Tapping the Oil Pan for a Vortech - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Tapping the Oil Pan for a Vortech

So any tips on tapping the oil pan for a Vortech on the 4.6. Really would like some tips from people that have done this on TBirds and NOT Mustangs. I don't wanna screw the oil pan too badly that I end up having to pull the motor and drop the pan, that's not something I want to end up doing.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 11:53 PM
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Don't drill the hole, use a punch to make it. That will fold the metal in, giving enough material for the pipe thread tap to seal.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 09:14 AM
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Stick a strong magnet to the tap, and cover the tap threads with stiff grease.

That will keep the metal out of the pan.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 02:07 PM
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Q: How thick (aka what threading is the hole) for the oil return line?
Q: Is the oil pan thick enough to develop enough threads for sufficient engagement of the oil return line?

While pulling the engine is inconvenient, I can imagine having the oil line pop off while you are driving in a spirited fashion would be even worse. While out, I'm sure you can find other things to consider fixing "while you are in there."

When I added a oil temp sensor to my 5.0 oil pan, I drilled a hole with the pan off the engine since the engine was out of the car.
To be safe though, i then bolted it back to the block after the hole was made and welded a bung onto the oil pan that I used to actually thread the sensor into (bolting it on prevented the oil pan from warping b/c of the head). In my case, I believe that the sensor was only 1/8" NPT which is pretty thinly threaded which worried me.

This might not be the case for your return line.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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The hole will be a 3/8 NPT, I have a set of punches and NPT thread taps, so I'm set on that aspect.

My concern is:
1. Space to tap and punch the pan. I'm not sure there is a lot of room from the front of the pan for a punch and a hammer. I haven't checked it however.

2. In case I screw it up is there an option like patching the pan up instead of pulling the motor up to drop the pan basically?

3. I know some of you have done it to their Birds and I'd love input from you guys especially. I like the magnet idea to grab chips and metal.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
The hole will be a 3/8 NPT, I have a set of punches and NPT thread taps, so I'm set on that aspect.

My concern is:
1. Space to tap and punch the pan. I'm not sure there is a lot of room from the front of the pan for a punch and a hammer. I haven't checked it however.

2. In case I screw it up is there an option like patching the pan up instead of pulling the motor up to drop the pan basically?

3. I know some of you have done it to their Birds and I'd love input from you guys especially. I like the magnet idea to grab chips and metal.
If you screw up the plate, you could drill the 3/8 hole on the plate and JB weld this plate over the hole.
However, how permanent a fix would that be? If you were in a race, I'd say you would finish it. However, long term, I wouldn't trust it.

Welding the patch onto the pan (or a bung over your bungled hole) while the pan is on the engine in the car is a bit sketchy -- you could easily catch some oil residue on fire and that'll be an "experience."

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
If you screw up the plate, you could drill the 3/8 hole on the plate and JB weld this plate over the hole.
However, how permanent a fix would that be? If you were in a race, I'd say you would finish it. However, long term, I wouldn't trust it.

Welding the patch onto the pan (or a bung over your bungled hole) while the pan is on the engine in the car is a bit sketchy -- you could easily catch some oil residue on fire and that'll be an "experience."

-g
The hole will be above oil level line so I'm thinking I would be able to get away with the JB Weld idea for a bit until I have time to take it to a shop for a new pan in case I screw it.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 05:10 PM
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I never understood why people pop a hole in the oil pan for this, the timing cover always seemed like a more logical place to put it, either placing the hole on the bottom between the pan bolt Bosses or on the side with a 90° elbow fitting.
Thunderstruck95 and Creighton like this.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-08-2017, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
I never understood why people pop a hole in the oil pan for this, the timing cover always seemed like a more logical place to put it, either placing the hole on the bottom between the pan bolt Bosses or on the side with a 90° elbow fitting.
I'm open to this. I guess the issue would then be to not get in the way of the belt drive.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-08-2017, 01:43 PM
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Oh definitely, don't just place it somewhere randomly lol, but there are a few areas I can imagine where it could be placed safely

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-08-2017, 10:40 PM
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Not to drive this thread off the rails, but...

What's the advantage of Vortech over Procharger. The fact that the Prochargers run self contained oil systems (no tapping needed) always seemed like a great benefit.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-08-2017, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Thunderstruck95 View Post
Not to drive this thread off the rails, but...

What's the advantage of Vortech over Procharger. The fact that the Prochargers run self contained oil systems (no tapping needed) always seemed like a great benefit.
Well this is a V1-T trim unit, and all the V1 units were externally fed, same goes for Prochargers of that era (also manufactured by Vortech) - only the newer Vortech's are self contained. Believe me a self contained one is a way better idea. I'm sure I could make some external oil tank and pump setup for this Vortech instead of tapping into the engine oil. I did think about doing that but it would probably be a lot of little fab work and finding out where the tank would go and where the drain to the tank would be since that has to be lower than the unit because the drain is gravity powered
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-14-2017, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikutoisahobo View Post
So any tips on tapping the oil pan for a Vortech on the 4.6. Really would like some tips from people that have done this on TBirds and NOT Mustangs. I don't wanna screw the oil pan too badly that I end up having to pull the motor and drop the pan, that's not something I want to end up doing.
just an fyi there is no difference between the tbird and mustang with respect to punching the hole and tapping it out ,which is the best method if you are trying to keep filings out of the pan for an in car install.
good luck on your build

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 10:30 PM
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In all honesty the best way to do this is to weld a fitting to the pan and use AN connections. I have tried the whole punch the pan and tap it followed instructions to a T. Even bought the tool to do it. After having a belt snap and rip the drain out of the pan and taking threads with it. I bought a mark 8 pan and just had a fitting welded on then had the pan powered coated. Hasn’t leaked a drop in 7 years.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 02:47 PM
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When I did mine I punched it out off the car after I checked the location to make sure it was dumping under the windage tray to save churning the oil in the crankshaft.
Before I screwed the fitting in I stirred up epoxy and put some on the last half of the threads to make it safe from vibration and create a definite seal.
Now I have it plugged sold the blower while I was freshening up the engine..

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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crzy4nos View Post
When I did mine I punched it out off the car after I checked the location to make sure it was dumping under the windage tray to save churning the oil in the crankshaft.
Before I screwed the fitting in I stirred up epoxy and put some on the last half of the threads to make it safe from vibration and create a definite seal.
Now I have it plugged sold the blower while I was freshening up the engine..
If the motor is out of the car, the right way to do it is pop the pan off and weld the fitting in. The whole reason for punching it is to be able to do it with the motor in the car.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the insight. I won't be doing this for a while since I had an accident last week and had to have surgery. My Honda is totalled cause some dumbass ran the red and gotta watch my health insurance and get another daily so I have to put this off a long while. So done with cars right now but thankfully it wasn't my TBird which would be pretty irreplaceable. But my health is more important.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-19-2017, 09:33 PM
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Ouch. That sucks. Rest up. I hope recovery doesn't take too long.

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