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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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anyone seen this style or used it

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/...ularPlate.htm#

Has anyone here tried this kit? Im thinking about going with this kit but a little concerned about hood clearance. I don't think it will add too much but I don't know how much space there is to begin with.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 08:12 AM
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the plate in the pic looks like it would only work on the mustang style intake not the early 94-95 style.
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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If I get it it's going on a 97.
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 09:49 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97qwikcat
If I get it it's going on a 97.
Hood clearance should not be a problem if the spacer is less than 3/4 "'s THe problem maybe in getting the EGR tube reconnected Did you download the instructions ??
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm thinking about just getting rid of the egr system. I tried to download the instructions and there going real slow. still waiting ok I got the instructions and they dont say much except how to install the plate which is easy.

Last edited by 97qwikcat; 03-21-2006 at 06:19 AM.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 06:29 AM
 
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:bump:

did you end up going with this kit? i'm curious about hood clearance.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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im still debating. Im a little confused on it though I thought dry kit's didn't add fuel. but on that plate it has a fitting for fuel.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 08:15 AM
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i didnt see where it says it is a dry kit, but your could always cap off the fuel fitting and adjust the nitrous jets and solenoids accordingly.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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im assuming that aint hard to do to adjust the solenoids. Now the installation instructions don't say **** for me. How does the solenids get fuel anyway if it is a dry kit?
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 08:40 AM
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Listen, you have to add fuel with that sytem. That mounts at the throttle body, which means you're introducing the nitrous to the airstream AFTER the main mixture dictating sensor (the MAF). The car has no way to respond to the addition of the nitrous by increasing injector pulse width. You'll be way lean and grenade that motor if you don't add sufficient fuel along with the nitrous. Please, run a fuel line to it!

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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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ok I understand that!! So that fuel line would go from the solenoid to the plate right. Where does it come from to go to the solenoid?
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 09:08 AM
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Well, I'm no expert, but most people pull right off the fuel rail to feed the solenoid. You'll have to make sure you've got a larger pump to handle the additional fuel demand.

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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-05-2006, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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yup I just got my 255lph pump in the mail last week.
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 01:23 PM
 
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you can get fittings to tap into the test port on the fuel rail, all you do is unthread the schraeder valve and there ya go. i belive it's a 1/16" NPT, which is almost impossible to find in your standard hardware store. however, most of the major aftermarket suppliers that deal with nitrous stuff carry what you'll need.

so you've got a fuel line from your fuel rail, to the solenoid, and another from the solenoid to your nozzle (or plate in this case).
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok now I got a valve here at my work that threads on to the fuel rail. and another fitting to go on the braided steel line will that work?
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 03:36 PM
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Getting back to the clearance. It should fit without a problem. I've got a spacer (1/2" I believe) and it fit without any problems from the hood or EGR. (Well, the EGR was close, but I managed it).


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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-07-2006, 06:44 PM
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umm thats NOT A DRY KIT, IT IS A WET KIT!!!!

you get your fuel from the shrader valve on the fuel rail on front of dr side rail. remove the fitting thats in there, replace it with a 1/4" to -4an line fitting and put the fuel line from the kit on there and the other end to the fuel solenoid.

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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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ok but I thought that wet kit's already had fuel in the bottle and didnt need to get fuel from the rail.

I see what your saying about it being wet cause it adds fuel, now another question since this is a wet kit. Am I gonna have to worry about hitting it too soon and having it puddle and then blow up? In other words would this kit at 150 shot be alright on my engine?

I just don't want to buy this kit and then have it bite me in the a$$ ya know.
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok do I'm willing to say that this is gonna pose some trouble I talked with a guy from NX and the plate is .754" thick. If I delete the Egr system will that pose a problem? I dont think it will after I get it tuned and deleted.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 02:48 PM
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I have no EGR. Not a problem, as long as you turn it off with the tune, otherwise, you get a MIL.

Also, use an RPM Window switch so that the nitrous system is only active between set RPM's. I would also use a WOT switch, but that's me. I also strongly suggest using a pressure switch where you tap the fuel rail, so that if for whatever reason you lose fuel pressure, the nitrous is cutoff.

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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97qwikcat
ok but I thought that wet kit's already had fuel in the bottle and didnt need to get fuel from the rail.

I see what your saying about it being wet cause it adds fuel, now another question since this is a wet kit. Am I gonna have to worry about hitting it too soon and having it puddle and then blow up? In other words would this kit at 150 shot be alright on my engine?

I just don't want to buy this kit and then have it bite me in the a$$ ya know.
definition of a wet kit is it has a n2o selenoid and a fuel selenoid, fuel is supplied from the shradervalve on the rail or via another dedicated fuel line from the tank. and n2o is from the bottle no fuel is in the bottle on any type of n2o kit.

dry kit is setup where n2o is from bottle and fuel is added via injectors either through the tune or through the box that comes with the kit or if you inject it prior to the maf i guess the maf will read the extra 'air' and add fuel.

im not that fimilar with dry kits i run a wet kit.

are you going to have to worry about it puddling, yep

150 is REALLY stretching it without proper safety items, RPM switch, wot switch, fuel pressure safety switch. are all things you should be running with a n2o kit.

btw, if you ever plan to use the n2o on the car at the track per 2006 NHRA rules you have to have a rear firewall in the car and you will need a firejacket and gloves

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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 07:14 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicRattlehead

150 is REALLY stretching it without proper safety items, RPM switch, wot switch, fuel pressure safety switch. are all things you should be running with a n2o kit.

