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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Inner tie rod removal

Does anyone have a right up on how to remove the inner tie rod on a 94 Mercury Cougar?

The service manual was not real helpful on removing it.

1995 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 200k!
1994 Mercoury Cougar XR7 - 150k and still going.

I've had too many other cars to mention...
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-05-2010, 08:14 PM
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This one is pretty good:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=54936

I have seen people on here that just use adjustable wrenches with no backing wrench. I bought the Harbor Freight tool and used an adustable wrench on the drivers side teeth. Worked fine.

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 12:21 AM
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Big adjustable wrench. Threads on and off just like anything else. Some say there is a metal thing there but mine didnt have one.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, that helps. Autozone has the removal tool and I saw the one from Harbor Freight as well.

This is all my service manual said:

Tie Rod End


Steering Gear Installed


Removal

1. Remove and discard the cotter pin and nut from the worn tie rod end (3A130).

2. Disconnect tie rod end from LH front wheel knuckle (3K185)/RH front wheel knuckle (3K186), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.

3. Holding the tie rod end with a wrench, loosen the tie rod end jam nut.

4. Note the depth to which the tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip the tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers, and remove the tie rod end.


Installation

1. Clean the tie rod end threads.

2. Thread the tie rod end to the same depth as the removed tie rod end.

3. Place the tie rod end into the LH front wheel knuckle/RH front wheel knuckle. Ensure front wheels are in the straight ahead position.

4. Install a new nut on the tie rod end. Tighten the nut to 53 N-m (39 lb-ft), and continue tightening the nut to align the next castellation of the nut with the cotter pin hole in the stud. Install a new cotter pin.

5. Set toe to specification. Refer to «Section 04-00». Tighten the jam nut to 48-68 N-m (35-50 lb-ft).

Really sucks that this is all I could find.

Thanks a million. Showing me this is other forum just saved me a lot of time and hastle.

Someone should make a right up on this for this site!

1995 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 200k!
1994 Mercoury Cougar XR7 - 150k and still going.

I've had too many other cars to mention...
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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Something I am wondering about is when removing the tie rod (last stage) it is said to hold the rack while turning the tie rod:

"USE A WRENCH ON THE RACK TEETH (FLAT) TO RESIST RACK ROTATION AND PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PINION DURING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION."

I can't seem to get a visual around this. Can one of you guys help to get my head wrapped around what I am supposed to be doing here? Are the teeth actully protruding out from the rack housing enough to put an open end wrench on it? I understand the part about turning the wheel all the way to one side, but the gear actully protudes out?

Thanks.

1995 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 200k!
1994 Mercoury Cougar XR7 - 150k and still going.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 03:09 AM
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i didnt use a wrench to resist torquing the rack but the best way to find out where to put the wrench is to get under the car with a wrench. Like i said though, I replaced the inner and outer tie rods on my car using mainly a big adjustable wrench.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 05:17 AM
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the tool that slips over the whole thing and connects at the base is a BIG help for this. the one i have took a rachet in the end to turn it. we had the entire front end apart already, so it was pretty easy. good luck man!

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
good luck man!
*GULP!*

1995 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 200k!
1994 Mercoury Cougar XR7 - 150k and still going.

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 08:32 AM
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If it's an after market sometimes they put a set screw instead of a pin. It'a an alan style

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Former owner:
1996 Thunderbird lx 4.6
1994 Thunderbird lx 4.6
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 08:36 AM
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When you have the drivers side boot off you may need to turn the steering wheel to the left to see the teeth on the drivers side.

Since I was working alone I put the big adjustable on the outer teeth in a position where the end of the wrench could rest against the car and duck taped it in place. I then put a floor jack up against the other side of the wrench handle with light pressure to hold it in place. the torque removing the drivers side will push against the jack.

I had the rivets in my original and replacement. I used a small screwdriver worked around the bottom of the rivet to lift it up then used diagonal cutters to pull the pin up. One side the pin broke off which did not really hurt anything, it was just had to put more leverage on the tool to get the tierod loose.

I used radiator hose clamps on the larger end of the boot when replacing. The smaller clamps can be reused.

I tried using another adjustable wrench to turn the tie rod loose, but no luck. I just got the Harbor Freight tool with a 20% off coupon in the back of most car magazines. The tool worked great, just had to remove the brakes to get a good angle on it.

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 09:55 AM
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Does this mean that when I did mine they actually didn't give me an issue? Mine took thirty min tops after the car was up and wheels off.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty View Post
When you have the drivers side boot off you may need to turn the steering wheel to the left to see the teeth on the drivers side. .
Mine is the right side, the passenger side and there is nothing to grap onto. There is just the cylinder from the rack.

The new one has the alan wrench pins and the OEM has two pins.

Still plugging away...

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1994 Mercoury Cougar XR7 - 150k and still going.

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996Project-bird View Post
Does this mean that when I did mine they actually didn't give me an issue? Mine took thirty min tops after the car was up and wheels off.
You are the gifted one Grasshopper....

