UCA/LCA Replaced.... Still knocking.... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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UCA/LCA Replaced.... Still knocking....

so I was "looking forward" to replacing my UCA and LCA on the drivers side today, thinking it would clear up the rest of my knocking suspension, and to my amazment it hasn't.

Everything sounds exactly the same, I'm not sure the control arms were the cause....so now I don't know what to do the swaybar end links seem sturdy and don't move or have any play when I reef on them.....

so what do I do now??? I was hoping to have it all cleared up by winter but im not so sure now if I can since I don't know what the hell is knocking now.

any suggestions?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:34 PM
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Strut rod bushings.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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if that's the one on the arm with the flat spot that connects from the front of the car/chassis to the empty hole in the LCA, then I'm not so sure that's it either. even those are in great shape and don't appear to be rotton, cracked or otherwise damaged or loose.

I'm going to have to see if I can get a video with the sound to maybe help identify it, but I still would like to know what to check, and how to check it. I gotta find this knocking and put an end to it.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJohnny View Post

Everything sounds exactly the same, I'm not sure the control arms were the cause....so now I don't know what to do the swaybar end links seem sturdy and don't move or have any play when I reef on them.....
That don't mean they aren't bad though.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 07:35 PM
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That don't mean they aren't bad though.
+1 Informative.

Take one of the endlinks loose; you will find that the top joint is frozen, and the bottom one rattles easily.


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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 07:46 PM
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Could be a subframe bolt, or the upper spring mounts also.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 08:36 PM
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+1 on checking the endlinks. Mine looked okay and even felt fine off the car - but my clunking was coming from them because it went away after I replaced them. If you want to be sure before throwing money at new parts, just remove both sides entirely and drive around for a while to see if it makes noise.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 09:46 PM
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I also have the same problem. I replaced my UCA's, and endlinks but I'm still hearing the damn racket. It is a OT less than it was before though. I took a rubber mallet and lightly started tapping suspension parts and found that my inner tie rods are making noise. The strut rod bushings (strut side) look to need replacement, but the frame side looks pretty good. I need to dig a little more and find where the noise is EXACTLY. I hate throwing parts at a car but with 151K on it, they will need replacement soon anyway.

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok I got some video, it isn't the best, but the knocking can be heard, however it doesn't sound exactly the same, its a pretty good representation.

PLEASE TURN BASS DOWN OR ALL YOU WILL HEAR IS MY EXHAUST....the camera really picks up the bass for some reason, it isn't actually that loud.

Knocking starts around 1:12 or so. Then about 1:20 you hear my IAC acting up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZaaGcqtx8E
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Strut rod bushings.
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Originally Posted by SCTbird1994 View Post
Could be a subframe bolt, or the upper spring mounts also.
These are what I have found to be common areas to cause popping or clunking.Also the lower spindle upright bushing can cause this.Settling of the suspension after working on it can do it.I'd put about 10 miles on the clock after suspension work and recheck if it's still noisy.

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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 08:30 PM
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That almost sounds exactly like mine, although not as often as yours. Can you feel it in the floorboards?

I'm going to be replacing the strut rod bushings(control arm side) this week because they look fubar'ed. Even if they dont look all that bad, it could be problematic because you have a metal sleeve on the inside and you cant tell what the bushing looks like on the part that's actually inside the control arm.

I also know that my inner tie rods are making some of the noise and they will be replaced as well. I do one thing at a time though so I KNOW what fixed the problem for next time(if there will be a next time), or someone has the problem here.

John
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-09-2009, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Here is another video, this one is probably the best one for what I'm hearing, how bad it is and what it actually sounds like.

Again, as with before, please turn the bass down if you can because otherwise you only hear exhaust.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sJru1YjISg
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2009, 02:13 AM
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It kind of sounds like an upper shock mount bushing or spring isolator.Have you check those?

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2009, 02:35 AM
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It sounds like it does it when the road gets rough. Have you replaced strut mounts. I did the struts and mounts when I had that noise and horrible bounce in the struts and that stopped it. I recently changed LCAs and didn't torque down the strut rod nut and the LCA subframe nut and bolt enough after resetting suspension. It popped loudly when I begin to roll and turn the steering wheel especially backing up and when I stopped hard. I torqued both points down more and everything else on the suspension to make sure and no more pops. Hope this helps man
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2009, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
 
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hey mine makes noise too when I turn the wheel, sounds like a popping or something shifting and then hitting something else.


Where exactly are these nuts/bolts I should be checking??

I dont know which ones they are by name, and I don't know how to check if they are loose cause everything I check seems to be tight, but obviously something isn't ...
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2009, 06:23 PM
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The strut tension rod nut is on the backside of the LCA facing the firewall. It has a rubber protector on it or its supposed to if it doesn't and it is the first mounting point closest to the wheel on the LCA. The subframe nut and bolt is at the end of the LCA (opposite of ball joint side) and mounts to the subframe also know as the the (camber bolt). With the subframe nut and bolt you have to use a wrench or socket on both sides to prevent the bolt from spinning. If you are going to attempt this get a good light and mark your camber position with whiteout or something. These marks are on the plate attached to the head of the bolt almost like a big oval washer and it moves as you loosen the bolt so keep an eye on it. The good thing is because its oval it wont spin all the way around. Remember the head of the bolt faces the fire wall.If the mark moves try to get it as close as you can to the marks you made with the whiteout. Remember go over everything that came off while the control arms were changed: Strut bolts on LCA, Ball joint nut, etc. Just check everything with the suspension period.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2009, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJohnny View Post
hey mine makes noise too when I turn the wheel, sounds like a popping or something shifting and then hitting something else.


