Ball joint separated in a very nondramatic way - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
Nitemare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 29
Posts: 893
Ball joint separated in a very nondramatic way

Well, it started out like this. A few friends and I were headed to a burnout competition. I had pulled off two rims off the t-bird and had them loaded up, my friend had some in his truck for him, and we were on our way. Well... I was headed to a gas station when I took a turn, in the middle of it, heard and felt a thud, then a grinding sound... so I stopped, looked at the person with me, and all I said was "Well, there goes a ball joint." Got out and looked, and wasn't entirely sure if that really was what happened. I expected to see my car slammed on the ground and a wheel folded in or out, or something. What I did see was my passenger side was dropped down a decent bit but other than it looking lowered on one corner it looked like nothing had happened. I guess I got lucky on how it turned out, but too bad I didn't get lucky enough for it to just not happen. We jacked it up, took the wheel off and took a few ratchet straps, wrapped them around both control arms and tightened them to hell, then put the wheel back on, slowly dropped it while watching to make sure it was going to work, then I limped it back to the shop I had just left.

I'll have a set of upper and lower control arms Tuesday to fix all the front ball joints, and right now I'm working on pulling this bad lower arm off so I can swap it with one off the t-bird since its engine is torn apart waiting for me to finish a head swap. The way I see it, the t-bird arm should work until Tuesday as long as I'm careful.

Needs more stall.
Nitemare is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
Nitemare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 29
Posts: 893
I just now realized I completely left out the main reason why I posted this... The lower shock bolt on the LCA is completely stuck. I impacted the nut off but I can't get anything besides a wrench or 3/8" ratchet in there to get the bolt. The reason why I'm doing all this now is because I need this car out of this garage by Monday because it's in the shop I work at and if I leave it, then it's in the way for actual customers and I'm sure my boss won't like that.
But anyway, it's been soaked with PB Blaster multiple times and has been left to sit for about three hours. Is the bolt even threaded into anything or can it be beat out or something?

Needs more stall.
Nitemare is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 10:21 PM
1st Gear Poster
 
TANKSHAW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lincoln Park MI
Age: 35
Posts: 32
Man looks like you got a little problem. Same thing happened to me when i did my moms struts like 8 years ago in shop! Exactly the same situation needed a quick fix. I tried heat which was a mistake!. After i melted the bushing i had no problem getting the bolt out lol. So i stuffed some extra shock bushings that my shop teacher had laying around in with a sleeve and some washers cause i had to move it out of the shop! This made it so i could get it out into the lot. And i fixed it right the next class. But i didnt drive it on the road You could get a new bolt and new bushing cut the old bolt and press the new bushing in . alot of work. But i would say after doing it a long time ago. (and working on many more after that). if you have new lower arms just swap one in. As long as your lower arm to frame bolt isnt seized also!

96 4.6 sport---- fresh suspension, other than that stock as a rock!
TANKSHAW is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
Nitemare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 29
Posts: 893
Right now the only thing holding the LCA to the car is the lower shock bolt. I got the frame bolt out with little issue. The new arms include all new bushings minus the strut rod bushings, so I tried the torch method and all that accomplished was destroying the old bushing and leaving me with a bolt still stuck in a sleeve. I'm wanting to just cut the damn bolt and get it over with but I can't find a replacement.
I've pretty much decided to just use a jack to wheel it off to the side since it's a decent sized garage, and not even mess with the temporary solution... it seems like way too much of a pain now.
Oh and I've also decided not to listen to my friends that don't know these cars. I was stuck here after getting the nut off that bolt, and he told me to remove the bolt with a wrench... something tells me the sleeve over the bolt isn't threaded now that I really look at it and think about it.

Needs more stall.
Nitemare is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 12:45 AM
Rob
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Rob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Hubbard, TX
Age: 37
Posts: 3,902
Send a message via AIM to Rob
The sleeve definitely isnt threaded, but sometimes bolts will back out of non-threaded holes either from the crap built up in the hole and "making threads" in the crap as its removed, or if it is in a sort of a bind and wont pull out, it will turn out with a wrench. I think your problem is corrosion between the bolt& the sleeve though. I have seen some threads on this here too I believe. My cars never have that problem because I'm from texas
-Rob

-Rob
RIP '94 Amber Fire Pearl Metallic Thunderbird on Bullitts [email protected]
96 Sport '02 Explorer PI with ported heads, 90MM LMAF, DirtyDog Marauder TC, Lasota tune, Jmod, Magnaflow mid-mount with X, no cats. Urethane drivers motor mount. HIDs!
Rob is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 07:44 AM
PostWhore
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: albany, ny
Posts: 1,170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitemare View Post
Right now the only thing holding the LCA to the car is the lower shock bolt. I got the frame bolt out with little issue. The new arms include all new bushings minus the strut rod bushings, so I tried the torch method and all that accomplished was destroying the old bushing and leaving me with a bolt still stuck in a sleeve. I'm wanting to just cut the damn bolt and get it over with but I can't find a replacement.
I've pretty much decided to just use a jack to wheel it off to the side since it's a decent sized garage, and not even mess with the temporary solution... it seems like way too much of a pain now.
Oh and I've also decided not to listen to my friends that don't know these cars. I was stuck here after getting the nut off that bolt, and he told me to remove the bolt with a wrench... something tells me the sleeve over the bolt isn't threaded now that I really look at it and think about it.
Napa and advance has the replacement bolt you need, it is called AK-68, just ask for that part.

AK-68

As usual your friends are dead wrong, it is definately not threaded, what happens is the bolt corrodes to the sleeve and for all intents and purposes is welded. It gets MUCH worse if they use salt on the road.

At this point cutting is your best bet, since you are replacing the arms.

I spent a whole day on one once...Some things you can try are:

-barbaric pounding on the nut end with a large sledge (take out all your frustration)

- wedging a very heavy duty screwdriver or long chisel between the bolt head and the strut body and pounding..

-finding the seam in the bushing (preferably on both ends), and wedging something in there, spray some PB or Kroil in the gap. Then you can pound...

-mild heating (but with the rubber bushing its not a good idea, also the heat seems to be absorbed by the rubber)

-If the bolt does budge outward in any way, tighten the nut with a 2' breaker bar as tight as you can make it. This will make the bolt stretch a bit and break some bonds. Maybe even try this first, do you care if you break the bolt???, NO!!

-even as the bolt gets loose, you are going to be fighting it until the end. An impact can help you here.


Whatever you do, Use a generous amount of anti-sieze on the entire bolt body when it goes back!! Do not skip this step.

An impact hammer could probably help with this job too.

Make sure the new shock bolt is tightened with the vehicle weight on the ground, because of that bushing!! Very important!

95 4.6L Rusty Survivor!

Last edited by tbirdguy; 06-07-2009 at 07:54 AM.
tbirdguy is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome