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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Serpentine Belt

Has anyone noticed the serpentine belt making noise at idle when the engine is cold? AED says that this occurs occassionally and can be caused by a pulley that has become misaligned. Has anyone else heard of this? The squeek is loud until the car warms up and then it goes away...

Please advise...

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 05:50 AM
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Wolverine27,

There was a TSB issued about the idler pulley and bearing for naturally aspirated 4.6L engines. A "hooting" sound was described. The solution was to replace the pulley/bearing with a new one. However, it mostly occured in the winter or when it was really cold out.

I'm sure AED will have a solution for you.

A-Train


FORD: 1993-96 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, THUNDERBIRD
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1993-96 GRAND MARQUIS, MARK VIII, TOWN CAR


This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to revise the warranty statement.

ISSUE:
A "squeal" noise may come from the engine compartment in the area of the Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) during cold start-up (after cold soak at temperatures below -7°C (20°F)). This may be caused by the FEAD idler pulley or tensioner bearings distorting during cold ambient temperatures.

ACTION:
Replace the FEAD idler pulley and/or tensioner pulley. Refer to the following Service Procedure for diagnostic and replacement procedures.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Using a technician's stethoscope, check for noise at the idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearings.
Remove the FEAD belt and restart the engine. With the engine idling, check to see if the noise is still present. If the noise is not present, proceed to Step 3.
If the idler pulley bearing was the source of the noise, replace the pulley with a new Pulley (F6AZ-8678-BA) and new Idler Pulley Fastener (N807599-S2). If the tensioner pulley was the source of the noise, replace the tensioner pulley with a new Pulley (F6AZ-8678-BA). Refer to the appropriate model/year Service Manual, Section 03-05, for removal and installation procedures.

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Ex toy: 1995 T-Bird LX - ALLEN supercharged, 2000 Mustang GT 4.6L PI engine, lot's of goodies...
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-15-2004, 09:38 AM
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I get a squeal when the car warms up and especially when the A/C is on. I believe mine is due to a misalignment.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2004, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks A-Train

I will try and see if it is the idle pulley and then see if replacing it eliminates the problem...Is it a difficult job to replace? Where is the idle puley located?

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-16-2004, 11:40 AM
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It could also be that you need to pull your powerstearing pulley slightly foward because the belt sometimes rubs on the allen idler bracket. To do this you need to remove the radiator shroud and altnator. The use the powerstearing puller from autozone and pull the pulley foward 3 mm or till the shaft is recesed 1 mm below the surface of the pulley.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-18-2004, 06:47 PM
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Wolverine 27,

The TSB is telling you to replace the tensioner arm assy and/or the idler pulley. It's easy to replace and you can get a new one from Dan Newman. The new arm will have a new bearing/pulley attached to it.

Again, I don't know if it's your problem per say. The noise that the TSB is describing only occurs during cold weather or during a cold start/cold engine condition.

You may want to check to see if you belt is rubbing on anything first. Look for black powder on any of the front engine cover surfaces.

A-Train

2008 Acura TSX (5AT)
2012 Honda Ridgeline RTL (w/Navi)

Ex toy: 1995 T-Bird LX - ALLEN supercharged, 2000 Mustang GT 4.6L PI engine, lot's of goodies...
12.74 @ 109.45 mph (BEST E.T. BEST MPH)
325 RWHP/380 RWTQ (SAE) on a dynojet
Tuned by Jerry W. from SCT
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-19-2004, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Grasshopper
I get a squeal when the car warms up and especially when the A/C is on. I believe mine is due to a misalignment.
My AED T-bird just started doing this a few weeks ago. Car is fine in the morning and does not squeal until 10-15 miles on her. When temp above 90 degrees then will start in about 5 minutes or so. Squeal is louder when A/C is on but still a little squeal when the A/C is off.

Anybody have a suggestions as to our problem?

Previous owner of: '96 Tbird Sport with AED SC.
Best 1/4 mile 13.7sec @ 101mph
Previous owner of:'04 Red Mercury Marauder 100% stock.
Best 1/4 mile 14.6sec @96mph on Dec. 20th at Hallsville, TX
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-19-2004, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 96AEDtbird


My AED T-bird just started doing this a few weeks ago. Car is fine in the morning and does not squeal until 10-15 miles on her. When temp above 90 degrees then will start in about 5 minutes or so. Squeal is louder when A/C is on but still a little squeal when the A/C is off.

Anybody have a suggestions as to our problem?
That's exactly what mine is doing.
One thing to add. It did not squeak before the LMAF/injectors/etc conversion. At that point I had the old Motorcraft belt that came with the AED kit. I put a new Gates belt on and it did not change the squeak. Steven says it's the alignment of the PS pulley. On my setup, it looks like location of the belt at the idler (that came with the kit) may be rubbing the front cover.
I haven't been able to get enough time under the hood to make the adjustment to see if that's what it is.
I'm just curious how it suddenly changed. Yes we removed the belt to work on the upgrade but only things we removed and reinstalled were the blower and the alternator. Did not touch the idler.

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But when a good dog wags his tail,
You know he's on the level.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2004, 12:42 PM
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I haven't done anything to my bird in more than three years.

Noise just started a few weeks ago when the temp here in Memphis went into the 90's. This morning it was about 75-80 degrees and during the 30 minute drive to work--no noise that I could hear. But I will have the noise this afternoon on the drive home with temps in the low 90's. Let me know if you find the cause....thanks...

Previous owner of: '96 Tbird Sport with AED SC.
Best 1/4 mile 13.7sec @ 101mph
Previous owner of:'04 Red Mercury Marauder 100% stock.
Best 1/4 mile 14.6sec @96mph on Dec. 20th at Hallsville, TX
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-20-2004, 01:05 PM
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Wow! Since everyone seems to be having such problems with their AED's making noises, why don't you just chuck those POS's... (just let me know where you "chuck" them...)

Yes, I'm displaying "roots blower envy".

Just a little humor.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2004, 06:23 PM
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Idler and Tensioner assembly on a 4.6 is cake to replace. The idler is right above the tensioner. For the idler, one bolt. Retorque to 30 ft lbs (and pray it doesn't snap) The tensioner, you take off the passenger side coil bracket. 2 bolts and a nut. Then two bolts and a nut (the stud came out with the nut) on the tensioner and it comes right off. Check the new tensioner pulley for clearance between the pulley and the front engine cover before you start bolting it on. I had to hammer my pulley slightly to get it to seat further away from the engine. Torque those to 20 ft lbs. Hope that helps.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-25-2004, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all...I will replace the tensioner and idle arm assembly...Then I will re-dyno and see what the results are...

No black powder seen A-Train...It is only occuring during the cold start-up mode...As Scott said, it must be that the belt heats up and does not squeel when the engine warms up...Thus, it must be the tensioner and the idle arm...

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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