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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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nitrous questions

when you throw in a nitrous kit do you have to build up the motor to handle it... i know its a dumb question but, ive always wanted it but awlays thought there was more to it??
any help???
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 07:37 AM
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You can run up to a 75hp shot with a stock setup. Anymore and you should upgrade your fuel pump and add a chip for nitrous running. The stock 4.6 can only handle 125-150hp shot and that is when all thing are right.


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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2006, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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thats good to know! what's the better set up. wet shot or dry? i really don't know if i want the headache of a direct port install. i already have a 190lph fuel pump and will be getting a chip soon. by the way, i like that purge/blow off you got coming out the cat symbol on the grill. that looks BAD A**.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2006, 06:44 AM
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For the 4.6 you should use a dry system. The 4.6 plastic intake is know for fuel pudding problems and that can cause the intake to grenade. The 3.8s and 5.0s don't have this problem. Thanks for the purge complement

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2006, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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so your saying that the 3.8L's and 5.0's should use a dry shot?? and 75hp is a safe amount.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2006, 07:42 AM
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The 3.8 and 5.0 can use the wet system without a problem it's the 4.6 that has issues with a wet kit. In my opinion I would hold the 3.8 to a 50hp shot. Zex makes a nice wet kit and makes for a really clean install.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2006, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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im thinking that if i did install a wet system i'd go a little more than 50hp. only because im nowhere near stock. heavily modified!! but thanks for the advice on the wet set up
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-11-2006, 12:30 PM
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are you "modified" or forged?




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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-14-2006, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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what do you mean forged or modified?
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-17-2006, 01:11 PM
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Forged vs. No So Forged

If I had to guess from your name, I say you have a 4.3 L stroker assembly that is offered by Morana I think (forgive me if I got the name wrong). I know he's based in Ontario, Canada but I've heard very little about the kits he's offered. Your question on Forged vs. Modified also leads me to believe that this was either sold to you as a 4.3 L or is a plan for the future that you have. If it was sold to you as a 4.3 L stroker, I would HIGHLY recommend that you do a compression test and verify this for yourself as I'd hate to see you get had by someone who just sold it to you with his word that it was a 4.3 L since this is an unconventional stroker for the 3.8 L or maybe just a rebuilt and overbored 4.2 L.

What you need to determine is what the internals (rods, crank, pistons) are made of. In stock form, the 3.8 L comes with hypereutectic pistons, not forged rods I believe, and a cast crank. These weak internals and especially the hyper pistons are known for going boom in forced induction and nitrous setups which is why you shouldn't go beyond a 50 to 75 hp shot at the most. If tuned correctly, hypereutectic pistons can work and have supported 10 psi of boost and beyond. However this is with the right tune from the start with very little room for error. Forged pistons, though not as hard as hypereutectic pistons, can take much more punishment and won't just shatter with slight detonation. I say hypereutectic pistons are harder than forged because they are but that does not mean they are sturdier. Forged pistons can flex and almost absorb some of the adverse force from detonation while hyper pistons will just blow to pieces.

Once you know the specs on the internals of your modified engine, you'll be able to better understand what kind of Nitrous abuse your engine can safely take without going kablamo . . .
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2006, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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the crank is a 4.2L steel and the rods are forged and the pistons are forged floating. the compression is 10.3.1 with a .030 bore on the block and neutral balanced internally.

i actually bought the kit from super6motorsports in GA<

so what do you think a safe set up would be?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-20-2006, 05:21 PM
 
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125 shot possibly more
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2006, 11:47 PM
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Ive heard of 125hp wet shot on a stock 3.8 with a good tune. I wouldnt be worried about going with a 150 with a dyno tune. Your forged bottom end and compression will LOVE nitrous!

btw, super6 has a forged 4.3 on nitrous in the 10's in a foxbody

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-26-2006, 10:34 PM
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I'd start at 75 and if everything looks good try a 100...if it's still got head gaskets and your feeling lucky give 125 a try. I'm afraid to use anything more than a 100 hp shot because it usually makes a 100 more at the wheels on my SC.

Remember to reduce your timing two degrees for every 50 HP.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 12:39 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Neibert
Remember to reduce your timing two degrees for every 50 HP.
pretty good advice
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krazy4
pretty good advice
I agree with David on this. I'd keep it at 100 shot or less. Head gaskets are not the best on those motors, I've even seen the so called "Better Gaskets" blow out too.

Normal procedure is to pull 2 degrees timing for every 50 HP. That could depend somewhat on your set-up and fuel you are using. If its race gas and the engine is built for it then you can play with those things a little bit.

The main thing is dont get overly aggresive as David stated. Step it up when it looks like its good with the smaller shot.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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a 75 shot sounds safe. is the wet set up used before the TB.

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-27-2006, 03:24 PM
 
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yes
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