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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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strut rod bushing sleeve frozen to LCA

Ok, I'm helping someone with their newly purchased tbird and the strut rod sleeve is superglued to the lca with rust. Heat is not an option because of all the rubber, but my mechanic friend told me to take a deep breath.. . Its also not a good idea to heat suspension parts too much.

I tried pounding but the rubber seems to absorb the hits. My next idea is to start drilling or dremeling out the bushing. Any ideas?

Last edited by tbirdguy; 04-07-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 04:40 PM
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Lca

Hello

I would just replace the lower arm. In the long run it may be cheaper.
Between time wasted & materials used.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 04:46 PM
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the only sleeve for the strut rod bushings are at the frame. the lca end of the strut rod should only be the bushings themselves.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 08:22 PM
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Take the LCA and Strut Rod out as a Unit and go from there.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by big mike View Post
the only sleeve for the strut rod bushings are at the frame. the lca end of the strut rod should only be the bushings themselves.
There is a metal tube or shell in the bushings thats holding it in. I guess its best for the arm and the strut rod to come out - The arm to frame bushings look squashed. Just extra work. Thanks for the help guys.

Last edited by tbirdguy; 04-07-2012 at 12:29 PM.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 11:30 AM
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There is a metal tube or shell in the bushings thats holding it in. I guess its best for the arm and the strut rod to come out - The arm to frame bushings look squashed. Just extra work. Thanks for the help guys.



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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
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the only sleeve for the strut rod bushings are at the frame. the lca end of the strut rod should only be the bushings themselves.
No, there's a metal sleeve at the arm; at least on the aftermarket ones I have.

The Moog blue ones.

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
No, there's a metal sleeve at the arm; at least on the aftermarket ones I have.

The Moog blue ones.
right. i sold a set of lca bushings a while back that had those sleeves. i think they were trw's. i was referring to the factory frame bushings that have a sleeve with a lip on it.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 05:44 PM
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Reviving this thread rather than starting a new one.

I'm rebuilding the front suspension on the Cougar and have run into a bit of a snag I'd like some second opinions on before proceeding. The strut rod is too important a component to take a hacksaw to.

The LCA side strut rod bushings are, as many of you know, two pieces of rubber molded around a steel sleeve. Unfortunately the steel sleeves in the original bushings on the passenger side have rusted - completely and wholly - to the strut rod. The rubber fell off the metal sleeves when I removed the LCA; the sleeve from the rear bushing has mostly rusted away but the sleeve on the front is still intact (yet completely rusted to the strut rod). I can't break it free - not using vise-grips to spin it or PB B'laster or heat. Strangely enough however, the driver's side was perfectly clean and smooth.

I'm down to either using a grinder to grind the rusty sleeves off or using a saw or cutoff wheel along with a chisel to try and chip them off. I'd hate to remove the entire arm and replace it.

Suggestions? Tips?

-Brandon
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 08:18 PM
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Take a cut off wheel to it, but becareful not to cut the threads up, then chisel it off, the same thing happend to me a month ago

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 09:34 PM
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Be sure to keep all the original washers.

There are few of the oem bushings left, and no kits...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 02:58 AM
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I sprayed mine down good with Blaster and used a hammer on the washer to work it down. It eventually came off.

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 06:44 AM
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Hrm, thanks fellas. I'm gonna take a cutoff wheel to the durn'd things now and see where that gets me. Hopefully I can get this all buttoned up today.

-Brandon
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 07:51 AM
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Excellent! Spent maybe 20 minutes on them with a cutoff wheel and managed to get them off without much issue. Now it's time to play the "waiting for the UPS guy to deliver my parts" game.

