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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Tokiko spring/shock kit

I am looking at this

http://www.thmotorsports.com/tokico/...1/i-56665.aspx

It's the Tokiko "blue" kit with springs...any experiance with this product? The price is right, and I want to go with something different than the cut spring/koni/kyb setup on there now

Your thoughts?

thanx

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 05:10 PM
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 05:32 PM
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Even if you don't go the Ebay route, www.shox.com has the same item for $259.00. You'll find a few guys on here who run those . Better than KYB, but not as good as Koni.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 05:46 PM
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On shox.com the same item is $449. The item for $259 is just shocks/struts only- no springs. Ebay link is shocks/struts only too.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 06:20 PM
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The pn for the kit is hpk221. I am about to buy this kit tonight. The best price I came up with is from "yoparts.com." $360+24 for shipping. Never ordered from them before, I'll let you know how it goes.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I definately want the springs with it...

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 10:12 PM
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Why would you downgrade koni's to tokico garbage?


And I have tokicos, they are garbage.

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 10:28 PM
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I just bought new Koni's for $515 shipped.


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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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well i don't like the cut springs as for the shocks i feel that if i am changing everything else i might as well do new shocks i want them the same all the way around, plus if this car blew out the stock shocks and the kybs then it must at least have been hard on the konis i would be fine wit loni adjutable alltea around with some other springs just assessing my options

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 12:03 PM
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The stock shocks and KYB's blew out because they arent designed to be used on a lowered car with the higher spring rate. Koni's last for a very long time because they are set up for that in mind

Tokico shocks wear out fast btw, even with their own springs.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 02:40 PM
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i noticed the koni's only say they allow for a 35mm drop but the ST springs i looked at are a 40mm drop. would that cause a blow out?

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl View Post
well i don't like the cut springs
What don't you like about the cut springs? (Too stiff, my guess)

I'm thinking about this; yours are sport springs, right?

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Why would you downgrade koni's to tokico garbage?


And I have tokicos, they are garbage.
Guess it's all a matter of opinion. I love my Tokico Blues. Found the Koni's to be harsh and had poor damping in hard cornering after just 2 or 3 corners. Maybe I had a bad set. Don't know anything about the springs though.

Brad

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
What don't you like about the cut springs? (Too stiff, my guess)

I'm thinking about this; yours are sport springs, right?
too stiff, too low for day - to - day use...bouncey in weird ways, if I hit the gas just right, for some reason, I get wheel hop out of the front drivers side wheel...I don't know if that's messed up spring rates or what

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 01:37 PM
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how do you get wheel hop from a front wheel

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 05:24 PM
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how do you get wheel hop from a front wheel
He has the ultra-rare FWD MN-12 lol

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 06:00 PM
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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how do you get wheel hop from a front wheel
no it's weird, the wheel will lift off the ground for a second...it DOES feel like FWD wheel hop...I don't know what the issue is...could be that not all springs where cut exactly the same or something I don't know...

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 09:37 PM
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The pn for the kit is hpk221. I am about to buy this kit tonight. The best price I came up with is from "yoparts.com." $360+24 for shipping. Never ordered from them before, I'll let you know how it goes.
Well, did you get the kit yet? I'm pretty sure I want to run this setup on my Mark8. The price it pretty good, thoughts please ;-)
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
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Guess it's all a matter of opinion. I love my Tokico Blues. Found the Koni's to be harsh and had poor damping in hard cornering after just 2 or 3 corners. Maybe I had a bad set. Don't know anything about the springs though.

Brad
I concur on that one my Ebach springs and Tokico blues work great on my bird

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 12:51 PM
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I don't know what the issue is...
I would say frame flex; I've seen that on a lot of cars... That were making a ton of horsepower.

I've seen a car twist itself in half at ~1200 hp. Dude could not weld, lol.

The only thing I can think of that would cause that otherwise is a really loose unibody. Something is twisting up to move the wheel like that.

Do you have any braces? I'd look to see if the mounts are moving around, or if any of the more common areas are cracked. (IIRC, the firewall above the tranny and the area behind the driver are pretty common.)

You know, you mentioned having konis; if the rebound damping is too high, you can pick a wheel up pretty easily. Take it to a big deserted parking lot and adjust on it, see if it changes. More important, make sure they are set the same on both front wheels.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 01:32 PM
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I've never ridden in a car with the Tokicko springs, but I just did the coil conversion on my MarkVIII using the Tokicko blues and the Eibachs. For the lincoln they are perfect, still soft enough to ride like a lincoln, but stiff enough to help the handling some. On a car where you care more about handling though and don't mind a stiffer ride, I still think the cut SC/sport springs are the way to go.

