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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Now What?

This week I replaced the entire front suspension in the bird. UCA, LCA, sway bar endlinks, koni shocks, eibach springs, poly front strut rod bushings and rear bushings (the one's Bill sells on SCP). Get it all back together and take it in to the dealership to get aligned and they tell me that everythings good except the caster ran out of adjustment at -1. Has anyone else had this problem? The strut rod is out of thread to adjust the caster and the only thing I can think of is sh#tcan the poly bushings for stock ones as they are a lot thinner. What else is there that I replaced that could throw the caster off by that much? thanks guys


teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 02:01 PM
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When you say 'ran out of adjustment' at -1 are you saying your caster is at -1 degrees or -1 degrees outside of spec? If the bushings were thinner your lower ball joint would be pulled forward resulting in more positive caster as you stated. I have poly bushings (they suck) in mine and I took an initial swing of about 7.5 degrees. I'm not sure if they'd go on, but did you put your UCAs on the wrong side, that would throw you negative.

lowered, koni sport adjustables, 4.30 tl in aluminum housing, mark 8 trans, j-mod, 93 mark viii ds, antenna hole=gone, kooks headers 1.75" primaries, 2.5" catless duals, midmount magnaflow, 96-97 sport wheels with 255/50/16 sumitomo HTR Zs, optima in the trunk, new motor...94 mark 6/6/08

Last edited by coolhandzep; 04-10-2009 at 02:08 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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the tech adjusted the strut rod as far as it would go (threadwise) and I am still at -1 degrees camber. So in actuality it is off by 5-7 degrees as factory specs called for 4-6 positive degrees as the acceptable range. When I put the LCAs on I put them on the way they came off the car. The short leg is to the front of the car. This is right isn't it?

teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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After some digging I have figured out that they are installed on the opposite sides. I'm pissed in a way but at least I now know what was wrong. Not knowing had me absolutely baffled. I should have known everything went way to smooth on the rebuild. Thanks for the help Coolhand! Back to the garage I go!

teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 05:06 PM
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Cool to hear that you got it figured out .The shop best do it free this time

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 05:26 PM
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I've seen that a few times, mostly on chevy trucks. Glad your problem is under control. You'd think the dealership mechanic would have noticed that before cranking the piss out of the strut rod nut wouldn't you?

lowered, koni sport adjustables, 4.30 tl in aluminum housing, mark 8 trans, j-mod, 93 mark viii ds, antenna hole=gone, kooks headers 1.75" primaries, 2.5" catless duals, midmount magnaflow, 96-97 sport wheels with 255/50/16 sumitomo HTR Zs, optima in the trunk, new motor...94 mark 6/6/08
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderChecken View Post
Cool to hear that you got it figured out .The shop best do it free this time
Bummer that it is, but I expect he'll do it himself, as I read his post ... he put them on the first time.
The man at the shop might have noticed it, maybe not as he sees a lot of front ends. Hard to blame him.

coolhandzep was reading close.

Oh well, not the hardest thing to correct.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Cool to hear that you got it figured out .The shop best do it free this time
I'm not counting on it, but it does have to go back anyway because when the car's driving straight the wheel's at around 11:30. The regular tech was on vacation but will be back this week so maybe while he fixes that...........

teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 10:33 PM
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well my opinion is it's always best to do work yourself because you know it will get done right. there are those few things you can't do yourself but what you gonna do about it. hey you made a mistake but your not a certified tech the guy that did the alignment you would think should have spotted that almost instantly. it sounds like thouhg your ride will turn out a ok.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 01:21 AM
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If I was aligning a car and the caster was at some crazy negative value, red flags would automatically pop into my mind. If it was just one side I would think the car was crashed, but both sides something has to be wrong. In my opinion the alignment guy at the dealership isn't worth his salt. Based on how our cars are adjusted caster wise he should have known there's no way he's getting even close by adjusting the strut rod all the way in. Oh well, I guess it is a moot point now, but hope you slammed it back together effortlessly (the second time is always faster).

lowered, koni sport adjustables, 4.30 tl in aluminum housing, mark 8 trans, j-mod, 93 mark viii ds, antenna hole=gone, kooks headers 1.75" primaries, 2.5" catless duals, midmount magnaflow, 96-97 sport wheels with 255/50/16 sumitomo HTR Zs, optima in the trunk, new motor...94 mark 6/6/08
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, all done took about an hour and a half. Even put my STB back in. It was impossible to reach my arm in there with it lowered so I figured I better put it back on while the tires were off. Now just need to get everything aligned........again. I've always said I'm the king of doing sh#t.........twice. Oh well alls well that ends well I suppose. Now all I have left to do is swap torque converters, drive shafts and get my trac loc diff rebuilt. Crap, thought I had most of my work done but not yet I see.

teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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