-Brandon
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 07:52 AM
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Makes me wonder what people will end up doing in a few years to fix the tension strut bushings. When no OEM bushings even exist. Someone might think of somnething better but who knows. Funny how I see clean strut rods in the junkyard but even I think they aren't going to come off to be reusable. My care has zero rust on them and the 2 sleeves were still seized up. Makes me think a junk yard donor is next to impossible to pull with out ruining them.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
Makes me wonder what people will end up doing in a few years to fix the tension strut bushings. When no OEM bushings even exist. Someone might think of somnething better but who knows. Funny how I see clean strut rods in the junkyard but even I think they aren't going to come off to be reusable. My care has zero rust on them and the 2 sleeves were still seized up. Makes me think a junk yard donor is next to impossible to pull with out ruining them.
Huh.

I grabbed two a while back.

Maybe I ought to start grabbing them out of the yards when I get a chance? They seem to come out easy enough here - some whacking and cussing to get them free to begin with, but they DO come off in one (well, two) pieces.

Guess it's time to start listing what I have extra for sale, eh?

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
Makes me wonder what people will end up doing in a few years to fix the tension strut bushings. When no OEM bushings even exist. Someone might think of somnething better but who knows. Funny how I see clean strut rods in the junkyard but even I think they aren't going to come off to be reusable. My care has zero rust on them and the 2 sleeves were still seized up. Makes me think a junk yard donor is next to impossible to pull with out ruining them.
It is sad that only the OEM bushings work correctly. There are a few aftermarket options but if they don't look into the fitment/design problems and fix it everyone is going to have a clunking front end.

I was thinking this same thing last night about the trunk lid lights, that's one junkyard only part (for new ones anyways) plus a lot of the interior pieces are all gone now. If we want to keep everything working as intended or better we're going to have to be creative. Some day you wont be able to find much in the junkyards to pick through.

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 08:43 AM
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I really should buy a pair of the frame side kits before stock is depleted. Eventually I'm going to need them. The LCA side bushings and frame side bushings are still readily available from what I've read.

-Brandon
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 09:12 AM
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Yes it's the hardware that's getting hard to find. You can buy the bushings separately.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
I really should buy a pair of the frame side kits before stock is depleted. Eventually I'm going to need them. The LCA side bushings and frame side bushings are still readily available from what I've read.
If anything, it seems to me there's too much choice in the LCA side. You have to understand what you're going for.. I want the things to give me close as possible to the original ride.. that would SEEM to be the OE design, not the poly which I would expect to be great for modders. OTOH, I hate being tempted by the 8 dollar 'generic' kits. When money's tight, that's always a worry.

Confession: I only replaced the nut end 'with the generics' on my last car, which worked fine to fix 'brake application swerve' Guess I really aint all that picky.

Before THAT one, I used PBlaster, hammer tapping with backup to loosen, then a small {finer tooth} pipe wrench to work the sleeves off. Then I sanded the rusted area well, and coated lightly with lithium grease.

BTW: I was a denizen of the old Mustang Mailling list back in mid-eighties.. guess what a major topic was THEN:
"Our cars are twenty freakin years old! What do we do in ten years or so when we want to fix our 65's.. where we gonna get the parts?!!!!"
- need I say more!

And I would bet that there's options available for the frame side bushing/ rubber.. not like that's a unique application. May have to modify them a little but hey..

Last edited by pettyfog; 07-01-2011 at 01:11 PM.
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 05:43 PM
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Id like to replace it with an AWD style A arm but yeah nice history lesson pettyfog I wonder if I should try to get a couple sets of hard ware or at least try. However stangs were made on the order of millions so thats a little more popular than an mn12. I think some redesigning is possible is just that people dont want to risk their car to do it. I think solid heim joints with some sort of spring loaded section allowing for proper movement would be cool but then again what if the spring broke LOL.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 06:37 PM
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Yes it's the hardware that's getting hard to find. You can buy the bushings separately.
I bought the rubber bushings back in mid April. I asked if the sleeves and washers were available. Nope. The dealer I went to said there were none left anywhere. I asked them if the kits were available. Same thing, none available.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 07:03 PM
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I got 2 kits the first week of April and they had to be shipped from Texas. Shortly after that is when people started reporting they couldn't get the kits anymore.

