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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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The old lady is angry!

I'm pretty sure that my girlfriend doesn't like the fact that we live 10 minutes away from the Summit Racing Superstore. I was bored today while she was at work. So I just ran down to Summit to see what I could find. So I came home with a new 1-1/4" sway bar from Addco. Unfortunately, I probably won't be able to put it on til next weekend. But I'm going to try and put it on tomorrow. I can't wait!
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 04:20 PM
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Good bar I have the same

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 04:33 PM
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I am assuming from the lax tone you mean the rear bar, its a good bar have both f/r. And that is a good thing I dont live near that store, or worse I could work there.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 07:10 PM
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I'm about 20 minutes from SLP

I think I would not be able to have a check card if I lived that close to Summit.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 07:19 PM
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My woman would have me under house arrest if I lived that close. It is bad enough that I have the resources of the internet at my disposal. hehe

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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yes, u are correct its the rear sway bar. i plan on doing the exhaust next. then maybe a set of koni's. the front sway bar will probably be last.

however, i now have a new problem. i let her drive the car this week (i totaled hers a few weeks ago) and now i need to do a wheel bearing on the left rear. so quick question, is the hub supposed to separate from the knuckle? and if so how? i have the puller on it, but it is pulling the entire knuckle instead of just the hub.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 08:42 PM
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yes, u are correct its the rear sway bar. i plan on doing the exhaust next. then maybe a set of koni's. the front sway bar will probably be last.

however, i now have a new problem. i let her drive the car this week (i totaled hers a few weeks ago) and now i need to do a wheel bearing on the left rear. so quick question, is the hub supposed to separate from the knuckle? and if so how? i have the puller on it, but it is pulling the entire knuckle instead of just the hub.
Well theres your first problem - totalled her car.

Rear wheel hub bearing .. you need to remove the knuckle from the vehicle and use a 12 or 20 ton shop press to remove the hub, then bearing from the knuckle. Sounds like you're part way there getting the half shaft out of the hub to remove the whole knuckle.

http://www.sccoa.com/articles/rearwheelbearing.php
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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ok thanx. i wasnt sure if the knuckle and hub could be separated with out the press
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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ok, anything else i should replace while the knuckle is off of the cougar?
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 10:58 AM
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yes, u are correct its the rear sway bar. i plan on doing the exhaust next. then maybe a set of koni's. the front sway bar will probably be last.
.
Cant say I have done it on a mn12 or any car with an Independent rear end.

But on a car with a live (straight) axle if go you to that big of a rear bar with out upgrading to a bigger bar in front you will have one ill handling ride.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Cant say I have done it on a mn12 or any car with an Independent rear end.

But on a car with a live (straight) axle if go you to that big of a rear bar with out upgrading to a bigger bar in front you will have one ill handling ride.
it looks like we will find out possibly this afternoon. from what i have read of others experiences with this set up, it just makes the front end feel a little sloppy. But if i don't like how it handles, i will just have to wait a couple weeks til the next check and go grab the front bar.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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ok i have another question now that i have finished the driver side wheel bearing. so, i took it out for a little test drive after i got everything back together. when i went into corners it still felt very sloppy. when i got back i checked the driver side to see if it felt tight. it did. so i checked the passenger side. when i took the center cap off, i noticed grease around the hub area on the wheel and the halfshaft nut was loose. that caused the tire to wobble. so i tightened that down and everything feels tight there is no play in the tire or anything. everything felt fine on the second test drive. but i am wondering if that grease is from the wheel bearing. and if it is does that mean i have to change it?
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 06:43 PM
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i would be in some much trouble with the bank if i lived 10 min from summit racing.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 12:39 AM
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ok i have another question now that i have finished the driver side wheel bearing. so, i took it out for a little test drive after i got everything back together. when i went into corners it still felt very sloppy. when i got back i checked the driver side to see if it felt tight. it did. so i checked the passenger side. when i took the center cap off, i noticed grease around the hub area on the wheel and the halfshaft nut was loose. that caused the tire to wobble. so i tightened that down and everything feels tight there is no play in the tire or anything. everything felt fine on the second test drive. but i am wondering if that grease is from the wheel bearing. and if it is does that mean i have to change it?
Sounds like the passenger side has gone bad also and needs to be replaced. The nuts loosen when they go bad - any nut that has backed off needs to be replaced with a new one and inspect the bearing. Wiggle the wheel while it is up in the air to check the bearing. The nuts need to be torqued to 250 ft lbs to fully seat the bearing.
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 01:42 PM
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I live 10mins from all three Jegs and an hour or so from the summit he is talking about.

Sadly I have no women to fuss haha

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like the passenger side has gone bad also and needs to be replaced. The nuts loosen when they go bad - any nut that has backed off needs to be replaced with a new one and inspect the bearing. Wiggle the wheel while it is up in the air to check the bearing. The nuts need to be torqued to 250 ft lbs to fully seat the bearing.
yeah i tried to wiggle the tire in the air and it felt solid. both of the nuts have been tightened to 250lbs and both sides feel good now. should i still replace the passenger side?
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 08:14 AM
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yes, u are correct its the rear sway bar. i plan on doing the exhaust next. then maybe a set of koni's. the front sway bar will probably be last.

however, i now have a new problem. i let her drive the car this week (i totaled hers a few weeks ago) and now i need to do a wheel bearing on the left rear. so quick question, is the hub supposed to separate from the knuckle? and if so how? i have the puller on it, but it is pulling the entire knuckle instead of just the hub.
Right there is your way out! Just tell her the rear sway bar was done with her in mind because she had to drive it. From personal experience she probably won't buy it, but it sounds good. I live about ten minutes North of Summit so i tend to run into the same problem as you with the store so close. On the brightside, i've had tons of experience at coming up with "thoughtful" excuses as to why i was there...
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Right there is your way out! Just tell her the rear sway bar was done with her in mind because she had to drive it. From personal experience she probably won't buy it, but it sounds good. I live about ten minutes North of Summit so i tend to run into the same problem as you with the store so close. On the brightside, i've had tons of experience at coming up with "thoughtful" excuses as to why i was there...
yeah i drag her up there a lot of times just to look at stuff on the discount rack
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 04:21 PM
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yeah i tried to wiggle the tire in the air and it felt solid. both of the nuts have been tightened to 250lbs and both sides feel good now. should i still replace the passenger side?

If it feels nice and tight and the nuts are New + tightened to spec they should be good to go. Id replace old nuts for peace of mind. Just re-check it again soon and make sure its not backing off any.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-27-2010, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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thanx guys
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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ok so i got the swap done yesterday and the car feels great! i don't think that i have seen any side by side pictures of the old compared to the new. so i took a few.





I do have one more issue though. It sounds like the sway bar is creaking when i go over bumps slowly. any reason why the bar would do that? could my end links be too loose?
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 02:57 AM
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I do have one more issue though. It sounds like the sway bar is creaking when i go over bumps slowly. any reason why the bar would do that? could my end links be too loose?
Grease the bushings?

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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yep
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 07:54 AM
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End links may be loose , Mine are good and tight and not a sound from my suspension front or back

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