The strut tension rod nut is on the backside of the LCA facing the firewall. It has a rubber protector on it or its supposed to if it doesn't and it is the first mounting point closest to the wheel on the LCA. The subframe nut and bolt is at the end of the LCA (opposite of ball joint side) and mounts to the subframe also know as the the (camber bolt). With the subframe nut and bolt you have to use a wrench or socket on both sides to prevent the bolt from spinning. If you are going to attempt this get a good light and mark your camber position with whiteout or something. These marks are on the plate attached to the head of the bolt almost like a big oval washer and it moves as you loosen the bolt so keep an eye on it. The good thing is because its oval it wont spin all the way around. Remember the head of the bolt faces the fire wall.If the mark moves try to get it as close as you can to the marks you made with the whiteout. Remember go over everything that came off while the control arms were changed: Strut bolts on LCA, Ball joint nut, etc. Just check everything with the suspension period.
ok, those all look good, when I did the control arm replacements, I marked the camber, and it's all back in the right spot, tight and not the cause of the problem then.
My strut rod is also in good apparent shape, including the bushing.
This knocking sounds like it could be coming from the left side, as it always seems more prominent when I hit bumps on the left side of the car, but it also seems to come from the entire front, or maybe somewhere on the left side, close to middle, right around the driver, just ahead of the seat.
I'm so lost on this one.
Oh yeah thats exactly how mines did. A loud pop and felt like something shifted and the wheel is about to come off or something. Scared the hell out of me everytime. I dont know the exact torque specs on everything but I do know that my Strut tension rod and Subframe bolts were pretty lose and could tell that it needed tightened more. If you have the rubber stopper on the end of the strut tension rod (facing the firewall)just make sure it at least goes on to where it is flush with the thread on the end of the rod. My threads poke out probably a couple centimeters past the rubber stopper. Don't know if it is exactly right but it doesn't pop and shift anymore.
it doesn't do it all the time, it's actually kind of rare, but sometimes when I pull into my parking spot, when I turn the wheel it kind of makes some sort of light clunk, or pop when I turn the wheels back straight.
I'm starting to think that it's related to whatever the hell is loose under my car.
I wish I had some kind of idea so I would know what to check......but as it is now the camber bolt, and the strut rod bushins seem ok, and shouldn't be the cause of this noise.