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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Steering Rack

Well since the motor is out, I decided to replace the steering rack. Well after getting it in there, there doesn't seem to be enough threads on the inner tie rods to adjust the toe enough.

If I remove the lock nuts I believe there would be, but that would worry me. Maybe that is the way the replacement is designed to work .

Anyone else run into this?


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 10:36 PM
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No, My new rack was the same size.

I always lay new parts next to the old part, and look for differences; I've been down that road before, lol.

The best one was the brake rotor that was 1/4" in dia bigger; it exactly wouldn't allow the caliper to bolt up...

My new one still has the locknuts on there; I wouldn't think an alignment shop would do one with them missing, they'd complain.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-21-2010, 11:26 PM
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I didn't have any issues when I did mine. Did you take the old one back for the core charge already? I don't remember any issues with mine. How are you determining how far the outer should be screwed onto the inner?

It's only funny until someone gets hurt.
Then it's freaking hilarious.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 10:29 AM
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Does the other side have way too many threads? Maybe it wasn't centered.

Drive it like you stole it!

Last edited by frankjc; 03-22-2010 at 10:37 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Does the other side have way too many threads?
Nope.

The nuts used are thick. I think some thinner units would probably work.
And it looks as if the unit is built with the intention to not use the nuts.

I compared the units and all looked the same except for the threads on the rods. I thought it would be close from the git-go.
I counted how many turns to take the ends off.

It is not centered at the moment either. I think I will try again with the rack in the center. That was just being stupid on my part when I hooked the steering shaft on.

I still have the old unit.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 03:32 PM
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Sorry, I just assumed that one side had more adjustment than the other. I wonder if it's the wrong one.

Drive it like you stole it!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I just assumed that one side had more adjustment than the other. I wonder if it's the wrong one.
No I understand. Maybe I could have gotten wonky. But alas it isn't.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 05:09 PM
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How did you decide how far to twist on the outer tie rods? Number of turns, or a measurement? If it was by number of turns, maybe the new inner tie rods are a different length, and you don't have to put the outer TR on as far? If you still have the other rack, take one of the outers, put it back on the old rack by the right number of turns, center the rack as best you can, then measure from some fixed point on the rack to the outer TR. Put the outer TR back on the new rack, repeat, and see if it ends up on a different spot on the threads.

It's only funny until someone gets hurt.
Then it's freaking hilarious.


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