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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2009, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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UCA's quick question

I ordered new UCA's since mine are shot and I have been feeling a little uneasy driving on them. I did the drivers side once before but strauss sold me a crappy arm and not a year later the boot was torn up. I did notice after I did that arm though that I developed a clanking sound that happens (mostly) when pulling in to my driveway on an angle, I was told by some that this is because I tightened the bolts completely while the car was in the air and did not have weight on the suspension, is this true? should I tighten them up fully when the suspension has weight on it?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-07-2009, 07:53 PM
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From what I know, it is true that if the bolts are fully torqued with the suspension fully extended that the bushings will bind once things are in their normal state.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 11:09 AM
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You'll definately bind the bushings if you torque the bolts while the car is up in the air. Mine were pretty easy to get to with the car on the tires normally, but I'm not lowered or anything.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 01:21 PM
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jack up the car from the lca. put the jack right under the ball joint and lift it off the jackstand slightly, then torque away.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 03:16 PM
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Strauss sucks, they are only good for chemicals.

Yes, you have to tighten the bolts with the bolts with the weight on the wheels, otherwise you will get binding. You want the bushings to restrict any upward movement, without any preload

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips guys, depending on what time the ups guy shows up tomorrow I will (hopefully) be doing this in the morning.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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I was wondering should I but some of those ball join covers(boots)? do they help at all or are they more detrimental then good?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Got the new UCA's today, they look to be of decent quality and the ball joint boots are much heavier rubber then what I got from strauss last time. I was surprised that they sent me 2 types one was a thinner (same as whats there now) non greaseable unit and the other was a thicker unit that also came with a boot cover already on it. One came with a pinch bolt the other did not so I think I should go up to autozone and see if they sell the pinch bolt other wise should I reuse the one I put on last time? I know you aren't supposed to but what should I do?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 11:08 AM
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I re-used the pinch bolts when I did my UCAs... no trouble so far.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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That is what I ended up doing, the drivers side wasn't as bad as I thought but the passenger side was scary looking, I think if I put it off any longer it may have broken off soon.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewishkah View Post
Got the new UCA's today, they look to be of decent quality and the ball joint boots are much heavier rubber then what I got from strauss last time. I was surprised that they sent me 2 types one was a thinner (same as whats there now) non greaseable unit and the other was a thicker unit that also came with a boot cover already on it. One came with a pinch bolt the other did not so I think I should go up to autozone and see if they sell the pinch bolt other wise should I reuse the one I put on last time? I know you aren't supposed to but what should I do?
use some Locktite and do not overtighten that nut. Maybe 60 ft/lbs. You can stress the flange where it attaches.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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New drivers side.



Old drivers side(wasn't as bad as I thought but it was torn)


New Passenger side.



Old Passenger side.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 12:18 PM
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I'd check the lowers closely; you probably saved yourself a terror moment there!

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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I definitely did lol when I took it out and it had up and down movement I actually thought I would be able to pull it out with my hands. Funny enough I still have that front end noise, I think next up will be the front end links.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 11:05 PM
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The swaybar endlinks cause the most noise; one end will be wasted, one end frozen.

(I have 2 sets like that, lol.)

They rattle like something's falling off.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thats the sound I've got but the links didn't look to be in bad shape and made no noise when I tried to shake them with the suspension under load. Im sure it is them would it be ill advised to ride around with them off of the car for a short time?
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-18-2009, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewishkah View Post
Thats the sound I've got but the links didn't look to be in bad shape and made no noise when I tried to shake them with the suspension under load. Im sure it is them would it be ill advised to ride around with them off of the car for a short time?
AFAIK, if they fail, they won't break anything, but corners will su*k. And it will make a bunch of noise.

Ever drive a 4x4 with no swaybars? (Rock crawlers don't use em, apparently...)

The suspension loads the to where they won't make any noise while attached; pop the bottom connection on one, and it will rattle. The top will be frozen, most likely.

A puller is really handy for this; and nondestructive as well.

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