Front sway bar end links - how to install? - TCCoA Forums
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By hotdog647
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 24
Front sway bar end links - how to install?

I started to take the old ones off, and I got one out barely because of the brake cable sitting behind the end link. But, I did get the old one off, but there is not enough room for the new one. DO I need to take the brake cable off? I've tried to research this but came up with nothing.
Keith88lx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 06:45 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
Super Moderator
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Ridgeville, Ohio
Age: 31
Posts: 9,076
Garage
I just took off the calipers. Don't take off the cable; there's a crush washer to seal it against the caliper and I wouldn't feel comfortable putting the line back on without a new one.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
Gone but not forgotten: 96 Mark VIII, 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
I just took off the calipers. Don't take off the cable; there's a crush washer to seal it against the caliper and I wouldn't feel comfortable putting the line back on without a new one.
I did plan on changing my brake pads anyway. Thanks.
Keith88lx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2009, 10:35 PM
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith88lx View Post
I did plan on changing my brake pads anyway. Thanks.
You don't need to remove the brake line from the caliper just to replace your brake pads, unless you're replacing your calipers, too. If the caliper is in your way, just unbolt it and hang it from the upper control arm or coil spring out of your way.

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw_4814 View Post
You don't need to remove the brake line from the caliper just to replace your brake pads, unless you're replacing your calipers, too. If the caliper is in your way, just unbolt it and hang it from the upper control arm or coil spring out of your way.

Dennis
I was originally trying to figure out how to replace my sway bar end links because the brake line was in the way of intalling my new end links. I asked if I needed to remove the brake line to replace the end links, not the pads.
Keith88lx is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 10:04 AM
Veteran Poster
 
MikeyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Michigan
Age: 31
Posts: 746
I recall unhooking the line from the bracket that holds it in place (not from the caliper), using a pick to pry the old ones out, then with the aid of someone on the other side of the car, slipped them in at the top at the same time.

95 Cougar XR-7
Sold it...

96 Thunderbird LX
Sold it...
MikeyB is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 11:45 AM
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
You may need to use a ball-joint separator or some type of puller in order to replace the sway-bar end-links. Mine were rusted/frozen to the knuckle and sway-bar and would NOT come free (they looked like they were the original ones from when the car was made and were COMPLETELY shot after approx 144,000 miles)! I was unable to use a pry-bar because whenever I tried to pry on it, the sway-bar flexed inward slightly making my prying completely useless! I gave up after only a short time because I already decided to have a shop install my front struts/shocks (due to the lower strut/shock mounting bolt being completely seized to the lower control arm bushing!), so I just decided to let them tackle the sway-bar end-links, too!

I probably could've done all that work myself, however, if I just hadn't given-up so quickly! After all, in the last 4 weeks, I replaced my upper and lower control arms, tension strut bushings and coil springs in front, as well as my rear coil springs!

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 12:19 PM
Veteran Poster
 
MikeyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Michigan
Age: 31
Posts: 746
This (pickle fork) and a BFH should knock them out fairly easily, if they are stuck in there just work at them a little bit.


95 Cougar XR-7
Sold it...

96 Thunderbird LX
Sold it...
MikeyB is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 24
I already have a ball joint separater which I used to get the old drivers side out. But, it barely came out due to the brake line sitting right behind the end link. Now, for some reason the new ones seem bulkier than the stock ones and they won't fit between the brake line. This is my issue.

Here is what my stock one looks like. The ends where the ball joint is, it is small and flat. These I removed pretty easily.

[IMG][/IMG]

This is what my new ones look like. The ends where the ball joint is, it is round, and beefier. These will not slide between the brake line.

[IMG][/IMG]


I do appreciate the feedback though, thanks.
Keith88lx is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 01:41 PM
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
The ones you bought are made by Moog, they are the same ones I have on my '97 Thunderbird. I just looked at some pictures I've taken of my front suspension and I can see that my Moog sway-bar end-links clear my front brake lines but only just! My suggestion to you would be to GENTLY and CAREFULLY bend the brake line SLIGHTLY away from the knuckle to allow your new end-links to clear them. Be careful NOT to kink the line!

