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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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sway bar links replacement issue

Ok, so I had the struts (grr the bottom LCA bolts, took hours with the rust! I was thinking about heat but didn't want to cook the bushing) off to swap on the 91, and I wanted to replace the end links. The boots are gone. Got a good deal on TRWs with a price match.

The knuckle end came out fine but the strut end didn't want to budge. Hammer, kroil, picklefork, nothing would release it. Hammer is not the best idea because the sway bar is probably absorbing lots of energy. I even tried to secure the sway bar. Had to grind down and restore the threads on the old one so I can reuse it. Guess thats 18years of salt for ya!

The book shows a special tool, something like this:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...pecialty+Tools
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99849

Or is this a lost cause without the blue wrench? What is your experience..

95 4.6L Rusty Survivor!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:40 AM
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I didn't have too much trouble with the pickle fork. Just hammered it into position and then put some leverage on it. It destroyed the old boot of the sway bar endlink but you are changing those out anyways. Also, I don't have much rust.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:51 AM
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grind off the old threads and beat them out with a punch?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by richuncle View Post
I didn't have too much trouble with the pickle fork. Just hammered it into position and then put some leverage on it. It destroyed the old boot of the sway bar endlink but you are changing those out anyways. Also, I don't have much rust.
I don't care about destroying it, I had the pickle fork all the way in and hammering the stud with a hammer. I hit it so hard that it mushroomed 3 rows of threads! I don't know how I got the bolt back on, had to grind the bolt. I wanted to grind it all the way but there was still an issue of what is left inside, couldn't get a drill at that angle.

The salt welds metal, you wouldn't believe how strong it could get. You guys have southern cars.


With the strut in there is not much room for a punch. I'm probably going to try the lever tool next. If that don't work maybe heat and that tool.

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Last edited by tbirdguy; 01-12-2009 at 10:40 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 10:37 AM
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yeah but i grew up in that sharthole state called ny. so i know all about dealing with rusty crap.

perhaps a sawzall or some torches would solve the problem. or some det cord?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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yeah but i grew up in that sharthole state called ny. so i know all about dealing with rusty crap.

perhaps a sawzall or some torches would solve the problem. or some det cord?
im gonna get a torch...im a masochist for doing these repairs without one.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdguy View Post
I don't care about destroying it, I had the pickle fork all the way in and hammering the stud with a hammer. I hit it so hard that it mushroomed 3 rows of threads! I don't know how I got the bolt back on, had to grind the bolt. I wanted to grind it all the way but there was still an issue of what is left inside, couldn't get a drill at that angle.

The salt welds metal, you wouldn't believe how strong it could get. You guys have southern cars.


With the strut in there is not much room for a punch. I'm probably going to try the lever tool next. If that don't work maybe heat and that tool.
Wow. I hope I never have to go through that, and that I didn't come off as an ass.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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FOr others who run into this...

Well I got the harbor freight tool above and it popped off with a few turns. The right tool is everything, its the same as the Ford Manual. Can't believe the price either with the 20% discount. Looks like a quality tool for popping ball joints and other stuff like that.

The new nuts on the TRW rod drove me nuts. They have an unbelievable amount of prevailing torque. They look squashed or elliptical. Ended up reusing my old nuts with locktite on the sway bar end. Also, its easier to install if both links are off, you can move the sway bar.

ALL my noise is gone now. It used to crunch, click, bang. nothing extreme but annoying...I couldn't believe it. Best of all, Advance Price matched autozone and I got TRW parts. Was like $55 for the pair with tax.

They aren't greasable though, but they have a lifetime warranty if there are any issues!
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Last edited by tbirdguy; 09-09-2011 at 02:23 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdguy View Post
The salt welds metal, you wouldn't believe how strong it could get. You guys have southern cars.
Oh trust me I understand! All I'm gonna say is dodge Avenger half shafts and wheel bearing hubs. 12 tons on a hydraulic press wouldn't budge it at all. Had to cut them out and replace both half shafts to replace front hubs. ouch!

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