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 01:38 PM
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Mikey you hit the nail on the head on the Eibachs & Blues on my bird. Have been very pleased with the setup

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would say frame flex; I've seen that on a lot of cars... That were making a ton of horsepower.
Well that's not the issue...I'm not making a ton of power


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The only thing I can think of that would cause that otherwise is a really loose unibody. Something is twisting up to move the wheel like that.
possible...I'll get the car on a lift here pretty soon and look at everything...

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Do you have any braces? I'd look to see if the mounts are moving around, or if any of the more common areas are cracked. (IIRC, the firewall above the tranny and the area behind the driver are pretty common.)
Rear strut tower brace and a larger rear swaybar, KYB (soft) in the rear, front is all stock, not braced, but has adjustable koni's

Quote:
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You know, you mentioned having konis; if the rebound damping is too high, you can pick a wheel up pretty easily. Take it to a big deserted parking lot and adjust on it, see if it changes. More important, make sure they are set the same on both front wheels.
I have tried them at super tight all the way soft, mid way, and everything in between....it all feels weird honestly. As for getting them "the same" on both sides...I think they are, but it's hard to tell since there are no detents (click) in the adjustment, so, it would be very easy to make one just a little different than the other

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 01:33 PM
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I've never ridden in a car with the Tokicko springs, but I just did the coil conversion on my MarkVIII using the Tokicko blues and the Eibachs. For the lincoln they are perfect, still soft enough to ride like a lincoln, but stiff enough to help the handling some. On a car where you care more about handling though and don't mind a stiffer ride, I still think the cut SC/sport springs are the way to go.

Hey Mike, what did you do for spring perches on the rear of the Mark? DLF has some nice perches made out of delrin but they are $300 for a set. Would be nice not to have to spend that much for perches.......

How much did the Eibach's lower your Mark? The Tokico springs say 1.25" drop.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 01:41 PM
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Most Eibachs 1.5 These are good 1999-04 Cobra IRS Coil Spring Insulators

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-11-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
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I have tried them at super tight all the way soft, mid way, and everything in between....it all feels weird honestly. As for getting them "the same" on both sides...I think they are, but it's hard to tell since there are no detents (click) in the adjustment, so, it would be very easy to make one just a little different than the other
I'd go to full soft, and see if the wheel still picks up.

Get photos from both sides, and post em up; the hardcore racers here have seen a ton of launches, and so should notice anything weird...

Every car I've seen that lifts a wheel tries to bury the opposite one; seeing how far they go will tell a bunch.

Wasn't there a pic of a mustang somewhere twisting bigtime off the line? Seems like it was during a discussion of FWD cars...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 12:47 AM
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hey earl have you considered a busted motor mount?

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 07:17 AM
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For the lower perches, early 89 cars had stamped steel control arms instead of cast iron, so I cut them out of a set of those. Once they were out, we welded a pipe that was the same diameter as the hole in the bottom of the Mark LCA to the inside of the perch from the stamped steel arm. I also put a thick bead of RTV around it so it won't make noise. Once everything was all together, we cut off the pipe about 1/4" below the arm, and used a hammer to peen over the pipe so it can't come out of the control arm. For the upper perches, I cut a set out of a Tbird, and just welded them in, so now everything is basically the same as a stock tbird. The nice thing about doing it this way is it was free, but that's only because I happened to be parting out a 96 tbird and an 89 cougar. If you can find an 89 cougar or tbird in a junkyard and grab the LCAs and the upper perch out of it, that would be a good cheap way to get it done.

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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 08:04 AM
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For the lower perches, early 89 cars had stamped steel control arms instead of cast iron, so I cut them out of a set of those. Once they were out, we welded a pipe that was the same diameter as the hole in the bottom of the Mark LCA to the inside of the perch from the stamped steel arm. I also put a thick bead of RTV around it so it won't make noise. Once everything was all together, we cut off the pipe about 1/4" below the arm, and used a hammer to peen over the pipe so it can't come out of the control arm. For the upper perches, I cut a set out of a Tbird, and just welded them in, so now everything is basically the same as a stock tbird. The nice thing about doing it this way is it was free, but that's only because I happened to be parting out a 96 tbird and an 89 cougar. If you can find an 89 cougar or tbird in a junkyard and grab the LCAs and the upper perch out of it, that would be a good cheap way to get it done.
OK, that is a cheap/effective way to go. Problem for me is I don't have the time to track down a junked tbird/cougar. So, Once I get the springs/struts bought I'll either buy DLF's rear perch kit or fab something on my own.
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