I just ever so slightly bent mine in towards the center of the car when I replaced my front suspension pieces on Monday to give me some more room to work and I have no problems whatsoever with my brakes now.

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 01:44 PM
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith88lx View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
The ones on top are like the ones made by TRW, which was the original equipment supplier. The bottom ones are made by Moog; I think they're a little beefier plus they can be greased.

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw_4814 View Post
The ones you bought are made by Moog, they are the same ones I have on my '97 Thunderbird. I just looked at some pictures I've taken of my front suspension and I can see that my Moog sway-bar end-links clear my front brake lines but only just! My suggestion to you would be to GENTLY and CAREFULLY bend the brake line SLIGHTLY away from the knuckle to allow your new end-links to clear them. Be careful NOT to kink the line!

I just ever so slightly bent mine in towards the center of the car when I replaced my front suspension pieces on Monday to give me some more room to work and I have no problems whatsoever with my brakes now.

Dennis
I thought about doing this, but wanted to see if anyone else have tried it also. And here you are, thanks I am going to try this.
Keith88lx is offline  
post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 03:01 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: FL
Posts: 2
new twist to old thread

Over time I have worked on almost all years of Thunderbirds, Cougars, Marks and Mustangs. This time I came looking for help with the sway bar end link replacement on a 97 Cougar. They are tough, especially working alone. Read the above posts. Two tips I'd like to add for anyone in future years: 1. Dont try to install the links as pictured: that is how they will look in place and most likely how they come out of the box. Straighten them out a bit-both ends-they are ball joints. 2. Install the screw end on the sway bar first but don't completely tighten it. This keeps it away from the big nut at the bottom and helps you twist and align the top bolt with the hole in the arm.

Having 2 people working on both sides to slip the top bolts into the holes at the same time would sure help. But the end link ball joints are tight enough to stay in place with just enough play for one person to go side to side and move the sway link into place. By changing the geometry of the link and snugging the bottom bolt first, you don't run the slim chance of damaging your brake line. Doug
Luke Hollosy likes this.

Last edited by hotdog647; 04-02-2013 at 03:02 PM. Reason: car change
hotdog647 is offline  
post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 08:36 PM
PostWhore
 
nall_one's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Hickman Nebraska
Age: 31
Posts: 1,273
Garage
i'm not really a fan of those moog ones. the cup boots don't stay on the joint during turning and let the grease out and road dirt and water in.

as long as you keep them greased their fine, but its messy cuz the stuff wont stay in the boots and oozes out on everything.i find myself greasing them every oil change and wiping everything up with a couple of rags.

it is nice to be able to grease them, but i almost wish i would have got the ACdelco or TRW ones, they have clips zipped around a bellows style boot.



good tie rod boot eh? that's also a 3 month old moog at the time that was taken. got myself a set of energy suspension ones to cure that problem >.>



and the control arm? also a zerkless moog... pretty sure it was a re-boxed or something, otherwise the new ones are coming zerkless.

also had to swap out an upper control arm from moog at that time since the bushing ripped loose from the control arm and was making a horrible rubbing noise with suspension travel.

needless to say, my faith in moog has definitely been shaken. i stock and sell them daily, and i have started to notice their quality dropping quite a bit. you can pull an older box off the shelf and compare it to a brand new one and the boots are different, zerks arnt 90*, etc...

RUST!! eating away at me more than the rear fender wells
95 Deep Jewel Green 40th Anniversary Bird / Stock SOHC 190k 96-97 intake swap, 97 Mk8 4R70W, Jmod, 3L27 / energy susp rear spindle, and cobra arm bushings, 93 Mk8 shaft, and LCAs, 225/60r16 on Windstar twin 5spokes, Vogtland 1.6drop springs, Tokico Blues, PBR, and rear-disk swap, 89 SC swaybars
nall_one is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome