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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2004, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Question for A-Train

A-Train,

I have a question for you...All the MSD crap has been taken out of the car. It was determined that the MSD box had a faulty channel, which was being amplified by the tach adapters and blowing the coil packs.

Now that all that crap is out of the car, I am using Jim's tune BLOWN, but the car starts to miss as I go to wide open throttle. I take my foot of the gas and hit the brake to lower the RPM's, then I depress the throttle and all is fine. I notice my A/F guage is in the lean side of stoich.

I switched with Jim's advice to the BLOWN3 option in the tuner which is a richer mixture and the car runs sweet at wide open throttle and like crap when under 2000 RPM's.....

Any suggestions? I am taking the car to my mechanic to get dyno'd tomorrow. He has a Dynopack and will also let me know the BLOWN and BLOWN3 A/F ratio's. He swears that there are no fouled plugs or bad wires, but with the car running on 6 of 8 cylinders for so long is that possible?

Steve

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2004, 04:43 PM
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Steve,

Hard to say from my PC, but I'll tell you my opinion on this subject.

First, your sign shows you have stock hypereutectic pistons and stock connecting rods. If this is ture, be careful as to what you do. These 4.6L engines do not take knock or a misfire well when boost is present.

It sounds to me like your tune is off. Without any data logging it would be difficult to say what it is. What type of cylinder heads are on the engine? SVO, PI or NON-PI?

A-Train

2008 Acura TSX (5AT)
2012 Honda Ridgeline RTL (w/Navi)

Ex toy: 1995 T-Bird LX - ALLEN supercharged, 2000 Mustang GT 4.6L PI engine, lot's of goodies...
12.74 @ 109.45 mph (BEST E.T. BEST MPH)
325 RWHP/380 RWTQ (SAE) on a dynojet
Tuned by Jerry W. from SCT
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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The Cylinder Heads on the car are Stage II ported and polished Non-PI Heads. It has been really cold the past few days and in the 40's. The colder it is, the worse the problem is...

Wonder if the tune's that Jim did are for hotter weather and maybe he needs to give me a cold weather tune...All of this started when I changed the exhaust because the car was running extremely lean on the 6/8 cylinders when the coil packs blew and the center cat went bad

Yes, I still have the stock rods and pistons. I am waiting for them to go, since I spent so much on the car so far and tearing apart the engine is a cost that I did not anticipate. Should have done it when I had the engine out to change the heads...Well, hind site is 20/20...

Steve

P.S. I will send you the dyno sheets...

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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A-Train

Forgot to mention that the problem goes away in the new program when I depress the throttle to WOT or hit the brake, but if I stay at the same RPM's the problem continues and the car seems like it is not moving (Like gas is not going into the engine).

-Steve

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 01:46 PM
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Are you monitoring your fuel pressure? This should always be 39.5 PSID between the fuel rail press and manifold pressure (blower discharge side).

A $150 OBDII logger and a laptop will go a long way to telling you what's wrong in closed loop. Wideband needed for WOT though. Since they're so expensive, usually best to rent dyno time.

I expect that the tune is too lean. And if you're wondering, this is bad. The kind of bad that breaks parts and has you walking. Don't just keep driving it like this. There's only a small chance of the timing being off enough to cause this or spark being blown out. You need to make a run on a dyno with a wideband. Then of course a reburn to fix it.

The most important thing of a high performance engine is a good tune. Don't spend all your money on blowers, etc. if you're not will to set it right. The cost of a new (or used) engine is significantly more than a good dynotune.


John

2000 Chestnut Grand Marquis w/HPP
0 to 60 in 5sec, 1/4 mile 13.3 @ 101

* Rennigade Forged Engine and ported npi heads
* AED 9psi Supercharger, 70mm FRRP TB, 90mm LMAF, Marauder Airbox
* 3.55 Trac-Lok w/extra clutch + F-150 spring, J-Mod Tranny
* Reinhart Exhaust, KB Dead Pedal

Last edited by JohnE; 11-22-2004 at 01:54 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 02:09 PM
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Do you gamble alot? You are risking alot of expensive parts with that stock bottom end. If your having trouble I wouldnt be doing many WOT runs....thats kind of not smart IMO.

Some supercharged cars blow.......Others just pick up and move.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2004, 05:24 PM
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Steve,

You didn't answer me, so I'll ask again. What kind of cylinder heads are on your engine? If you do not wish to tell everyone, PM me. It's one of three choices. PI heads, NON-PI heads or SVO heads. It's important to know (i.e. SVO are slow burn and require more spark timing).

It still sounds like your tune is off. It could be spark timing, fuel delivery, transmission function or all three. 3,200 rpm stall speed is rather high for the torque you're making (or going to be making). If your spark timing isn't there (in the program) and you are rich with a locked up torque converter, she'll pull down at 2,000 rpm and run unresponsive.

I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU GET A DYNO TUNE WITH SCT. I would check with Lonnie Doll out in CA to see if you can get your car dyno tuned with SCT software.

"The cost of a new (or used) engine is significantly more than a good dynotune."

John, I couldn't agree with you more!

A-Train

2008 Acura TSX (5AT)
2012 Honda Ridgeline RTL (w/Navi)

Ex toy: 1995 T-Bird LX - ALLEN supercharged, 2000 Mustang GT 4.6L PI engine, lot's of goodies...
12.74 @ 109.45 mph (BEST E.T. BEST MPH)
325 RWHP/380 RWTQ (SAE) on a dynojet
Tuned by Jerry W. from SCT
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2004, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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A-Train,

I did say that they were NON-PI Heads, but they have had a competition valve job and a stage II porting an polishing...

My mechanic found a problem yesterday while he was starting the dyno. The fuel inlet line that connects to the fuel rail is leaking and spraying fuel on the AED Air Inlet. It appears that the air inlet is putting pressur on the fuel line do to the BBK Valve covers which raise everything up. I Talked with Scott at AED last night and he and I are trying to see if there is another fuel rail that could be used in order to relocate that line. My mechanic believes that this is what is causing all my problems suddenly... He said that a loss of fuel pressure into the fuel rail would cause a miss. Car is parked in the garage and I will be going to ORME Bros. to see if they can custom bend the fuel line to clear the air inlet tube.

Can you think of a fuel rail that would be better????

-Steve

AED 9 PSI Supercharger, .30 over Forged Block with Manley H-Beam Rods & Pistons, Innovative West 10% Overdrive Crank Pulley, Thump RRR Tensioner Pulley, Cobra Crankshaft, BPE Racing Stage 2 Ported & Polished Heads, Crower Direct Replacement Cams, 70MM Throttle Body, MAC Cold Air Intake, 80 MM L-MAF, 38Lbs Injectors, JBA Ceramic Coated Headers, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Kevlar Clutch & Kolene Reaction Plate Transmission, True 2.5" Dual Magnaflow Exhaust (Cats & Mufflers), Griffin 1 1/4" Radiator, B&M Racing Trans Cooler, Hughes 2750 Stall Torque Converter, 3.73:1 Gears with Traction Lock Differential, Trans-Go Kit, Superchips Custom Tune for Supercharger, 17" SVT Wheels, Kenny Brown Suspension Enhancers & Eibrach Lowering Kit.
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