Where exactly are these nuts/bolts I should be checking??

I dont know which ones they are by name, and I don't know how to check if they are loose cause everything I check seems to be tight, but obviously something isn't ...
Oh yeah thats exactly how mines did. A loud pop and felt like something shifted and the wheel is about to come off or something. Scared the hell out of me everytime. I dont know the exact torque specs on everything but I do know that my Strut tension rod and Subframe bolts were pretty lose and could tell that it needed tightened more. If you have the rubber stopper on the end of the strut tension rod (facing the firewall)just make sure it at least goes on to where it is flush with the thread on the end of the rod. My threads poke out probably a couple centimeters past the rubber stopper. Don't know if it is exactly right but it doesn't pop and shift anymore.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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The strut tension rod nut is on the backside of the LCA facing the firewall. It has a rubber protector on it or its supposed to if it doesn't and it is the first mounting point closest to the wheel on the LCA. The subframe nut and bolt is at the end of the LCA (opposite of ball joint side) and mounts to the subframe also know as the the (camber bolt). With the subframe nut and bolt you have to use a wrench or socket on both sides to prevent the bolt from spinning. If you are going to attempt this get a good light and mark your camber position with whiteout or something. These marks are on the plate attached to the head of the bolt almost like a big oval washer and it moves as you loosen the bolt so keep an eye on it. The good thing is because its oval it wont spin all the way around. Remember the head of the bolt faces the fire wall.If the mark moves try to get it as close as you can to the marks you made with the whiteout. Remember go over everything that came off while the control arms were changed: Strut bolts on LCA, Ball joint nut, etc. Just check everything with the suspension period.
ok, those all look good, when I did the control arm replacements, I marked the camber, and it's all back in the right spot, tight and not the cause of the problem then.

My strut rod is also in good apparent shape, including the bushing.

This knocking sounds like it could be coming from the left side, as it always seems more prominent when I hit bumps on the left side of the car, but it also seems to come from the entire front, or maybe somewhere on the left side, close to middle, right around the driver, just ahead of the seat.

I'm so lost on this one.

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Oh yeah thats exactly how mines did. A loud pop and felt like something shifted and the wheel is about to come off or something. Scared the hell out of me everytime. I dont know the exact torque specs on everything but I do know that my Strut tension rod and Subframe bolts were pretty lose and could tell that it needed tightened more. If you have the rubber stopper on the end of the strut tension rod (facing the firewall)just make sure it at least goes on to where it is flush with the thread on the end of the rod. My threads poke out probably a couple centimeters past the rubber stopper. Don't know if it is exactly right but it doesn't pop and shift anymore.
it doesn't do it all the time, it's actually kind of rare, but sometimes when I pull into my parking spot, when I turn the wheel it kind of makes some sort of light clunk, or pop when I turn the wheels back straight.

I'm starting to think that it's related to whatever the hell is loose under my car.

I wish I had some kind of idea so I would know what to check......but as it is now the camber bolt, and the strut rod bushins seem ok, and shouldn't be the cause of this noise.

Last edited by BigJohnny; 11-14-2009 at 09:41 AM.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 11:02 AM
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Did you check your sway bar endlinks? As in, replace or remove completely?

I have a feeling my steering gear is making some noise. I get a sound in turns only on occasion; I suspect the tie rods are at fault. Not sure of inner or outer however.

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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 01:18 PM
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Did you check your sway bar endlinks? As in, replace or remove completely?

I have a feeling my steering gear is making some noise. I get a sound in turns only on occasion; I suspect the tie rods are at fault. Not sure of inner or outer however.
I agree,but the steering rack bushings could be bad.

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok, I looked under there today, and started reefing on stuff. I had the car on a ramp, so I was under it, I grabbed my sway bar right under the oil pan and yanked down....sure enough, I hear a bit of knocking. Now i'm only a human, with limited strength but I could see how this might be the sound I'm hearing when 2 tons of car is doing the shaking and bumping.

a little inspection reveals that my end links could use replacing, they appear to be loose much like a bad ball joint would be. The rear ones could also use replacing.

At this point i'm wondering if there is a bushing kit I could get and how hard it would be to replace some of those things.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 08:09 PM
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+1 Informative.

Take one of the endlinks loose; you will find that the top joint is frozen, and the bottom one rattles easily.

You mean these endlinks?


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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 10:54 PM
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Here is the END LINKS.

Here is the POLY SWAY BAR BUSHINGS.

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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buddy, those things are like $45 each from SCP..... rockauto has them for like $13 each. I know it's not the same quality but at this point I cant afford $180 USD plus shipping and conversion and brokerage fees to replace those.

also if I'm going to replace bushings, would it be a good idea to go with a larger swaybar while i'm in there. I figure I'll have to remove stuff it might be the time to go with a larger bar.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 04:39 PM
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Yes,I know they can be gotten cheaper,but it was the only link I could find to them.

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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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I can find a price for the bushings, and i'm still trying to figure out if changing them would be the time to put in a larger swaybar.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-15-2009, 10:59 PM
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I can find a price for the bushings, and i'm still trying to figure out if changing them would be the time to put in a larger swaybar.
If you are considering a sway bar upgrade,I would do that instead of only replacing bushings.Either way,the K member needs to be lowered a few inches to replace the bushings or snake in the new sway bar.

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 06:39 PM
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If you are considering a sway bar upgrade,I would do that instead of only replacing bushings.Either way,the K member needs to be lowered a few inches to replace the bushings or snake in the new sway bar.
I didn't need to lower my k member to replace the bushings.

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