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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Lower Control Arms - F/R

FSM says to use new nut on bolts that hold arm to sub frame when installing new front lower control arm. Is this really necessary?

With the front, and the rear lower control arms as well, am I correct in thinking the proper way to torque the arms after installation is to have the vehicles' wheels on the ground. Is this correct? This seems like it will be difficult to do, as I do not have ramps to put the vehicle on.

Also, it was very difficult getting the rear lower control arm bolts loosened; I already had my differential removed for replacement, and I don't see how I can get torque on those bolts with it installed - floor clearance is the problem here. With the differential removed I had room to get a cheater pipe on my breaker bar, but this does not appear possible without putting the car on a drive up lift. I don't see any good option other than having the car towed to a mechanic when I have it all back together, and have them torque all suspension bolts - anyone have any advice/tricks or alternative methods?

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 10:32 AM
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The car will need to be aligned anyway, tighten them up and bring it to an alignment shop.

lowered, koni sport adjustables, 4.30 tl in aluminum housing, mark 8 trans, j-mod, 93 mark viii ds, antenna hole=gone, kooks headers 1.75" primaries, 2.5" catless duals, midmount magnaflow, 96-97 sport wheels with 255/50/16 sumitomo HTR Zs, optima in the trunk, new motor...94 mark 6/6/08
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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So just torque everything while its in the air?

Unrelated question, what kind of grease should I use when installing new rubber swaybar bushings?

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 11:23 AM
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No, tighten them with weight on the tires. It might be difficult given your workspace, but it isn't impossible.

lowered, koni sport adjustables, 4.30 tl in aluminum housing, mark 8 trans, j-mod, 93 mark viii ds, antenna hole=gone, kooks headers 1.75" primaries, 2.5" catless duals, midmount magnaflow, 96-97 sport wheels with 255/50/16 sumitomo HTR Zs, optima in the trunk, new motor...94 mark 6/6/08
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 01:56 PM
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Torque

Hello

Well I have done it 2 ways.

While in the air(jack stands) I place a jack under the lower ball joint raise untill the weight is off that corners stand. Torque!
Repeat as needed.

OR

When I am checking toe & camber(string & ruler) I put the car on Building blocks.
That gives you about an additional 8in.

If you torque when the suspension is unloaded the car will act funny.
The rubber bushings are holding the car up.


Paul [email protected]
1990 Thunderbird Circle Track Street Stock
351W 2bbl.
C-4 Auto
3.90 open rear
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 06:40 PM
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I've done it the same way as Tbirdtess has described as well.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 04:47 PM
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For the hardcore, there's only one way to do this: the car must be on the ground at or near ride height, under it's own weight. Then torque all the suspension fasteners to spec. The nuts are one time use, self locking. Use new ones.

Mitch
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 06:11 PM
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Reuse

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchB View Post
For the hardcore, there's only one way to do this: the car must be on the ground at or near ride height, under it's own weight. Then torque all the suspension fasteners to spec. The nuts are one time use, self locking. Use new ones.

Mitch
Good advise.

I don't know how many times I have reused my Bolt & nuts.

But I am changing & reseting my suspension parts al the time.
I just purchased new lower control arm & Knuckle bushings.


Paul [email protected]
1990 Thunderbird Circle Track Street Stock
351W 2bbl.
C-4 Auto
3.90 open rear
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