Not too mention a forged bottom end.....
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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Not too mention a forged bottom end.....
done

Quote:
Originally Posted by VicRattlehead
btw, if you ever plan to use the n2o on the car at the track per 2006 NHRA rules you have to have a rear firewall in the car and you will need a firejacket and gloves
oh man you gotta be kidding me. the firewall aint aproblem it's the fire suit and gloves. Now is that just if you are nhra licensed or is that also for test and tune?
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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-10-2006, 10:25 PM
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NHRA RULE CHANGES FOR 2006
Protective Clothing Changes
The Protective Clothing of the E.T. section of the NHRA Rulebook states which jacket and/or pants are needed for 10.00 and slower and 9.99 and quicker.
Supercharged, turbocharged, or nitous-equiped cars, with or without a full OEM or .024-inch steel firewall. Please review the Protective Clothing sections, Section 1A – Superpro, Pro, Sportsman and Section 1B – Advanced E.T. of the 2006 NHRA Rulebook.

Section 1-A, located on page 24 of the 2006 NHRA Rulebook read as follows:
10.00 (*6.40 1/8 mile) and slower; all E.T. non-OEM supercharged, non-OEM turbocharged, or nitrous-equipped cars with an OEM or .024-inch steel firewall: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1 mandatory

10.00 (*6.40 1/8 mile) and slower; all E.T. supercharged, turbocharged, or nitrous-equipped cars without a full OEM or .024-inch steel firewall: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1 mandatory.

10.00 (*6.40 1/8 mile) to 11.49 (*7.35 1/8 mile): Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1 mandatory.

The same Spec for Advanced E.T. is located in Section 1B, located on page #27 of the 2006 NHRA Rulebook.


tnt, nhra event, anytime your on the track.

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best ET: 12.410 -- best MPH: 107.61
NMRA MM7270 -- NMCA EFI/? ????
Thank you to the CMP Drag Racing team: Tony, Doug, Maryann, Dale, Paul and Chris.

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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicRattlehead
NHRA RULE CHANGES FOR 2006
Protective Clothing Changes
The Protective Clothing of the E.T. section of the NHRA Rulebook states which jacket and/or pants are needed for 10.00 and slower and 9.99 and quicker.
Supercharged, turbocharged, or nitous-equiped cars, with or without a full OEM or .024-inch steel firewall. Please review the Protective Clothing sections, Section 1A – Superpro, Pro, Sportsman and Section 1B – Advanced E.T. of the 2006 NHRA Rulebook.

Section 1-A, located on page 24 of the 2006 NHRA Rulebook read as follows:
10.00 (*6.40 1/8 mile) and slower; all E.T. non-OEM supercharged, non-OEM turbocharged, or nitrous-equipped cars with an OEM or .024-inch steel firewall: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1 mandatory

10.00 (*6.40 1/8 mile) and slower; all E.T. supercharged, turbocharged, or nitrous-equipped cars without a full OEM or .024-inch steel firewall: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1 mandatory.

10.00 (*6.40 1/8 mile) to 11.49 (*7.35 1/8 mile): Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1 mandatory.

The same Spec for Advanced E.T. is located in Section 1B, located on page #27 of the 2006 NHRA Rulebook.


tnt, nhra event, anytime your on the track.
Man this sh*t is confusing to me. It seems to me that no matter what if your running on the track regardless of time, you have to have a fire jacket or .024 in steel firewall in front of you. Is that correct?
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok I had a guy I work with that knows more then me about nhra. He is telling me I don't have to worry about it cause the firewall is still oem. He was saying that that's basicly for the cars that are tubed and have made a firewall to the car.
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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-11-2006, 03:50 PM
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well your 'guy' doesnt know nuthin.

if you have an aftermarket supercharger or turbo, or you are running any type of n2o with a .024 firewall or OEM you need to have a Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1

if you have an aftermarket sc/tc/n2o without a full OEM or .024-inch steel firewall you need to have a Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1

so either way you need one of the 2 jackets and if you do not have a rear wall youll need gloves too.

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best ET: 12.410 -- best MPH: 107.61
NMRA MM7270 -- NMCA EFI/? ????
Thank you to the CMP Drag Racing team: Tony, Doug, Maryann, Dale, Paul and Chris.

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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-18-2006, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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yeah I decided to hold off on the no2 til next summer I will make that a project for next winter. Now that im gonna hold off on that I can still buy like 30# 32# injectos and just have it tuned right.
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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-18-2006, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicRattlehead
well your 'guy' doesnt know nuthin.

if you have an aftermarket supercharger or turbo, or you are running any type of n2o with a .024 firewall or OEM you need to have a Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1

if you have an aftermarket sc/tc/n2o without a full OEM or .024-inch steel firewall you need to have a Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1

so either way you need one of the 2 jackets and if you do not have a rear wall youll need gloves too.

True...even with my nitrous bottle removed from the car I still had to have a fire jacket to pass tech inspection at Gateway Intl. They said if the car has nitrous solenoids you need a jacket to race. For street cars with the OEM firewall still in place you only need a jacket that meets SFI Spec 3.2A/1.

I ordered mine from Summit a couple years ago.

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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-20-2006, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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hell those jackets are only $70 maybe I will get run it this year with it. I will probably skip this kit I got's a feeling im gonna buy a kit off someone here.
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