Front toe will not stay? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Front toe will not stay?

My front end has a noticeable toe out; with one wheel straight, the other side is what I'd say roughly 3-5 degrees out. I've tried adjusting it, but it will go right back to being toed out as soon as I drive it. My alignment all around has been quite off, and I'm tired of my car eating tires. Front toe is the only thing that when adjusted, does not stay.
New ball joints all around, tie rod ends have no play. Sway bar end links and strut rod bushings are the only things that need replacing. The only thing I can think of that would cause this is something inside the steering rack, but I've never seen inside one of these so how possible is that?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 05:54 PM
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The only thing that could cause that is a loose/worn part. The 'rack' part of the steering rack is one piece. Take a bar and try to pry up on the outer tie rods. Sometimes a worn joint will pop up a little, but slide back onto the ball and seem 'tight'. I would check the outers and inners again. Try measuring from the same tread on the tires front and back and get a rough estimate of where your toe is really at. A total toe of approximately 3 to 5 degrees negative would render a street car nearly undriveable. Aim for about 1/16-1/8 toed in and drive around and re-check. I say approximately 1/8-1/16 because using a tape measure is hardly accurate anyway, but should get you in the ballpark. Good luck!

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Last edited by coolhandzep; 02-24-2010 at 06:00 PM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 06:40 PM
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what about the inner tie rod?

are you adjusting it on ground without skidpads? you can make plates using 2 plates of metal and putting salt inbetween them then putting the front tires on them

strut rod bushings can wreck havon on alignment big time, its easy enough to change them, once you change them out you'll kick yourself for hesitating, its really not difficult at all, I give it 1/5 wrenches, just takes a little time.

also have you bothered to check your wheel bearings? pick the front end of the ground and lock the steering wheel, the tire should move but not very much

also, when you adjust the toe is the suspension loaded? you want any slack to 'fall back' when adjusting the toe, so that means don't jack up the front end or anything to set the toe

btw.. are you adjusting the toe correctly? you need to hold the inner tie rod with vicegrips and back out the locking nut, then tighten or loosen the inner tie rod into the tie rod end, once you got the wheel pointing where you want, tighten back down the locking nut

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-26-2010, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolhandzep View Post
The only thing that could cause that is a loose/worn part. The 'rack' part of the steering rack is one piece. Take a bar and try to pry up on the outer tie rods. Sometimes a worn joint will pop up a little, but slide back onto the ball and seem 'tight'. I would check the outers and inners again. Try measuring from the same tread on the tires front and back and get a rough estimate of where your toe is really at. A total toe of approximately 3 to 5 degrees negative would render a street car nearly undriveable. Aim for about 1/16-1/8 toed in and drive around and re-check. I say approximately 1/8-1/16 because using a tape measure is hardly accurate anyway, but should get you in the ballpark. Good luck!
Will check everything again later today when I get a chance in the shop. And I probably am wrong on how far off it is, but the tires show a noticeable wear from incorrect toe. Also I thought negative was toed in, and positive was toed out (what I have right now)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by decipha View Post
what about the inner tie rod?

are you adjusting it on ground without skidpads? you can make plates using 2 plates of metal and putting salt inbetween them then putting the front tires on them

strut rod bushings can wreck havon on alignment big time, its easy enough to change them, once you change them out you'll kick yourself for hesitating, its really not difficult at all, I give it 1/5 wrenches, just takes a little time.

also have you bothered to check your wheel bearings? pick the front end of the ground and lock the steering wheel, the tire should move but not very much

also, when you adjust the toe is the suspension loaded? you want any slack to 'fall back' when adjusting the toe, so that means don't jack up the front end or anything to set the toe

btw.. are you adjusting the toe correctly? you need to hold the inner tie rod with vicegrips and back out the locking nut, then tighten or loosen the inner tie rod into the tie rod end, once you got the wheel pointing where you want, tighten back down the locking nut
It's on a drive-on lift resting on turning plates, but I have no other alignment equipment.
I do need to get the strut rod bushings taken care of, as they are getting worse and I'm putting more miles on my car driving to a new job. I'll probably do those this weekend.
I haven't checked the wheel bearings recently, but I did check them the last time I did front suspension work (about two months ago) and they were good then. Might as well go ahead and check them again while I'm there.
And I believe that is how I've been adjusting it.

I dunno. I'll play with it over the next few days and see how it goes.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-26-2010, 09:38 AM
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Positive is in, negative is out for toe.

lowered, koni sport adjustables, 4.30 tl in aluminum housing, mark 8 trans, j-mod, 93 mark viii ds, antenna hole=gone, kooks headers 1.75" primaries, 2.5" catless duals, midmount magnaflow, 96-97 sport wheels with 255/50/16 sumitomo HTR Zs, optima in the trunk, new motor...94 mark 6/6/08
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