My bird shakes when I hit the brakes on the highway. - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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My bird shakes when I hit the brakes on the highway.

I am having a bit of a problem with my bird. This has been going on for sometime, and I always thought it was the brakes. Now that I have replaced the brakes, I realize that it must be something else. My car never shakes, unless I am going down the highway and I hit the brakes going 50mph or more. What do you think this could mean? I'm thinking its time for new struts and an alignment. I know it needs both.

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 06:56 PM
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Rotors r warped

Oh my goodness!!!!
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 06:57 PM
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When you say you replaced the brakes, you just mean capliers/pads, right? That's a sure sign of some effed up rotors.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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The rotors look great to me. They are shiny and smooth. I will check them out though. I haven't really touched them to feel the texture. Thanks guys!

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 07:25 PM
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you cant see warped rotors, you feel them replace those bad boys

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 08:22 PM
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most definately rotors like everyone already said

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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrz View Post
you cant see warped rotors, you feel them replace those bad boys
^What he said.

And when you replace the rotors replace the brake pads too because they'll be worn unevenly and/or damaged.

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 10:06 PM
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A couple tips for rotors: do NOT cheap out on them! I went the cheap route and blew the money I would have spent on a single good pair of rotors on two sets of cheap ones before I realized my mistake. You'll also want to properly bed in the new brakes to maximize their effectiveness and to help prevent possible warping later.

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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If I do it myself, how much does it usually cost to replace both rotors and brake pads? I can feel a few lines on the rotors when I touch them.

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 08:22 AM
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I have had good luck with Autozone Duralast Gold rotors DGR54010 $48 each

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 09:11 AM
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I chased that problem with mine ended up the upper ball joints were causing it. Changed them and no more shake also stopped it from pulling during braking. Rotors are usually the main cause for this but no stability in the front end due to worn parts causes all kinds of problems as well.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 12:26 AM
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I found rust on my front hubs where the center hole of the rotor sits on the hub flange. I had the same shake when the brakes were applied. I had a friend turn and check the rotors, he said they were fine. When I nutted them to the hubs and spun the assembly they wobbled. A closer exam found the scaley rust that was enought to keep the rotor from seating flat against the hub flange. 30 minutes with a chisel, sand paper and metal prep cleaned them up so the rotors now sit flat and run true. I'm using napa premium rotors, pbr calipers and carbon met pads. I've stood on the brakes from 80 down to 0 several times and they still run perfect without any shake or wobble.

Rick
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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I found out what was causing the problem. My suspension is completely shot. It shakes all the time now, and when I took it to the mechanic, he said I needed new sway bars, tire rods, struts and more. So I am parking it, until I can get enough money to fix it all. I wish it was the brakes haha. Oh well, I love my bird and I am going to get it fixed, regardless of all its major defects.

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 01:21 AM
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I seriously doubt you need new sway bars unless yours are completely rotted through. More likely you need sway bar endlinks. Along with bushings, ball joints, etc.

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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That's possible, I didn't get to write everything down and he was hard to understand. I am going to get a second opinion from my regular mechanic.

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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 02:41 PM
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When I bought my '97 T-Bird last year with 143,000 miles on it, it was making the WORST knocking sound from the front-end when going over bumps that I ever heard and I thought something was about to fall off! It turned out to just be worn sway-bar end-links. I replaced them and ended-up, for peace-of-mind, just replacing the ENTIRE rest of the front suspension (springs, shocks, UCA's, LCA's strut-rod bushings, inner & outer tie-rod ends) - now, the car rides so nice I think it's better than when it was new! Gets your worn parts replaced - it'll make a world of difference!

My wife says the T-Bird rides better than her 2007 Pontiac G6!

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 09:11 PM
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I can agree completely with the above post. I spent the weekend under my 97 Thunderbird replacing the UCA's, inner and outer tie rods, oil, pads and rotors. The passenger side UCA was the hardest, and I was shocked to see that my 1992 Mazda Protege has bigger pads on it than the Thunderbird. I think a mustang brake conversion is in my near future. She sure does ride straight and true now (after an alignment), and feel much more stable on the road. I do need to replace the sway bar end links on the passenger side (should probably do both actually) as the bushings are torn to heck, they look fairly simple, two bolts per side. Anyone know of any complications with that?
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 06:25 PM
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Getting the old one out seems to be the problem. Search is your friend.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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So, do you think this is something I could take care of myself? I have a few relatives that help me with my car all the time. If I could figure out what needs to be replaced. Sway bar endlinks, tire rod ends and struts I know for sure. I heard that you needed some sort of spring compressor to replace the struts on this car. The mechanic said that the front wheels are vibrating all the time. I haven't driven it since I brought it home from the mechanic, because I don't want to mess anything else up. The prices I am being quoted to fix this problem are just out of my reach at the moment. Thanks in advanced! -Kevin

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 04:42 PM
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You only "need" a spring compressor for installing the rear springs (and there are even ways to get the job done without one), no compressor will be necessary for replacing the front coilover shock assemblies. After you release the tension on the upper control arm by removing it from the spindle (and after unhooking the sway bar endlink), the shock will fully expand and the entire assembly will just slide right out.

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 07:24 PM
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The strut rod bushings will do this as well, there is allot of pressure on them when hitting the brakes at high speed.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
You only "need" a spring compressor for installing the rear springs
That's dangerous for the front's. I would recommend a wall-mounted compressor to properly install the springs and the mount. You also dont need a compressor for the rear, with everything unbolt, simply push down-wards on the Rear LCA (I used both of my feet while sitting on a stool), then install the spring. Done.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 08:08 PM
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There is only one spring compressor I will use for these long and dangerous springs, the branick. I have one under the snap on name. It has a safety guard in front of it so that the spring cannot leave the compressor. I know a guy who's head is half smashed in from one of these springs trying to use the loaner tools from autozone.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthraxBird View Post
That's dangerous for the front's. I would recommend a wall-mounted compressor to properly install the springs and the mount. You also dont need a compressor for the rear, with everything unbolt, simply push down-wards on the Rear LCA (I used both of my feet while sitting on a stool), then install the spring. Done.
Definitely need one if you're removing the spring from the shock, but I was referring to removing the entire shock/spring assembly from the vehicle.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 09:56 PM
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Ahhh. I have seen people remove the spring from the shock while still in the vehicle.. =P

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 10:04 PM
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-22-2010, 08:30 PM
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Hey Kevo,

I had the same problem recently. I ordered all my parts from rock auto and redid the whole front suspension. I got the monroe quickstruts and they work amazing. Ride is super smooth. What the problem was for me was my upper ball joints, the springs were cracked close to the lower cup the spring sits in and last but not least, the caliper bracket was siezed up. I suggest you take a close look at the caliper bracket and make sure those pins move freely. Hope this helps out!
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-28-2010, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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I will take a look at that Shadow21, Thanks!

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 11:41 AM
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I have done both my son's T-Bird & Daughter's MK VIII front ends. Both are high mileage & just replaced everything, upper/lower control arms, struts, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar end links, & strut rod bushings (front & rear). The MN12 is one of the easiest front ends I've worked on. Took 2 evenings to complete one car. They ride like new now. Depending on where you purchase your parts, prices can be $350 - $700.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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If I knew anything about suspension, I would do it myself. However, I am going to have to get a mechanic to do it, I would only make things worse.

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