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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I should've listened!

Well, I should've took the advice of all I've read here through my searches. I just replaced my upper control arms, lower ball joints and frame side strut rod bushings along with a set of Eibach springs. My first driving impression was "Great! No more clunking!" Then I started to hear a little clunk now and then, and it got progressively worse to the point that it sounded just like it did before. I got it to the alignment shop and the tech put it on the rack, then called me back to have a look at something. One of the strut rod bushings I'd installed just yesterday had already split apart and was crumbling to pieces! Cheap Chinese crap is all that I can say about them. They were the "OE Brand" from Advance Auto Parts.

On my way home I stopped by the parts store to show them and the first thing out of their mouth was "Looks like you over tightened them." I asked how I could do that when there's a steel sleeve inside that the washers bottom out on before the correct torque is reached, and why did one side crumble while the other side appeared fine? After a little haggling I talked to the store manager and he agreed they were crap bushings and he'd order the Moog brand for me.

Moral of the story is listen to the experience of others and don't buy the cheap bushings or you'll be doing the job twice; maybe even doing it again the very next day like me!
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 09:25 PM
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Wow.

Thanks for sharing your story.

Agreed go OEM or do it again...

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 09:59 PM
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Moog are crap for the strut rod as well.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-17-2010, 10:33 PM
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hey chris, how are the front suspension pieces holding up on the 95? i'm curious how the scp pieces hold up over time...since those have been on the car almost two years now...

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 03:52 AM
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Lowers look great, uppers need replacing, endlinks need replacing, everything else looks good.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 10:13 AM
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I put on moogs when i bought my car. They are holding up just fine. The guy before i bought it put on OE brand and I bought moog on the way home from buying the car.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 10:32 AM
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Moog is fine for UCA's and LCA's but you want OEM for the frame and LCA side strut rod bushings.

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. Fusion® Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Well I just put the Moog's on mine and they seem to be much, much (!) better than the OE Brand that I had originally put on it. They may not last as long as the OEM rubber bushings but I feel I'm a whole lot better off now than I was before. Maybe later I'll try to score a set of OEM rubber bushings. I did save the originals just in case I needed the metal parts. Seems like I read on here that the originals (bushings only) could still be bought for around $40, but if you had to buy the whole shebang it was more like $240

The thing with the OE Brand bushings that should've tipped me off right away was how freakin' hard they were. I mean they were nearly the consistency of hard plastic. I thought to myself "These are never gonna last, but it's what I can afford so I'll get 'em now and upgrade later." I'm just glad they failed so quickly because I would've been severely ticked off if I'd have just paid $80 for an alignment only to have to do it again because of those crappy bushings. It would seem that at my age I'd have learned by now: Buy good parts and pay up front or buy cheap parts and pay more later by chasing down problems and "putting out fires."
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 11:24 AM
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im sorry unless you buy the factory ford ones there junk there not made near the same i can tell you that the aftermarkets are just junk

www.robstireandauto.com for all your car needs and parts
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 11:40 AM
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The moog bushings won't help, they are the same crap.
Alan

/broken record

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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So what you guys are telling me is that the Moogs will split and fall apart too? Great, something else to look forward to. On the other hand if they last a year or two I'll be in a better financial shape and can afford to revisit this area and go with the OEM rubber ones.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 11:52 AM
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the oem ford ones at control arm are far superior than aftermarket junk also a the frame the oem ford shine compared to the aftermarkets ive seen the brand new aftermarts rip thru the frame in one hard stop

but just my 2 cents ui wish u luck

www.robstireandauto.com for all your car needs and parts
95 bird corn powered 735rwhp and 580 tq
86 bird vortech s trim
10.75 @128.38
95 bird - Vortech t trim
9.98 worlds fastest IRS 4.6 thunderbird
1/8 [email protected]
10.11 @ 139.19 best mph
1.47 best 60ft if I can get a full pass with this 60ftt
All made possible with Braincoating'™s ported manifolds
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 12:40 PM
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Its true, the blue moog thermoplastic strut rod bushings arent worth a crap. Motorcraft bushings are black rubber and install with no problems. It has been many years and they are still in one piece!
-Rob

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 02:42 PM
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factory ford ones are by far the best. moog is alright if u don't mind replacing them every year
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Murder View Post
Lowers look great, uppers need replacing, endlinks need replacing, everything else looks good.
Would you say that's faster than normal wear when compared to the OE ford stuff?

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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Well, so far the Moogs have held up twice as long as the OE Brand did


















I know history shows they won't last as long as the factory ones, but this is what I have for now so I'm gonna roll with it. When the time comes I'll throw some OEM bushings in there


P.S.-Off topic question: What the heck is with all the pop-ups when I accidentally move my mouse over a highlighted word?
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 02:04 PM
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The site was recently sold to a company, the paid members aren't supposed to see them but we still do....
Alan

DirtyDog Performance.Com
Proud sponsor of the SC/XR7 Shootout and Joel Bender Memorial Nats

Please do not send me messages on forums they are too hard to keep up with and I don't check in very often anymore call me at 513 898-1580 or email me alan at dirtydogperformance.com
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LDiablo View Post
P.S.-Off topic question: What the heck is with all the pop-ups when I accidentally move my mouse over a highlighted word?
It's how Authority Auto Network makes it money - the guy that bought the site from Sir William (and is paying Sir William to host it, go figure.)

/me LURVES some AdBlock

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