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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Rear hub removal

After you remove the nut holding the rear hub can you pull the hub off with a puller without taking anything else loose? The manual does't give a good detailed breakdown for hub removal, only shows farther disassembly to remove shaft. I only need the hub off. I am not replacing anything, only want to drill it to a 4.50 instead of 4.25. Any help might save me some extra work. This is a 1995 T-bird LX ,Thanks. Larry.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 02:15 AM
 
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The nut retains the axle to the hub. The rear hub itself is pressed into the bearing; the bearing pressed into the knuckle.

From this thread I found this SCCOA page: Ford Thunderbird Rear Wheel Bearing Installation. These instructions may be of help.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 07:15 AM
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This is the way I just did mine:

1) remove shaft nut
2) remove the 3 bolts holding the hub/knuckle on
3) half shaft will probably pop out of rear end because it is stuck into knuckle. Knock the half shaft out of knuckle with a dead blow.
4) you will then have to have access to a press to get the hub and bearing out of the knuckle.

And then put it all back together in the opposite order.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 11:26 AM
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 12:30 PM
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just buy cobra hubs and wow its all done for you.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Guys, I do appreciate your help. I was looking fo an easy way which I never find. I took the hubs off just like I thought I was going to with no problem. I have access to a machine shop and a good machinist so it won' be a problem now that they are off the truck. Thanks again. Larry.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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I got the hubs and drums drilled for the 5x4.5 pattern. My machinist made a setup to bolt the knuckle and hub to the table and drilled them out without pressing them out. Tomorrow I am removing front hubs to drill them. Now I can get some original looking wheels for the 48F1 truck.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my tb truck View Post
I got the hubs and drums drilled for the 5x4.5 pattern. My machinist made a setup to bolt the knuckle and hub to the table and drilled them out without pressing them out. Tomorrow I am removing front hubs to drill them. Now I can get some original looking wheels for the 48F1 truck.
In the front since they don't have to be pressed in, for the price, new mustang hub assemblies might be better.

And those rears look good.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 09:37 PM
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How much??

Quote:
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I got the hubs and drums drilled for the 5x4.5 pattern. My machinist made a setup to bolt the knuckle and hub to the table and drilled them out without pressing them out.
What did your Machinist charge to redrill the rear hubs?

I need to get mine redrilled. I can press them off no problem.

Does anyone know if rear drum & rear disk hubs are the same?

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Question Which hubs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbrown View Post
In the front since they don't have to be pressed in, for the price, new mustang hub assemblies might be better.

And those rears look good.
I looked at the front hubs and they will have to be built up where the studs will be at the new location. Which Mustang front hubs would match the front disc brakes on the T-bird? I don't see many Mustangs at U-pull it yards. Rock Auto has some hubs for about $65.00. This is a 1995 LX I am asking about. Thanks for your help. Larry.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my tb truck View Post
I looked at the front hubs and they will have to be built up where the studs will be at the new location. Which Mustang front hubs would match the front disc brakes on the T-bird? I don't see many Mustangs at U-pull it yards. Rock Auto has some hubs for about $65.00. This is a 1995 LX I am asking about. Thanks for your help. Larry.
Sorry, I thought you were getting these redrilled for Mustang pattern.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R8D-XXX View Post
This is the way I just did mine:

1) remove shaft nut
2) remove the 3 bolts holding the hub/knuckle on
3) half shaft will probably pop out of rear end because it is stuck into knuckle. Knock the half shaft out of knuckle with a dead blow.
4) you will then have to have access to a press to get the hub and bearing out of the knuckle.

And then put it all back together in the opposite order.
What did you do about the front hubs? It looks like they cannot be just drilled out and the studs relocated. Are there any Mustang hubs that would fit the 1995 T-bird ? I am changing the patter as you know from 5x4.25 to 5x4.50 so I can order me some original looking steel wheels for the 48 Ford F1. I have the back ones finished. Thanks, Larry.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my tb truck View Post
What did you do about the front hubs? It looks like they cannot be just drilled out and the studs relocated. Are there any Mustang hubs that would fit the 1995 T-bird ? I am changing the patter as you know from 5x4.25 to 5x4.50 so I can order me some original looking steel wheels for the 48 Ford F1. I have the back ones finished. Thanks, Larry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VicRattleHead
just buy cobra hubs and wow its all done for you.

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4.25 to 4.5 Bolt Battern Change
http://members.tccoa.com/dlf/Article.html

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-24-2009, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my tb truck View Post
I got the hubs and drums drilled for the 5x4.5 pattern. My machinist made a setup to bolt the knuckle and hub to the table and drilled them out without pressing them out. Tomorrow I am removing front hubs to drill them. Now I can get some original looking wheels for the 48F1 truck.
We are through with the front hubs also. Ready to put them back on and figure the backspacing I need and order me some original looking wheels. Putting 8 inch on the bacvk and 6 inch on the front. BFG T/A radials and trim rings with original FORD hubcaps for a 48 F1.

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