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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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greasable front end links?

Ok so the other day I noticed a bunch of my front end parts are greaseable and probably havent been greased since I got the car I know I know stupid me. My front end has a bunch of rattles and I was wondering if I grease them would this quiet things down or is it to late? Also I don't have a grease gun besided buying one what would be my best option to get these done and how much do you think it should cost to just fill them up?

Greaseable parts: front endlinks and lower ball joints, the ball joints look like they have some grease but the endlinks look bone dry.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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anyone? i want to get this done today if it will be worth it.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 02:02 PM
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hit up a quik lube place and they may charge like 10 bucks or so

Otherwise go buy a grease gun and some grease. It cant hurt to try anyway you need to grease the LCAs

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DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Well after going to the quick lube place I am very impressed with what some grease can do. Before it sounded like my car was falling apart, now its quieter then ever before!! both lower ball joints were greaseable the drivers side upper ball joint also, the passenger side end link was grease able also he did any grease fitting he saw, topped off my power steering, and coolant and it was $15. I was very happy with the result! I seriously thought I was looking at an entire front end rebuild soon it was so noisy, for anyone with bad rattle check for grease fittings and try them first may save you some money.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 09:40 PM
 
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if they are knocking or rattling you need to replace them, grease hasn't solved anything is simply filled in the space to muffle the sound.

if you don't get them replaced it will get worse and start causing all sorts of weird problems.

I had a loose wheel bearing I believe to have been caused by the ball joints throwing stuff out of whack being loose. this in turn caused my car to pull to the right forcefully when I would brake.

It was also hard to turn the wheel because things weren't lined up etc.


replace your UCA and LCA on both sides if they are both knocking.

since they are greaseable though, it sounds like they were top shelf replacements before you got the car.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
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if they are knocking or rattling you need to replace them, grease hasn't solved anything is simply filled in the space to muffle the sound.

if you don't get them replaced it will get worse and start causing all sorts of weird problems.

I had a loose wheel bearing I believe to have been caused by the ball joints throwing stuff out of whack being loose. this in turn caused my car to pull to the right forcefully when I would brake.

It was also hard to turn the wheel because things weren't lined up etc.


replace your UCA and LCA on both sides if they are both knocking.

since they are greaseable though, it sounds like they were top shelf replacements before you got the car.
+1. My mom's 93 was making the usual front end racket, so we had it greased up. Two months later the passenger's side lower ball joint failed and came out of the LCA. It was a nasty sight, and it happened at "only" 15 MPH.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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I have already done the UCA's about 3 months ago they are not the issue, one of them is greasable one wasn't unfortunately. You are right slowly but surely the sound is coming back although no where near as loud. I will check out what exactly needs replacing and when I can I will replace said parts. I believe some of the parts to be original as when I got the car it only had 63k on it. the passenger side sway bar endlink is a replacement part as it has the grease fitting and the drivers side did not and it look newer, unless it is original and the drivers side was replaced with a cheap one. I believe both lower ball joints to be original though.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 07:04 AM
 
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it is most likely the lower ball joints. My car was making a hell of a sound, and after replacing that lower control arm most of it went away, the steering came back and was much easier to turn/return, and it stopped swerving when I braked

also, I heard this weird, "lighter" sounding knocking, which turned out to be my UCA, the bolt right by the A/C accumulator had come a little loose and was knocking around. tightening that bolt solved that little problem.

now I just have my drivers side LCA/UCA to replace and see how much more knocking it cures.

there's also the problem of my brakes grinding......don't know if i will ever figure that out.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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For the lower ball joints should I just get the ball joints or just buy new arms with the balls already pressed in? the ball joints are $30 at autozone for greaseable ones. The endlinks are kind of pricey though and I want to hold off on those till absolutely necessary.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by thewishkah View Post
For the lower ball joints should I just get the ball joints or just buy new arms with the balls already pressed in? the ball joints are $30 at autozone for greaseable ones. The endlinks are kind of pricey though and I want to hold off on those till absolutely necessary.
Rock Auto has a set of greasable Raybestos for $36 each. If you do a search you can find a 5% discount code and save yourself some more money. I know that when I looked for mine AutoZone wanted $40 each, and they are non-greasable.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 12:41 PM
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Buy the whole unit. Check prices at www.rockauto.com Do a search for the latest Rockauto discount code....it's here somewhere on the board.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 12:43 PM
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Rock Auto has a set of greasable Raybestos for $36 each. If you do a search you can find a 5% discount code and save yourself some more money. I know that when I looked for mine AutoZone wanted $40 each, and they are non-greasable.
Wow! You beat my post by four minutes! Guess we're on the same wavelength!

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 05:04 PM
 
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like mentioned, its much easier, and more cost effective to buy the whole unit. I think it's like $40 for the ball joint itself, and something like $58 or so for the whole LCA. The labour and tools involved in changing the ball joint wouldn't be worth it.

I wish i knew about that discount earlier lol.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 06:12 PM
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If anyone needs a valid 5% RockAuto discount code, I'll be happy to share it - just PM me!

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-18-2009, 09:31 PM
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Or... you can look at this thread:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=36386&page=4

-Brandon
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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wow I guess there price for the lca is much better then that at autozone which wants like 107 or something like that. Is it actually that hard to press out the old ball joint?
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 12:24 PM
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Even if you have your own 20 ton press, it's still a pain, and with the new LCA's you also get new inner bushings and lower shock bushings installed.

BTW, Greasable joints are usually of inferior quality, the stock TRW LCA's, and the stock end links, both have sealed joints, and are of much higher quality.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 02:08 PM
 
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you don't need a 20 ton press, there is a tool available, looks like a C-clamp with a cup on the bottom.

either way, the new bushings are also a bonus.

you guys are lucky you're not in Canada, it's $179 for a new LCA, and thats an economy brand.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-19-2009, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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I am not to worried about longevity of the parts if I can get them cheaper and have them last me a year or so I'll be happy as I plan to have a new car by then.
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