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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Question Replacing the Upper Control Arms...?

Hey i hear go with the factory or Moog.... what about Duralast? anyone have them and if so what do you think? they are $50 cheaper for the set and still carry a lifetime warranty....... Is there just something special about Moog?

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 07:03 AM
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Moog has higher testing and quality control testing where as duralast don't. They might have a "lifetime" warrenty but is it worth your life to find out? They are a critical part of the suspension system. Personally I've had nothing but problems with any duralast parts. But that choice is yours to make.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 09:01 AM
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Go TRW which is OEM or Moog. I have the Moog UCA's on my car and am very pleased with them.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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ok thanks! i'll just spend the extra $50 and get Moog's... anything is better than what i have now!, but for the future i want the best so Moog it is

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 12:10 PM
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UCA Moogs here and wouldnt trade them.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 04:35 PM
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Yeah, good quality control is priceless though. You are not talking about a blower motor here.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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ok got passenger side done! driver's side.... how do i get the nut loose by the brake booster and m.s.?? if posssibe a response before 8 am CST? goin to work on it around there thanks!

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 04:57 AM
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 07:41 AM
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guess what you got the harder one done, now the easier one won't be so bad. I did the drivers side first. It was easy. When i did the passenger one i couldn't get the 18 mm in their. Had to use a regular one to force it in and it took a while to get it loose. It was very small turns for about 20 min. In your case it should be easy due to the fact that it is the drivers side. Wrench fits in there like a glove.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
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ok gotta go get a ratcheting wrench! thank you for the response!

~Kyle~

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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one more question... still have clunking... do i need a break in time? or could it be something else?

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 12:35 PM
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one more question... still have clunking... do i need a break in time? or could it be something else?
have you replaced any of the other ball joints? lower ball joint, sway bar end links, and tie rod ends? might want to check them out and make sure they are still greased and the rubber cover things aren't dry rotted
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 12:39 PM
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No break in time required. The front sway-bar end links will clunk when they go bad if you haven't replaced them I'd recommend you consider them as a likely candiate for your clunk.

These cars have a really annoying front suspension. I have replaced every conceivable comoponent on my front suspension from the control arms (upper and lower) to the shocks and springs, bushings, etc. and I still get some noise from time to time.

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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ok where and what is a good way to buy (bang for the buck)? on a tight budget now!

~Kyle~

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 04:46 PM
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ok where and what is a good way to buy (bang for the buck)? on a tight budget now!
Look at rockauto, find a 5% discount code online.

This is not a critical component, so whatever is cheapest with shipping is ok. The stock TRW ones are not greasable BTW.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 05:02 AM
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Look at rockauto, find a 5% discount code online.

This is not a critical component, so whatever is cheapest with shipping is ok. The stock TRW ones are not greasable BTW.
Which is probably why they last so much longer.

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 10:56 AM
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Look at rockauto, find a 5% discount code online.

This is not a critical component, so whatever is cheapest with shipping is ok. The stock TRW ones are not greasable BTW.
EXACTLY! I have saved a ton of money on all 4 of my cars ordering parts from Rockauto....... BTW..... here's a discount code of mine

Quote:
Your discount code is:

16228291380191

Using Your Discount Code
Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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ok thanks! I appreciate all the help!

~Kyle~

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 08:54 PM
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THe front swaybar endlinks make a rattling noise that really annoyed me; check those while you have the knuckle loose.

One end will be frozen, the other rattles. That might be what you are hearing.

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