1995 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 200k!
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white lincoln View Post
Mine is the right side, the passenger side and there is nothing to grap onto. There is just the cylinder from the rack.

The new one has the alan wrench pins and the OEM has two pins.

Still plugging away...
You can only get teeth on the drivers side. If you are only doing the right side, you can not use a backing wrench unless you pull the boot on the drivers side.

On my car both sides were worn the same.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well, its done. Here is the stiffy on it.

I did pull the boot on the right side to get a wrench on the teeth so I could remove the right side inner tie rod.



Here is what my old one looked like. *Notice it does not stay in a straight position but is rather loose and just dangles there. The new one was hard to move around. Nice and tight like it should be.



The drivers side seemed to be okay. This explains the drifting, lack of any mechanic being able to align the front end that pesky clunking noise I kept hearing when I took turns or hit bumps.

Thanks all for making this a success.

Regards,
Brad

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 08:18 PM
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Nice.

Both of mine dangled like yours. A real big difference driving it when they are new. Didn't notice it so much over the years.

Wrench looks just how I had mine. Better to be safe than have to replace the rack.

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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 09:04 PM
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Did they change the design from the 93-95 to the 96-97? My 97 looks nothing like that.

It took me half an hour per side to do mine in my driveway, I had to replace the drivers side when the car fell off the jack as I was placing it on the jack stand and the inner tie rod landed on the jack stand, and as I was replacing the upper control arms, I noticed the passenger side was bent to heck, so I replaced it this weekend too. For me, the hardest part is threading the inner tie rod onto the steering rack, since the new ones are stiff, it's hard to get enough clearance to thread it, but persistence is the key it seems.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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... it's hard to get enough clearance to thread it, but persistence is the key it seems.
I turned the wheels from left to right and back to make room to work on the inner tie rods. Otherwise, you drive yourself nuts trying to get things to fit or to get wrenches and the like in tight areas.

Don't know about the changes of the rods, maybe it was just the maker was different.

The one that came off is different than the one I bought.


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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
Did they change the design from the 93-95 to the 96-97? My 97 looks nothing like that.

For me, the hardest part is threading the inner tie rod onto the steering rack, since the new ones are stiff, it's hard to get enough clearance to thread it, but persistence is the key it seems.
My 95 looked like the picture with only one hole for the rivet.

I packed grease around the joint and worked it back and forth a little so it would move easier. Was pretty easy to thread on that way.

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
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My 95 looked like the picture with only one hole for the rivet.

I packed grease around the joint and worked it back and forth a little so it would move easier. Was pretty easy to thread on that way.
That's what I ended up doing as well. Was MUCH easier than the upper control arm on the passenger side. I didn't even have enough clearance to get the ratcheting box end in on the firewall side due to the canister positioning.
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That's what I ended up doing as well. Was MUCH easier than the upper control arm on the passenger side. I didn't even have enough clearance to get the ratcheting box end in on the firewall side due to the canister positioning.
I already replaced both sides of the upper control arms a while back. The boot covers where rotted and torn. Time to replace the whole thing.

Well, I tore the tie rod end dust boot in the process of replacing the inner tie rod so I am going to just replace the whole thing. Then I take it into the Ford dealer to have it aligned. They did a good job on the last two cars. Can't say much for the mechanical skills though. Idiots missed all kind of stuff on two cars I took in there. Seems they know as much as I do, which is pretty sad.

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 03:01 PM
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Hi

What era you guy's doing with the old inner tierods??

mine are bent.

Paul

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 07:33 PM
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Hi

What era you guy's doing with the old inner tierods??

mine are bent.

Paul
Mine went in the garbage because one was broken, the other was bent.
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 08:02 PM
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Mine are still laying around. Couldn't imagine going through the trouble to ship and install them when new ones are so cheap.

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 08:42 PM
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Hi

What era you guy's doing with the old inner tierods??

mine are bent.

Paul
Huh.

New ones are $26 for Moog, $27 for MotorCraft, at RockAuto.

With the work it takes, WHY use used there?

RwP
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Spares

Hi

I carry spares to the track with me. In case I get a bump or 2.

The ones on the car right now are bent. Saturday in my last race this season.
Was last Saturday But Mom Nature had other ideas!

any interest to ship to 14120?


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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 03:11 AM
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Paul,

I just finished up rebuilding my front end, you can have my old ones. Just sitting in a box in the cellar right now. Anything to help out the team!

joe

It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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So I got the front end aligned, all went well and it drives nice... except:

They reported the steering box is worn and there is play. Not much, 1/2" or less of turn in the steering wheel.

On the Cougar, can I just loosen the steering box lock nut, and turn the adjusting nut 1/4 and tighten up the lock nut and be done with it?

Clockwise I presume.

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 01:37 PM
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Rack?

Hello

Do you mean your rack?


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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 06:54 PM
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No steering box on the mn12 Tbirds. I know what you are refering to. I adjusted the box on some of my older cars years ago with recirculaing ball steering.

No steering box on rack and pinion cars.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Arti...ting_ball.aspx

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