Has Anyone Done The Front Koni Adjustabe Shock Mod!? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Exclamation Has Anyone Done The Front Koni Adjustabe Shock Mod!?

The Shock Installation Has You Hack up Your Stock Front Shocks To Place These In its Place!!
A Link w/ pics

http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf


Installation of “Bolt-Through-
The Bottom” Strut Inserts

• 3mm or 1/8” drill bit.
• 14mm or 9/16” drill bit.
• Cutting tool. (hacksaw or other)
• Round or half round file.
• Hex Socket or Allen Socket and
torque wrench to fit lower attachment bolt.
• Soft Face Hammer
• Factory strut.
• Tape measure or ruler.
• Marking pen or pencil.
• Small centering punch.
• Masking tape.
• Electric drill.
• Thread Locker (optional)
.................................................. .................................................. ...

1. Remove factory strut assembly from the vehicle
and remove upper strut mount and spring per
factory workshop manual. Place the factory strut
upside down in a vise.
2. Using a tape measure on the bottom of the strut
find the exact center of the bottom of the tube and
place a mark there with a marking pen.
3. Make a punch in the center at the mark from Step
2 with a centering punch.
4. Using an electric drill and a 3 mm (approximately
1/8”) bit drill a hole in the bottom of the strut at
the punch mark. Be cautious as some gas and oil
may escape out of the hole during this process.
5. When the gas pressure has escaped, place tape
over the bottom hole to reduce spillage.
6. Using a tape measure or ruler on the NEW
KONI insert measure the distance from the
bumps on the body to the top of the body
(where the chrome rod come out). Write
down this measurement. Subtract 7mm
(about 1/4 “) from this measurement. Then,
using the calculated value, measure down the
distance from the top of the original strut to
that calculated value and mark a line around
the factory strut.
A Hacksaw, Band-saw, tubing cutter, sawsall
or cut-off wheel can be used for cutting
the housing.
Cutting the factory damper
7. Cut off the tubing at the line using all proper
precautions for the cutting tool. You only
need to cut the outer tube and not all the way
through the strut. Remember the strut still
contains oil inside.
8. Drain the damper and dispose of the oil
properly. Remove any burrs from the cut
strut tube using a file or other tools available
to you. Make sure that when finished the
inside edge of the strut tube is smooth.
9. Enlarge the hole on the bottom to 14mm
(approximately 9/16”) using an electric drill.
Remove any burrs from the hole.
10. If there are any protrusions sticking out from
the inside of the housings, these must be
smoothed down with a file.
11. Place the rubber dust boot provided over the
cut end of the tube.
12. Insert the KONI insert into the tube and
begin to install the lower bolt and washers, it
is recommended but not required that you
also use thread locker. The bumps on the
side of the KONI insert are an interference fit
and will require some force to go in. The
bolt at the center bottom of the housing
should be able to draw the insert in but some
blows with a soft face hammer may be
required to get it started inside. A soft face
hammer (plastic or rubber) should only be
used.
13. Torque the lower bolt to 75Nm or 55
FT.LBS. Slide the dust boot over the top of
the cut tube.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 11:41 AM
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Install Yes.

Hello

I have them in my car. Have not driven(raced ) it yet. RAIN!!

Paul

Paul [email protected]
1990 Thunderbird Circle Track Street Stock
351W 2bbl.
C-4 Auto
3.90 open rear
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Are they any good??
N' was it that big of a deal to get them to work??
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009, 09:17 PM
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No it's really not hard. Just cut the tops off (if I remember right there is a line on the shock body I cut mine at) and drill a hole in the bottom to run the screw into the bottom of the Koni insert holding the insert in the shock body.

teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank You!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 03:17 PM
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I've got a question. Does it have to be the stock shocks? or will any shock that works on the front of our cars work? I have KyB's right now and will be getting these within a couple months.

-Josh
My Car Domain

"It will be found an unjust and unwise jealousy
to deprive a man of his natural liberty
upon the supposition that he may abuse it."
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 03:49 PM
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You can use any shock available if you want. I'm probably going to be using my tokico blues as the doner when I get Koni's

-Matt
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
You can use any shock available if you want. I'm probably going to be using my tokico blues as the doner when I get Koni's
Sweet. Thanks.

-Josh
My Car Domain

"It will be found an unjust and unwise jealousy
to deprive a man of his natural liberty
upon the supposition that he may abuse it."
-George Washington
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