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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Boost gauge in an SC cluster

First off, sorry if this should be in the interior forum or audio/electronics, but this seemed fitting.

I've got an SC cluster that I'd like to swap in my 96, for the 145 speedo, but I'd also like to use the stock boost gauge. I've got a boost gauge connected, but I'd like to use that spot for another gauge (A/F ratio, oil pressure, or aircharge temp). Outside of the stock LX gauges, I've got boost, fuel pressure, trans temp, and water temp.

I'm pretty electrically retarded, so if anyone could give me some pointers on how to wire the stock boost gauge properly, without being a complete hackjob, I would greatly appreciate it.

89 Cougar XR-7...slightly modded, 240 rwhp / 340 rwtq, Best time as of 4/22/12 = 13.11 @ 103.82, 1.78 60'

Last edited by conversion02; 12-03-2010 at 08:14 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:14 PM
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The boost gauge isn't electrical, it's mechanical. You have to run a vacuum line all the way to the back of the gauge.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks. I was assuming it used a pressure transducer. I'm actually surprised they ran a vac line to the cluster. Seems like a transducer under the hood would be an easier repair than a rotted or cracked vac line through the firewall to the cluster!

Being a mechanical gauge makes it so much easier and straightforward.

Now my next question - is the stock boost gauge very accurate (i.e. good response or does it lag at all)?

89 Cougar XR-7...slightly modded, 240 rwhp / 340 rwtq, Best time as of 4/22/12 = 13.11 @ 103.82, 1.78 60'
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-03-2010, 08:33 PM
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Is it accurate? To some degree. Is it responsive? Extremely. The factory line that goes to the gauge is plastic, so it won't rot like rubber, but very often they break at their connection to the intake plenum.

--Chris

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 08:14 PM
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I have this setup in my 1996 ford thunderbird The gauges are just plug and play. Make sure you have a bulb in the battery idiot light if it does not have one. Run a vacuum line to the cluster. I swaped to a 145 mph spedo in my 96 because I got tired of pegging the 120 one all the time.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-04-2010, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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That's the reason I'm swapping. Being mechanical and having no transducer makes it a piece of cake. I've already got a vac line running to the boost gauge underneath the radio. I'll just reroute it up to the cluster.

I'll likely run a volt meter and aircharge temp in the a-pillar pod, with trans temp, water temp, and oil pressure in the cluster below the radio.

89 Cougar XR-7...slightly modded, 240 rwhp / 340 rwtq, Best time as of 4/22/12 = 13.11 @ 103.82, 1.78 60'
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 08:30 PM
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I'd also have that 145 speedo checked out. I did the same for my SC, but the odo gear was spent. They get old, and split. You can do it yourself, or send it to Bill at Super Coupe Performance. He can also match your current milage

https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...spx?partId=493

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-17-2014, 08:41 PM
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It's easy to set the mileage when you have the head apart, just push out the pin holding the small gears, roll forward/back the odo gears and put it back together.

To answer the four year old question I used the vacuum tree on the cowl for my vac/boost gauge tap. They have an unused plug from the factory

-Matt
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