Strut rod bushings conflicting information - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Strut rod bushings conflicting information

Here on this forum it is recommended to only use Ford bushings for the FRAME end of the strut rod. Anything aftermarket or polyurethane will just fall apart. Then I see people talk about the "3A187" kit for the frame end like here on post #7 and when googled it shows up as being for a 65-66 mustang like this one. It doesn't look like a Ford part. Is there any way that Ford could have put the same bushings on our cars as a '65 mustang??

On scp's website they say to never use the moog part on the LCA side of the strut rod. Supposed to be inferior. But listed over here it shows a moog part number for a bushing kit for the LCA side of the strut rod.

So which end is it?? I was going to replace them this weekend while doing some other work on the front end and this is getting terribly confusing.

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 01:09 PM
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The correct Ford part # for the strut-rod bushing KIT for the frame-side of a MN12 Thunderbird/Cougar is E9SZ-3A187-A. Do NOT just Google 3A187; that is just a group number for that TYPE of part that Ford has assigned to it. You need the entire part number to be MN12 Thunderbird/Cougar specific.

Be prepared, though - that kit retails for at least $230 PER SIDE! If you find a dealer that already has them in stock though (and probably has had them for years), they will probably sell them to you much cheaper. I just got two of those kits and paid $52 for one and $60 for the other!

Do NOT use aftermarket parts for this part!! Trust me; I did (NAPA) and have had nothing but problems!

Dennis
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 01:10 PM
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The 3A187 kit is the complete kit for the frame side that include the bushings, ferrule and washers. That is what you want if you are replacing everything. If you can get the ferrule off without damaging it, you can just get the bushings and be fine. The part you linked to looks like the correct part, but it is not the Ford kit.

I wouldn't use any thermoplastic pieces period, and the Moog K8680 kit for the LCA side is just that. Aftermarket bushings on the LCA side are fine, but I would stick with rubber no matter what.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 01:19 PM
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The part numbers for the Ford rubber bushings for the LCA side of the strut-rod are E9SZ-3A140-A and E9SZ-3A140-B, and you will need (2) of each part number. The bushing with the part # ending in the letter A retails for $12.39 each and the other bushing retails for $12.50 each (at least as of 2/17/2010 they did).

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 01:22 PM
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That is what you want if you are replacing everything.
That is also what you want/NEED if, like me, you were a complete idiot and threw away all the old, original parts when you replaced them with cheap NAPA parts!!

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Hope my metal tube is alright. Just ordered the bushings individually from my local Ford dealer. They said retail on the "3a187" kit was $159.

Ok, my lca to frame bushings are bad, and sometime in the last few months the boots on the lower ball joints blew out. My car steers itself when I hit the brakes, mostly to the right. It started making grinding noises when turning or bouncing the front end. I know the bushings are bad but I can't tell if the noise is from them or the ball joints. I read a thread about a ball joint failure, got freaked out, and just parked it till this weekend. There were so many people chiming in with the same experience!

My plan for this weekend is to replace the ball joints in my lca's, press in new polyurethane lca to frame bushings from scp, and replace all the strut rod bushings with new Ford bushings while I'm there. Does this sound like a good plan?

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 07:18 PM
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Locate (but don't buy yet!) a set of lower shock bushings. Also, locate the upper control arm assemblies, in case your old ones are FUBAR - or headed that way.

That will leave just the sway bar end links, if I've counted properly

Oh - and check your shocks.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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I did the uppers last fall, the sway bar links a couple months ago, and just before that I installed the tokiko 1.25" spring/shock package. Come to think of it, I don't think I even looked at the shock bushings when I installed the kit. I didn't notice anything wrong with them. I will try to find the closest replacements though. Really want this front end to be DONE for a while.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-06-2010, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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One of the O- O- O- o'reilly's near me has them in moog. I was just thinking of it, man I always have to do it the hard way. I'm going with ford strut rod bushings, ball joints from autozone, bushings from sct (teh innanets), and now maybe another bushing from o'reilly. Someone should slap me...

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 08:27 AM
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One of the O- O- O- o'reilly's near me has them in moog. I was just thinking of it, man I always have to do it the hard way. I'm going with ford strut rod bushings, ball joints from autozone, bushings from sct (teh innanets), and now maybe another bushing from o'reilly. Someone should slap me...
okay..





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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Ha! A computer must be like a mirror. The guy's right hand goes in, and his left hand comes out! *Rick James voice* "What did the fiive fingus say to the face??"

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its the internet, get over it.

Last edited by whitedevil666; 07-07-2010 at 10:09 AM. Reason: these "<>" apparently leave stuff out?
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 08:33 AM
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lol!

