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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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MOOG or Motorcraft

In the not to distant future I need to replace both upper & lower controll arms.

I'm on an Explorer forum and the consenses there is MOOG is not what they use to be and to avoid MOOG.

I will most likely get everything from RockAuto as local prices are outrageous.

O'Reilly's wants $97 ea for uppers and $100 ea for lowers in MOOG. You have to call for pricing on Motorcraft and are special order. Screw that.

So let me here your opinions.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 10:49 AM
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The consensus here is that it's either Moog or Motorcraft (TRW); everything else is a waste of money and time. So either Moog or Motorcraft - whichever you can get your hands on - will do just fine.

Tascaparts.com has pretty good prices on Motorcraft components, check them out too.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LOLA View Post
In the not to distant future I need to replace both upper & lower controll arms.

I'm on an Explorer forum and the consenses there is MOOG is not what they use to be and to avoid MOOG.

I will most likely get everything from RockAuto as local prices are outrageous.

O'Reilly's wants $97 ea for uppers and $100 ea for lowers in MOOG. You have to call for pricing on Motorcraft and are special order. Screw that.

So let me here your opinions.
I went to O'Reillys in Kingsport TN and the TRW ones were $46/each

(Hint: If you remove the factory ones from your car, they are stamped TRW)

There's only maybe 3 companies that seem to make UCAs, the rest either rebuild or relabel.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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O'Reilly's only listed MOOG, Motorcraft, Valucraft (their house brand) and Rareparts.

Both the MOOG & Motorcraft on RockAuto are neck & neck for price.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 11:26 AM
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Weird...down there at least they had valuecraft for ~$50 and the TRW ones listed as "OEM" and they were in a brown paper box.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 02:52 PM
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O'Reilly's only listed MOOG, Motorcraft, Valucraft (their house brand) and Rareparts.

Both the MOOG & Motorcraft on RockAuto are neck & neck for price.
Rockauto kinda sucks with LLT warranty! lol I found an old receipt from 2003 and was able to exchange the UCA under warranty at Advance. Just love it.
And, 2-3 years ago i started to take a copy of the actually receipt since they like to fade the ink.

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TRW is just fine, more with a lifetime warranty

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 06:23 PM
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So what's the functional difference between TRW, Motorcraft, and the "house" brand?

I broke a tie rod end today (car slipped off the jack while before I could get the jack stand under it, fell on the jack stand, and broke the inner tie rod off. So, since I have to replace the tie rod, and get it aligned, I may as well do the upper and lower control arms to fix my noisy ball joints. I'm not racing the car, and I'm not opposed to buying what I can afford "right now" to replace it with better later on down the road.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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So what's the functional difference between TRW, Motorcraft, and the "house" brand?

I broke a tie rod end today (car slipped off the jack while before I could get the jack stand under it, fell on the jack stand, and broke the inner tie rod off. So, since I have to replace the tie rod, and get it aligned, I may as well do the upper and lower control arms to fix my noisy ball joints. I'm not racing the car, and I'm not opposed to buying what I can afford "right now" to replace it with better later on down the road.
I've been down that road as well as others I'm sure. Buy quality and do it once. It will cost more to do it twice within a couple years.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 09:18 PM
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I know this has been discussed in great detail already.....so we don't really need to start that up again....but, what about the UCAs and LCAs (and other suspension parts) from supercoupeperformance.com ? Haven't I read on here that they are also good quality parts? They seem to be fairly priced with a good warranty, etc.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tailwind_91 View Post
I know this has been discussed in great detail already.....so we don't really need to start that up again....but, what about the UCAs and LCAs (and other suspension parts) from supercoupeperformance.com ? Haven't I read on here that they are also good quality parts? They seem to be fairly priced with a good warranty, etc.
My only issue with bill at scp is he refuses to release what brand they are, and I refuse to trusy my life to cheap junk. So until he releases what brand they are I can't justify buying them. All he says about them is the aren't cheap eBay junk, hard to know that 100% without knowing the brand. I run moog on my own car currently.

