Lower strut bolt removal - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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Lower strut bolt removal

Finally putting in the struts I bought in December, but although I got the lower bolt nut off easily, the bolt itself is jammed in the bushing, and the head of the bolt is kinda rounded off. Can I just wail on it with a hammer to back it out of the control arm, or is the bolt threaded to something somewhere? Hints?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 08:03 AM
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The lower shock mounting bolt truly is a pain. The bolts themselves have a bit of a concave taper to them, and as time wears on the inside of the sleeve rusts away, causing it to kind of cave in on the bolt which holds it there.

Lots of PB-blaster, patience and a hacksaw is what I used. Load it up with blaster, let it sit for a few, then whack it out as far as you can. If you can, try to turn the head counter-clockwise to get the threads to help loosen up some of the rust to make it easier to get out. Repeat until you can see the inside end of the taper, then saw the head off. Knock it out from the other side, and voila.

You will need to re-open the bore of the inside of the sleeve somehow, more blaster and a pick (I used a flat-blade screwdriver) will help get it cleaned out.

-Brandon
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by shumbody View Post
Finally putting in the struts I bought in December, but although I got the lower bolt nut off easily, the bolt itself is jammed in the bushing, and the head of the bolt is kinda rounded off. Can I just wail on it with a hammer to back it out of the control arm, or is the bolt threaded to something somewhere? Hints?
Ahh another upstate NY strut bolt. Welcome to hell. Its cold welded to the sleeve from all the wonderful salt they throw on the roads. Taking out all your frustration with a large hammer helps, heating it up (but be careful about destroying the rubber), PB Blaster (not that helpful, because its so long but it can't hurt).

I've found wedging a good screwdriver or chisel between the bolt head and strut to help a bit. Another trick is to tighten up the bolt using a very long breaker bar with all your strength (idea is to stretch the bolt and break rust bonds). Maybe try that first.

Also if you look very carefully at the sleeve, it has a joint where you can wedge a small screwdriver to expand the sleeve while you pound and maybe spray some pb there.

Last edited by tbirdguy; 04-07-2012 at 12:12 PM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 10:53 AM
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Hello

You could replace the lower arm as well?
That's if that bolt comes out!lol

get an SC arm


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 12:34 PM
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most things been said already. PB Blaster, BFH, I got myne out by taking a sawzall to the bolt on each side of the LCA then once its out of the car completly take it over to the vice and you can pretty much press it out. or replace the whole LCA. most likely the lower ball joint is shot anyways.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2010, 06:31 PM
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I used an air chisel to get mine out.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 04:26 AM
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where can you get a replacement bolt? Is this something that can be found in a hardware bin, or from Ford only?

Thanks,
Dan
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 09:32 AM
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I realize this is an OLD thread, but I'm trying to locate a replacement bolt as well. Did you happen to located one?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 09:38 AM
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It's the Monroe AK68. Try these guys. http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/p...FdNzMgodYXEAvA

-Brandon
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 12:16 PM
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Mine never came out, but I was replacing the LCAs anyway.
Had to buy new ones. A friend that works at a Ford parts counter pick up a set. I thought he said they fit something else newer so they were still available?
I anti-seized the crap out of em when I put the new stuff together.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Fashioned_Cat View Post
I anti-seized the crap out of em when I put the new stuff together.
This will make sure it comes apart easy next time.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 08:37 PM
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Thanks guys! I'm trying to replace my LCA and this is the ONLY thing stopping me from finishing it. Passenger's side was done in an hour and a half. Fire and force were useless, so now power tools come into play. Now that I know I can replace that bolt, I'll get to it.

1996 Thunderbird LX 4.6L 147,000 mi.
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1979 Ford Bronco Custom 5.8L Modified 188,000 mi.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 10:00 AM
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I found it at Oreilly as PN: AK68 for $13. By the way, the OEM# for this thing is N808998S436, but they're sold in a pack of 4, at $13.13 each.

Now to take the saws-all to the old one and get that sucker out of there.

Thanks again for reviving a two year old thread!

1996 Thunderbird LX 4.6L 147,000 mi.
Mods: Stock

1979 Ford Bronco Custom 5.8L Modified 188,000 mi.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2547728
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 12:36 PM
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Just an update for anyone who stumbles across this in the future, NO ONE has this part anymore except Ford direct, and only in packs of 4. I had to bite the bullet and go direct, but decided that I'd sell 2 of the four to anyone who wants them. Below is my thread if anyone needs one like I did.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...46#post1477646

1996 Thunderbird LX 4.6L 147,000 mi.
Mods: Stock

1979 Ford Bronco Custom 5.8L Modified 188,000 mi.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2547728
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