first relay could be considered overkill. You could remove the first relay and just run the "Hot on run" to the other relays.
Well when you have a few thousand relays sitting on your shelf you find ways to use them !

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 01:03 AM
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hell yeah. I have more relays than tapcons.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
 
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That is good. Thanks for the help. It's much appreciated.

Joe
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