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 04:45 AM
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My only issue with bill at scp is he refuses to release what brand they are, and I refuse to trusy my life to cheap junk. So until he releases what brand they are I can't justify buying them. All he says about them is the aren't cheap eBay junk, hard to know that 100% without knowing the brand. I run moog on my own car currently.
SCP front end parts from Bill are what's on the 95 you now have...I agree fully...always wanted to know what they where...I can't say I wouldn't buy them again, as long as they last, but I had them on the car less than a year...they've been on that car for a year and a half now, how are they holding up?

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 12:17 PM
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SCP front end parts from Bill are what's on the 95 you now have...I agree fully...always wanted to know what they where...I can't say I wouldn't buy them again, as long as they last, but I had them on the car less than a year...they've been on that car for a year and a half now, how are they holding up?
Are those the sUPER THiCK, made in China junk ones ???
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 12:51 PM
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 03:04 PM
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Are those the sUPER THiCK, made in China junk ones ???
I can't remember...they had no castings on them as far as lettering brands, etc. from what I recall....could not identify and he won't tell so who knows...I don't know what I'll use on this car yet...

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 03:15 PM
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Over the past few months I've heard a few people giving SCP a bad rap. From what I've seen, the prices are high and the part quality is unknown - As Chris said above, Bill has been known to get hostile and defensive when asked for the brands of the parts he sells. I'd just steer clear as a whole; I would never go out and buy mystery parts for my car.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 05:20 PM
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Over the past few months I've heard a few people giving SCP a bad rap. From what I've seen, the prices are high and the part quality is unknown - As Chris said above, Bill has been known to get hostile and defensive when asked for the brands of the parts he sells. I'd just steer clear as a whole; I would never go out and buy mystery parts for my car.
well they are good for some things though...it's not all bad...my big 650.00 parts shipment for the front end rebuild was missing...something, I can't remember what exactly, and when I called he sort of acted like he didn't believe me, it was something like I was missing ONE swaybar end link...he sent a new one out, but he sounded reluctant and unhappy about it...so that was kind of unfortunate...on the bright side I did receive the part within a couple days...

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 08:52 AM
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I've been down that road as well as others I'm sure. Buy quality and do it once. It will cost more to do it twice within a couple years.
Well I priced everything up and I simply can't afford to buy everything. So I'm replacing the inner tie rod with a locally purchased TRW unit and getting a cheapie alignment on it. Then I'll save up for the upper and lower control arms and put them on and get it realligned later.

Speaking of upper and lower arms, I know one of my rear arms is bad on the passenger side, but I can't find them on RockAuto.com. Anyone know what to look for?
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 08:56 AM
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There aren't any ball joints or control arms to replace on the rear, just look for replacement bushings. If one of the arms is physically damaged you'll need to take one off a donor car.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 04:16 PM
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There aren't any ball joints or control arms to replace on the rear, just look for replacement bushings. If one of the arms is physically damaged you'll need to take one off a donor car.
They're not damaged as far as I know, just loose. You can wiggle the wheel.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 04:40 PM
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There aren't any ball joints or control arms to replace on the rear, just look for replacement bushings. If one of the arms is physically damaged you'll need to take one off a donor car.
I was looking to replace all of my front bushings and went "screw it" after I realized that buying all of the bushings separate was more expensive than buying new control arms.

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 07:23 PM
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If you can wiggle the wheel I would check the wheel bearings.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-25-2011, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Brining my own thread back from the dead

I finally bought upper control arms this week. Yea so much for the distant future

I ended up going with Moog. I plan on using the existing bolts but what I found weird is the new UCA's came with only one bolt & nut. The boxes hadn't been opened so I don't know what gives.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 04:38 AM
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I believe they all come packed this way, you get a new pinch bolt.

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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I believe they all come packed this way, you get a new pinch bolt.

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Is the factory pinch bolt knurled below the bolt head? The one that came with the UCA is.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 10:15 AM
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Is the factory pinch bolt knurled below the bolt head? The one that came with the UCA is.
Yeah, you have to tap it out.

It has to come all the way out for the uca to come out of it, btw.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-26-2011, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know. My Mountaineer's pinch bolt just slides out so I figured the Birds & Cougars did too.
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