Can a RSTB be installed too tight? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Can a RSTB be installed too tight?

I installed a RSTB yesterday, and when I first drilled the holes, something caused the drill to slip and I ended up with the holes on the passenger side being a little out of whack.

Since I didn't want much exposed metal(I don't want rust) and didn't want to bother trying to weld and redrill the holes, I just made them all 1/2" holes and bolted the bar in with 1/2" socket cap bolts.

There is a gap of about 1/4" between the wheel wells and the side mounting spot on the RSTB, so I put a 1/2" layer of 65 durometer rubber type material to fill in the space and make it even.

I had to hammer the bar in there until the material would compress.

Now, once I had the big bolts in I tightened them by hand until I couldn't, then used an impact gun to give nut another rotation.

Like I said, there is a big solid chunk of compressable, but STIFF material, but I'm mostly concerned about the side mounting bolts, since the top mounting bolts would be pushing the RSTB down onto those bolts, and because of the gap between the side, those bolts would pull really tight on the side.

So, long rambling story short, can one of those things be bolted in too tightly? is there a suggested torque rating to tighten the bolts to?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 01:07 AM
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Rstb?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
Rstb?
Rear Strut Tower Brace, and O.P., no, I don't think that you really can overtighten it....

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 03:35 AM
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The AFDB is on a lil tight.
 
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Just tighten it to a pretty firm tightness on a ratchet. I have one and you just need to just lock up the nuts with loc tight or just torque them til tight. Its been fine for 2 years.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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I was just worried about pulling the body out of shape(shock towers, not so much the body) or putting too much shear force on the side mounting bolt by tightning the top too much. I used a layer of 1/8" stiff padding for the top just so it wasn't metal on metal, and the big gap is filled with 1/2" total of stiff padding again. 1/4" on each side.

With such a big gap between the sides of the brace I could imagine that if it was too tight it would be pulling on the sides of the shock towers a lot, or pulling on the bolts too much.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 07:57 AM
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rear bar

Hello

My bar is welded in place. also with a X cross to the door bars.
All home made.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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up to the package tray??

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blade Runner View Post
Rear Strut Tower Brace, and O.P., no, I don't think that you really can overtighten it....
I see.

Quote:
So, long rambling story short, can one of those things be bolted in too tightly? is there a suggested torque rating to tighten the bolts to?
3/8 or 7/16 or 1/2" and are you using grade 5 or 8 or what?

You could use nylock locking nuts and tighten them up on the conservative side, letting the nylock keep them locked in place ... or double nut them.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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1/2" bolts, not sure what grade though. They are socket cap bolts, the ones that use a hex key.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 12:15 PM
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IMHO, yes you can get it "too tight" like you are describing.

Anytime you "load" the chassis/frame, that stress has to get relieved somewhere else. That “place” is usually the sheet metal. If severe enough, those stresses can cause cracks.

Will it give you a problem? I have no idea.

I would pull it out and, take what you have to a welder and modify what you have using the holes you have already drilled.

But just my .02.

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