Tension Strut Rod Bushings - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Tension Strut Rod Bushings

I am planning on doing some front-end work to my 1997 Thunderbird sport and, as part of that work, I want to replace the tension strut rod bushings (both at the frame and at the lower control arm). RockAuto sells a strut rod bushing kit (Moog part #K8659) for the frame side of the strut for $44.79 - it consists of 4 rubber bushings, 4 washers and 2 metal sleeves. They also sell a kit (Moog part #K8680) for the lower control arm side of the strut rod for $23.89 - this kit also consists of 4 rubber bushings, 4 washers and 2 metal sleeves.

Are these kits for BOTH sides of the car or do I need to purchase 2 of each of these kits?

Thanks!

Dennis
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 06:33 PM
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Please dont buy their (moogs) frame side bushing sets! There is no good replacement aftermarket frame side strut rod bushing kit. The ever vigilant vultures at ford noticed this and drove their price up through the roof knowing that their design is the only reliable and safe part.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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But the Moog part # I referenced for the frame side bushings say "improved design" - do you still stand by what you said about not buying them?

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 07:28 PM
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I wouldn’t post it unless I did. We’ve gone round-and-round with moog about it. The incontrovertible engineering & photographic proof (and resultant damage) can be found in previous threads. Moog has placated themselves by offering replacements to the people that I’ve been directly involved with but at the end of the day, replacement of an inferior product with another doesn’t fix the problem.

As noted in the other threads, The ‘improved performance’ thermoplastic seems to be even more sensitive to some types of automotive chemicals & fluids encouraging a seemingly fast deformation and ultimate disintegration. I would buy just about any part they make for a car but I will never buy a strut rod bushing from them. Bad engineering hamstrung by bad execution and ultimately bad performance.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 10:53 AM
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I just bought FORD kits from local dealer. Plenty are still available from dealer stock. Ask dealer to run the P/N in their "Locater" service. Some dealers offer old stock items with significant discounts. I got a pair of fronts for 65.00 shipped, and rears (4) for 35.00 shipped. The rear kits were just bushings only, you re-use the washer cup and nut on each side. The sleeves are part of each bushing. The front kits were complete new, including both nuts.

Good Luck!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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I realize that this is an older post, but if you happen to see this can you tell me what the part number for the strut rod front bushing kit is (the ones you got for $65.00 shipped), what dealer you got them from and what their phone # is?

I need to replace my strut rod bushings when I replace my lower control arm and would like to go with Ford parts if I can get them cheap enough (I've been out of work on lay-off since last December).

Thanks,

Dennis
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delz05 View Post
I just bought FORD kits from local dealer. Plenty are still available from dealer stock. Ask dealer to run the P/N in their "Locater" service. Some dealers offer old stock items with significant discounts. I got a pair of fronts for 65.00 shipped, and rears (4) for 35.00 shipped. The rear kits were just bushings only, you re-use the washer cup and nut on each side. The sleeves are part of each bushing. The front kits were complete new, including both nuts.

Good Luck!
Yes I would like to order a few sets of the front bushing kits too.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 06:21 PM
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How hard is it to replace these bushing? do you require any special tools to remove the old ones? I am planning to replace mine tomorrow, since the pass side is clunking pretty bad and annoying the hell out of me..

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Someone on these forums had a good idea and I recommend trying it - take your car to a Midas or some other local shop and ask them to get the front and rear nuts broke loose and then re-tighten them. That way, when you go to take them apart, they won't be frozen and too hard to take apart. If you don't do that, you're probably going to have a hard-as-hell time getting them loose since you need to try and keep the strut from turning!

I'm going to replace mine in a week or so (as soon as I get my Vogtland springs) and I'm going to have a shop break them loose first!

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 08:46 PM
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I have an air compressor and impact gun.... not too worried that way, just wondering if the bushings are pressed in or if they will pretty much fall out after undoing the nuts...

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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I read a post somewhere on these forums where someone who had an air compressor and an impact gun was unable to get the nuts on the tension struts loose - something to do with the strut being mounted in rubber bushings negating the impact guns torque advantage.

My dad has an air compressor and an impact gun, too (I always work on my car at my dad's house, since I live in an apartment), but I'm still going to have a shop loosen them up for me. I don't want a repeat of when I tried to change my front struts/shocks - I couldn't get the lower strut/shock mounting bolt loose because it was seized to the bushing in the lower control arm.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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And, no - I think the bushings just press into the sub-frame and lower control arm by hand. They shouldn't be too hard to get out unless they're just stuck to whatever they're mounted to from age. They'll probably just come out (I'm hoping, if they're stuck) by using a screwdriver to pry them out.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 09:50 AM
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Three things I learned when I did mine.

One.
A 1/2" drive and a 3/4" drive impact didn't work. The rod just bounce around in the rubber. I ended up using a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a cheater pipe. Even after they were loose from the bushing, they were still hard to remove.

Two.
The rubber bushing is just sandwiching the frame. No prying necessary, but the steel sleeve holding the washers together were rusted together. I did pry the washers off the steel sleeve.

Three.
If you get the Moog bushing like I did, (It was before I read they will squish out under hard driving.) remove the steel cup buried in the stock rubber. I used a torch to heat the cup and pried it off the rubber. Then I cleaned, painted and placed them under the Moog Poly bushings. I also reused the stock steel washers, because they were a larger diameter then the Moog pieces.

Just my $0.02
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