Pinch Bolt Woes! - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Pinch Bolt Woes!

The pinch bolt is giving me a hell of a time i cant get the nut or the bolt to budge an inch! Ive soaked it with WD-40 let it sit but its still a no go. Any suggestions?


Also the Bolt for the Strut wont budge, i have the nut off but the bolt isnt moving any suggestions on this one?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry looked through more old topics and found this http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ght=Pinch+Bolt
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 10:11 AM
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I would add that the bottom strut/shock bolt can rust itself together and never come apart. I had one that I thought was going to be easy and it still sits as an assmebly in my garage today.

The upper is usually a lot easier. If you let it sit, maybe apply a bit of heat. Then knock it out. Then put a wedge in the slot there in the front and the ball joint stud will come right out. I just noticed that you cannot get the nut off. The nut is the only side that turns. The bolt is captive.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 05:19 PM
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Ha, at least it isn't a Taurus Pinch Bolt. They threaded right into the Knuckle - real fun to try and get out in one piece in the salty North.

Stephen

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-15-2009, 07:22 PM
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the bolt does have ridges on it to grip inside the pinch


I bust ARP bolts by hand...

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 11:44 AM
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On mine I soaked it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple minutes then got out a crescent wrench for the square bolt head. I rocked it back and forth until it loosened up. Then I whacked the end of it a few times and it came out about 1/16". I shot it up with more Blaster for good measure and rocked the head back and forth a few more times and whacked the end a bit more... It came out after a couple minutes. I didn't damage the bolt or nut either so I didn't have to worry about replacing them.

IMO you just have to alternate between lubing it up, rocking the bolt back and forth and whacking it with a hammer.

I'm having the same troubles with the lower shock mounting bolt; nut came off but the bolt isn't anywhere near as forgiving as the upper ball joint pinch bolt. I tried the same routine above but it only got out about 3/8" before it wouldn't move anymore. So I sawed off the head and threads as close to the inner sleeve as I could to get the strut ass'y out. Now I've just been knocking it back and forth while keeping it good and soaked in PB Blaster to help dissolve that rust. I've been working on it for about an hour and it's moving about 1/16" more since I started. Very slow, yes... but I don't have the right drill bits to drill it out. Eventually I'll get the thing out.

EDIT: Just an update, I kept working on the lower shock bolt like I said above and it came out. All it requires is the right tools, a good arm and some patience!

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Last edited by theterminator93; 02-16-2009 at 02:57 PM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-16-2009, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I got both UCA and Lower Shock bolt out with WD-40, Thickest Hex Wrench i could find and a hammer.

Used the Hex Wrench as a driver and hammered and sprayed lol. Came out with ease actually, after i started using the driver, So tomorrow ill try and do the Rear shocks and springs......Any worries that i should know of now??

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
On mine I soaked it with PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple minutes then got out a crescent wrench for the square bolt head. I rocked it back and forth until it loosened up. Then I whacked the end of it a few times and it came out about 1/16". I shot it up with more Blaster for good measure and rocked the head back and forth a few more times and whacked the end a bit more... It came out after a couple minutes. I didn't damage the bolt or nut either so I didn't have to worry about replacing them.

IMO you just have to alternate between lubing it up, rocking the bolt back and forth and whacking it with a hammer.

I'm having the same troubles with the lower shock mounting bolt; nut came off but the bolt isn't anywhere near as forgiving as the upper ball joint pinch bolt. I tried the same routine above but it only got out about 3/8" before it wouldn't move anymore. So I sawed off the head and threads as close to the inner sleeve as I could to get the strut ass'y out. Now I've just been knocking it back and forth while keeping it good and soaked in PB Blaster to help dissolve that rust. I've been working on it for about an hour and it's moving about 1/16" more since I started. Very slow, yes... but I don't have the right drill bits to drill it out. Eventually I'll get the thing out.

EDIT: Just an update, I kept working on the lower shock bolt like I said above and it came out. All it requires is the right tools, a good arm and some patience!
That job sucks bigtime, and heat will destroy the rubber bushing. The right tools are an air chisel on one end, and an impact spinning the bolt on the other. I see why these jobs have such outrageous estimates if you want a shop to do them.

Last edited by tbirdguy; 04-07-2012 at 10:35 AM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winkeytoofly View Post
I got both UCA and Lower Shock bolt out with WD-40, Thickest Hex Wrench i could find and a hammer.

Used the Hex Wrench as a driver and hammered and sprayed lol. Came out with ease actually, after i started using the driver, So tomorrow ill try and do the Rear shocks and springs......Any worries that i should know of now??
Mmm, the shock job was pretty easy (bending over and crawling into the trunk not withstanding ). Top mount came off easily on mine as did the lower mount. The only thing that might give you any trouble is the screw turning with the nut on the upper mount; the very top of that screw is hex headed so you can grab it with another wrench to keep it from spinning as you loosen the nut. But like I said, other than that... a 20-30 minute job, tops. As for the springs, haven't had to replace mine yet. In fact, I hope I don't ever have to!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdguy View Post
That job sucks bigtime, and heat will destroy the rubber bushing. The right tools are an air chisel on one end, and an impact spinning the bolt on the other. I see why these jobs have such outrageous estimates if you want a shop to do them.
Yeah, that's basically how I got the driver's side bolt out. I used the tie rod end lifter to apply pressure to the bolt on the threaded end as I "unscrewed" it out on the other end, the whole time keeping it soaked with Blaster. Took a couple hours, but it worked.

-Brandon
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-13-2009, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 94mncougar View Post
Ha, at least it isn't a Taurus Pinch Bolt. They threaded right into the Knuckle - real fun to try and get out in one piece in the salty North.

Stephen
Oh god... the taurus ones were a nightmare on my SHO.... I'm glad i sold it...
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