I wonder though if the hardware from the moog kits can be used with the Ford bushings.

edit: Just saw AC Delco replacements for $47.96 a kit. Has anyone ever tried those?

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 10:40 PM
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Just saw AC Delco replacements for $47.96 a kit. Has anyone ever tried those?
Yes.

Don't.

They're RAMCOA just like all the others it seems like.

Although, switching to Ford parts, since I didn't trim the ferrules, didn't fix my clunking either.

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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
Makes me wonder what people will end up doing in a few years to fix the tension strut bushings. When no OEM bushings even exist. Someone might think of somnething better but who knows. Funny how I see clean strut rods in the junkyard but even I think they aren't going to come off to be reusable. My care has zero rust on them and the 2 sleeves were still seized up. Makes me think a junk yard donor is next to impossible to pull with out ruining them.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 01:06 AM
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Didn't someone approach DLF asking about that? IIRC he turned down the idea claiming that there wouldn't be sufficient interest. Nor would anyone actually be willing to pay for what they are worth. I doubt some of the other bushing he produced flew off of the shelves. IIRC his biggest hit is delrin headlight conversion rings for the mark crowd. Maybe someday someone will take on the strut rod problem.

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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 01:28 AM
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low volume sales = bigger cost

That's why theyre so expensive. I think in the future the average person would rather have a clunk than dish out $200+ a side. But on the bright side if yours are fairly new and you keep any leaks from happening they will last a long time.

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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 01:36 AM
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Yup, I'm redoing all my PS lines so none pass over the bushings as per the factory setup and leaving my non clunking stockers on unless they start making noise. Until then the NIB ones I'm getting will be in safe keeping.

Quote:
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Didn't someone approach DLF asking about that? IIRC he turned down the idea claiming that there wouldn't be sufficient interest. Nor would anyone actually be willing to pay for what they are worth. I doubt some of the other bushing he produced flew off of the shelves. IIRC his biggest hit is delrin headlight conversion rings for the mark crowd. Maybe someday someone will take on the strut rod problem.
I'd modify the K member and strut rods to make those Maier ones work directly. I have no patience for platform specific product development or the monopolized cost when I can adapt and persevere with something similar. That's what hot rodding is all about

-Matt

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 10:01 AM
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Yup, I'm redoing all my PS lines so none pass over the bushings as per the factory setup and leaving my non clunking stockers on unless they start making noise. Until then the NIB ones I'm getting will be in safe keeping.
I'm not that handy with tools and can't really work on my car anyway but was thinking of making some kind of cover to keep PS fluid from dripping on it if I did develop a leak.

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I'd modify the K member and strut rods to make those Maier ones work directly. I have no patience for platform specific product development or the monopolized cost when I can adapt and persevere with something similar. That's what hot rodding is all about
That would be nice if someone could figure out a fairly easy to do adaptation of another set of bushings.

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BTW: I was a denizen of the old Mustang Mailling list back in mid-eighties.. guess what a major topic was THEN:
"Our cars are twenty freakin years old! What do we do in ten years or so when we want to fix our 65's.. where we gonna get the parts?!!!!"
- need I say more!
Unfortunately the Tbirds didn't have the production numbers of the Mustangs and now 15-20 years later don't have the collector value either so there really is no interest in making replacement parts. In the first 18 months of the Mustangs life one million+ cars were made.

I'm just thankful for these forums because I plan on keeping mine forever and some people here have come up with some really good ideas from being creative and innovative. I started working on interior stuff myself like bezels since you can't just go buy the pieces anymore. Once we bleed out the junkyards that's it and even junkyard interior pieces aren't in the best shape.

We do have cool things like Matt's cruise control illumination mod is awesome, Scott's gauge faces, access to better LED's and those things can give your car a unique look. Down the road things are going to get more and more scarce.

-Kelly
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Needs Harmonic Balancer, complete suspension overhaul.
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