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Got my Ford strut rod bushings today. They look pretty good, but I don't see why some aftermarket manufacturer can't make an acceptable form of this. It looks good, just not complicated.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Got my ball joints from vatozone today (along with a new battery for the 4runner...) I got their ball joint press too. Then I came home to find my poly bushings came in from scp. So now I got all my toys for the project. I plan to get up extra early saturday and get to it before it gets hot as ****. Today I remembered that this is going to screw up my alignment, so I had my guy at work tell me how to turn on the alignment machine at work. I have only medium confidence of my succeeding in a perfect alignment with it. Last time I tried to align the 4runner and I could never get it perfect. It will be easier on the bird I'm sure, but we'll see. I may have to haul my parts up there anyway to use the press if the ball joint press doesn't do it. In fact if it rains I'm packing my tools and headed up there to use a lift. Wish me luck!

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 08:28 PM
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WhiteDevil - What part of Texas are you in, and could I rent your shop for a weekend to do the rest of the rear bushings on Sweetie's Cougar?

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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I'm between Dallas and Fort Worth. It's a dealership, they probly won't let me rent it out. Its ok from time to time for a saturday afternoon project.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 07:13 AM
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I was going to ask the same thing...only to use the alignment machine though....

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well I ended up taking it to the shop. I thought it was going to rain but it never did. I found out a few things. Never trust anyone else to work on your car. I found the lower control arm bolt loose on the passenger side. That's why I thought the bushing was bad. The whole thing was able to move around... I decided to replace all the stuff I had anyway. I do see why people just buy the control arm assembled too. The ball joints are in there reeeel good. Those bushings were surprisingly hard to press out too. I was glad to be able to use the big press for it. I thought I didn't bring any wrenches big enough to take the strut rod off but was able to use crescent wrenches. I call them "mexican micrometers." But they worked and I'm glad they did. All that crap is new now and I shouldn't have to worry with it for a few years. I even had success on the alignment machine. I cranked the strut rods all the way forward then half a turn back to increase the caster. I like caster. I ended up with just a little over 8 degrees of caster, 1.0 camber, and set the toe at -.05 on both sides. It drives really good with no noises. The wheel is off to the right by just a hair. It looks straight if your driving on a road with a crown to it. Speaking of crown, I think I have a new project for tonight... Aww crap, I guess we don"t have that smiley that takes a drink. Oh well! Let the drinking begin!

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-11-2010, 12:55 AM
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I'm between Dallas and Fort Worth. It's a dealership, they probly won't let me rent it out. Its ok from time to time for a saturday afternoon project.
Heh. Would almost be worth the 200 mile each way trip. Beats the hell out of laying on my back under the car, or using the BFG to drive bushings out and in.

Plus an alignment afterwards! Why, that's about the same price as the gas I'd need to get there and back ...

Naw, just a'joshin' wid'ja. But it would be tempting if you were in, say, Marshall. Or even Longview.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-11-2010, 12:42 PM
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Be sure that the weight is on the suspension when you tighten all the bolts; it makes a huge difference.

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-11-2010, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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You know, I forgot to do that with the shock to lca bolts. I did have the lca to frame bolts loose on the rack of course because they are eccentrics. The bushings for the shock mounts looked really good so I left them in. Torqued the piss out of 'em too. I'm thinking of getting the oil changed a little early and I may re torque them on the lift.

Oh I forgot to ask. Is there a curtain way the strut rods are designed to sit? I just put the bends straight down.

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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-11-2010, 06:28 PM
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Be sure that the weight is on the suspension when you tighten all the bolts; it makes a huge difference.
That's everything, all bolts? Pinch bolts for the upper ball joints, tie rods, etc? I'm putting everything back together now and really need to know this.

From what I've been reading here, it's best to jack up the suspension under the lower control arm until the car lifts off the jack stand. Then torque away! Correct me if I need to do this another way!

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-11-2010, 11:11 PM
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The only bushing I am aware of that will bind if the suspension is not loaded is the lower shock mounting bolt.

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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
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Oh I forgot to ask. Is there a curtain way the strut rods are designed to sit? I just put the bends straight down.
Yes, that's the correct way. That's how they are mounted from the factory (at least, on my T-Bird they were that way)! I put them back on that way and will again this weekend when I replace those cheap-a** NAPA strut-rod bushings with Ford OEM parts!

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-15-2010, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I hoped it was right, it feels fine. I drove the car on the highway about 45 miles each way to and from a training class a couple days ago. My alignment is pretty close. It feels so much more solid having the poly lca bushings and new strut rod bushings in there. The new ford strut rod bushings looked to have an updated design on the frontmost one. It was "pointier." Once torqued down it compressed a lot and now is pretty tight. Now I need some seats, brakes, then the engine swap starts...

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