Front strut to control arm bushing help - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Front strut to control arm bushing help

Thanks to all on the other thread for you help in getting my front end apart and together.

I have a Moog replacement bushing that goes through the lower control arm and attaches to the strut bottom. I do not however have a press or any desire to take the arm off the vehicle. What's the best way to press in this bushing w/o removing the LCA? Is there an alternative two part design that is held in place by the bolt so that I can avoid pressing in the one I have? I know replacing the whole arm is an option, but I am just about done with nasty. frozen rusty bolts. Advice?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 06:55 PM
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Well I have a drivers side one that is totally blown. I am going to just buy another arm. You would probably need a press or air hammer to knock these babies out. Last time I bought one of these Moog bushings it was like $17 and I could get a whole arm for like $50. I threw the bushing in the trash when I found out how cheap the arms are.

-Rob
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Can I use grease on the bushing or will that screw up its positioning after I start driving on it?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 12:35 PM
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I almost always use grease or antiseize when I press something in. It always seems to go easier that way.

-Rob
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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I used dish soap which didn't work all that well.
Bushing completed. Used a bench vise which obviously was not on a bench and a 3/4 pipe coupling to get the bushing
in, but got to within a half inch and it wouldn't go any further. So I went to the store and picked up a 1/2" bolt 6" long, a 9/16" washer x2, the 3/4 coupling for the push side; then a washer with a hole big enough for the ferrule in the bushing to go through, another 3/4" coupling, another 9/16" washer and a nut for the receiving side. Tightened it down with ratchet and then a torque wrench about 135 ft/PBS worth. Looked perfect when done. And very happy to be done.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:15 PM
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Awesome buddy! Sounds like something I would do with the vise, lol. Its going to be a very good feeling to drive around on that new bushing

-Rob
RIP '94 Amber Fire Pearl Metallic Thunderbird on Bullitts [email protected]
96 Sport '02 Explorer PI with ported heads, 90MM LMAF, DirtyDog Marauder TC, Lasota tune, Jmod, Magnaflow mid-mount with X, no cats. Urethane drivers motor mount. HIDs!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-14-2010, 03:18 PM
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I'm sorry to tell you this... but to get to remove the strut rod bushings you must remove the entire Lower control arm it is imperative. No pressing needed. The front Strut Rod bushings had better be OE Style rubber cause if not you'll be doing it all over again like me. I went thru 3 sets before I got it right.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-14-2010, 03:37 PM
Kind of slapped together

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philippe Mentor View Post
I'm sorry to tell you this... but to get to remove the strut rod bushings you must remove the entire Lower control arm it is imperative. No pressing needed. The front Strut Rod bushings had better be OE Style rubber cause if not you'll be doing it all over again like me. I went thru 3 sets before I got it right.
Ummm ... what the OP was talking about was the lower shock mount for the front shock, quite often misnamed "strut".

(Interestingly dull factoid: Shock absorbers are NOT shock absorbers, but dampeners. The SPRING absorbs the shock, not the "shock absorber".)

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