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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Torsional Load Brace photos

Does anyone have pictures of there RTLB, my buddy is trying to figure out if he can fit his exhaust inside of the RTLB in the rear.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 12:25 PM
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Here's one from my '98 LSC. I did the exhaust myself, 2 1/2" 304 stainless. It'll fit, if you do it right.


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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 07:04 PM
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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-08-2010, 08:08 PM
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LOL, mine's not quite so nice, but it's functional...



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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Here is mine.





http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/...5.jpg&newest=1

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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-19-2011, 05:06 PM
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Here's the one I just bought. Installed it today. Was a loose fit. Some heat, a vise, and some muscle took care of that.


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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 10:21 AM
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Heres mine that I got from Jerry (91bluecoupe)


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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 10:46 AM
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Here's mine I build.


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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 12:01 PM
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Do any of y'all think I should have the other side of the mounting plates welded to the tube? Mine is only welded on the outside.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
Do any of y'all think I should have the other side of the mounting plates welded to the tube? Mine is only welded on the outside.
It would probably be a good idea.

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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
Do any of y'all think I should have the other side of the mounting plates welded to the tube? Mine is only welded on the outside.
if you have access to a welder, then yeah, go for it!

I'm a firm believer in welding.......everything!

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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
Do any of y'all think I should have the other side of the mounting plates welded to the tube? Mine is only welded on the outside.
Yes! Mine was the same way...


-Matt
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLF View Post
Here's one from my '98 LSC. I did the exhaust myself, 2 1/2" 304 stainless. It'll fit, if you do it right.

Dude i love your brace, Where'd you get it and how low does it sit towards the ground? Could you show a picture of it from behind the car on the ground so i could see how low it sits?

---Jeremy
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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 09:59 PM
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Yes! Mine was the same way...
Woah! That'll definitely be the next thing I do then. Also, I think my brace sits a little low and I have a lot of space between the bar and my exhaust. Would it be okay if I elongated the bolt holes in the mounting tabs on the brace? I feel the brace would be more effective if the support bar were closer to being in between the LCA mounts instead of being below them. Makes me wonder if the person who made your brace is the same person who made mine.

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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-20-2011, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
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Dude i love your brace, Where'd you get it and how low does it sit towards the ground? Could you show a picture of it from behind the car on the ground so i could see how low it sits?
I bought it used, but it's from SCP.

On the ground, no, but here's a pic on my lift.


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Last edited by DLF; 10-20-2011 at 10:14 PM.
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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 12:56 AM
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I know the picture is dark and the pipes currently end under the diff, before the brace, but at one time the pipes were routed all the way back without issues. I ditched the rear most pipes due to a pumpkin swap and I hated the look of exhaust tips. I may eventually extend them again but I don't mind the sound and don't experience any fumes or issues and it's very easy to change my diff now.

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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8tiveJuggalo17 View Post
Dude i love your brace, Where'd you get it and how low does it sit towards the ground? Could you show a picture of it from behind the car on the ground so i could see how low it sits?
If you are interested, I build and sell the brace in my pic above for $75 plus shipping. I'm better known on LVC.

My M8 is sensor lowered, and I have only scraped it a couple times, with a full load of kids, on a good dip in the road. I measure ~4.5" of clearance.

Bob

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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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FYI,

I make my brace also and is pictured in above post by Roadrunner.

Mine is $50 plus shipping.
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
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FYI,

I make my brace also and is pictured in above post by Roadrunner.

Mine is $50 plus shipping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SATURN5 View Post
If you are interested, I build and sell the brace in my pic above for $75 plus shipping. I'm better known on LVC.

Bob
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 03:18 PM
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Sorry... I just thought I'd offer an option...

Cheers, Bob

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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 12:10 AM
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I love this style RTLB, i love how it lines up exactly with the control arms. what is your ground clearance? I have a t-bird with the j-code springs. I want to know how much clearance i would have, Do you paint them also?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
These braces look more sturdier then the above brace, becuz there is only 2 weld spots and a solid bar BUT i hate how it protrudes under the control arms if it was flush like the above brace then it would be a sure buy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunnner View Post
Looks good except for the hanging below the control arms. Anyway you can address that jerry?

---Jeremy

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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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My brace only sits abouit 1 1/2 inches below the frame. It is needed in order to have room to run exhaust threw it.

If you do not want to do that then I can raise your brace up.

I have Eibachs lowered 1 1/2 and I have never hit my brace on anything.

Jerry
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 07:58 AM
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I love this style RTLB, i love how it lines up exactly with the control arms. what is your ground clearance? I have a t-bird with the j-code springs. I want to know how much clearance i would have, Do you paint them also?

The only thing about that style is, where the main bar bends in the two locations, it creates two weak points in the brace. Whereas a solid straight bar has more side to side load capacity. At least that's what I've learned from two years of mechanical engineering design at my schools motor sports lab.

Now, on my brace, I plan to not only bring it closer to the sub frame, but also have the seams re welded, as the welds are not up to my standards.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I saw your brace it was made sub par for sure! And it's placement was way to low also.

My brace has no weak points. I have had my brace on for over a year and it is proven to stand up to beatings very we'll. I can even lift the rear of my car with my brace but it is a a little bigger than most.

Yes I paint my braces any color the buyer wants.
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 08:23 AM
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All I can say is mine or the several dozen I have made has ever broke. I doubt it would ever pull a weld. It's a street application, not running at 200mph around Indy. But to each their own.

For those that asked, on my sensor lowered Mark, 4.5" of clearance.

84 SVO Bright Amber Met, B234F 16V Volvo head conversion, RPE custom intake, header, FMIC, 38MM BOV, RPE modified diamond pistons, Crower rods, HE351 Holset, 44MM WG/dump, A1000/sumped tank, -8AN lines, 72lb injectors, 03 Cobra hydroboost, rack, brakes, IRS, Bilsteins/coil overs, MM lower control arms, RPE bumpsteer kit, T-tops
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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 04:14 PM
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Doesnt look to awful difficult to make. How does that affect the whole IRS setup? Noticable difference in handling? Tryin to tighten mine up more.
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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It does firm up the rear IRS and works with the RSTB. You can feel it the most in the turns.
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 05:40 PM
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Sweet! Ive got a buddy that welds. What is good to use for the cross brace? Exhaust tubing?
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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 06:51 PM
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Exhaust tubing is a bit large, and rather thinwall.

84 SVO Bright Amber Met, B234F 16V Volvo head conversion, RPE custom intake, header, FMIC, 38MM BOV, RPE modified diamond pistons, Crower rods, HE351 Holset, 44MM WG/dump, A1000/sumped tank, -8AN lines, 72lb injectors, 03 Cobra hydroboost, rack, brakes, IRS, Bilsteins/coil overs, MM lower control arms, RPE bumpsteer kit, T-tops
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91bluecoupe View Post
It does firm up the rear IRS and works with the RSTB. You can feel it the most in the turns.
The TL brace works best with a pinion brace to tie the front pivots of the LCAs together, thus further boxing the IRS cradle.

The RSTB can only really have an effect on the shocks(assuming there's an extraneous amount of deflection imposed on the wheelwell/towers through flex), which really is a futile effort due to the load being transmitted through the bushings anyway.

More importantly the load path goes through the IRS cradle up to and through the IRS/Body mounts. The IRS cradle being virtually independent of the unibody due to this will make any reduction of torsional flex in the unibody gained from the RSTB a rather useless gesture.

But others may differ after payment and installation of course.

-Matt
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