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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2010, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Cheap Solution for lowered cars!

Got my '96 LX the lowered stance and she looked great. But after about a week a noticed some thing was wrong with the back end it started to make a clunk sound every time I hit a bump in the road. After raising the car up with a jack to see that the sway bar end links bolts (both) had gotten bent and distorted. Clearly not strong enough to handle the entire weight of our car. IF you remember the stock sway bar end links were too long where as it set the bar up at a 45 degree angle, not good. So I then remembered that the stock Mark VIII or LSC had links that are exactly the same length required for the new lowered stance or at least it looked like it did. I Pulled them off a 96-98 LSC cleaned them up shot with Rustoleum silver paint I had got new Poly bushings and they fit just right.
The trick to installing them is: You must have an air ratchet cause you'll never get it to wrench down by hand. Move the parking brake cable above the sway bay very important! You gotta start the install at the sway bar first with the car raised wheels on! Both sides, Then slide the washers and bushings and slowly lower the car on the ground the links will thread thru the lower control arm, then finish installing the bushings and washer nut and tighten with the air ratchet all the way. Use long 13mm socket and 8mm to hold the link from spinning for this. Good luck y'all.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I don't have the Addco Sway bar But When I lowered my Car I Had to replace the stock End links due to the lowering. I can imagine that the end links supplied (to your kit) were merely a Grade 8 Bolt and a hollow tube with washers etc.. I had the same problem were as my bolts got bent and distorted from the torsion/ weight applied to them. I found The Lincoln LSC end links in a bone-yard wire brushed them clean painted and installed. The result; A super tight and rigid rear end. The down side to it is that to find the links they're not sold new anywhere. If you do find them in a salvage yard make sure to get all the hardware sans the bushings, make sure that the corrosion is at a minimum. too much and it'll snap on you. Total investment $2. that's including the admission to the yard. Good Luck.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 12:22 PM
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The energy suspension endlinks that I've been using since I lowered my car, and that many others continue to use have caused me no problems. Energy suspention kit part # 9.8119RC. Cost me $17 at autozone. I like knowing that I can replace the stock design with a much cheaper alternative available as a over the counter part that I've never seen out of stock.


P.S. Do you really need to post this in two places?

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
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Last edited by Chris_Murder; 09-16-2010 at 12:30 PM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 01:44 PM
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I have Eibachs and is lowered 1.5 should I buy these 9.8119RC or 9.8117R?

Stock sway bar for now.

Shorter or longer closer to stock but a little shorter?

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...p?prod=9.8119#

'A' Length Part Number
1" 98122
1-5/8" 98120
2" 98123
2-3/8" 98125
2-5/8" 98117
2-7/8" 98118
3-3/8" 98119
3-9/16" 98124
4-1/4" 98149
4-1/2" 98121

Last edited by 91bluecoupe; 09-16-2010 at 01:57 PM.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 02:27 PM
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98119 are shorter than stock and thicker than the addco pieces.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 02:28 PM
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Should I go shorter than you seeing that my car was lowered 1.5?

2-5/8" 98117 VS 3-3/8" 98119
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 02:55 PM
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I would use the same ones but the choice is untimately yours, I would go with whatever makes the bar in the right orientation. I'm using the 98119 kit and my car is lowered 1.25". Like the show lyrics go "Now, the world don't move to the beat of just one drum, What might be right for you, may not be right for some."

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-16-2010, 02:57 PM
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Thanks I am going to try the 98117 and I will let you know.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 09:46 AM
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I got them in.

Not sure though of what the right orientation is now that I have seen them closer.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2010, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well good luck with those bolts though. Listen I'm not knocking Energy Suspension Excellent Poly Bushings. The problem I had (and I don't know if I'm the only one), is that after a couple weeks the Grade #8 bolts were bent at the top end of the bolt. I wish I had a photo to prove it.
My Solution For the Recycled Mark VIII works perfect. It came at a very small price.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2010, 02:19 PM
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I am pretty sure I have them torqued right.

I have heard if you have them to tight they will bind and bend the bolts.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2010, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91bluecoupe View Post
I am pretty sure I have them torqued right.

I have heard if you have them to tight they will bind and bend the bolts.
Yep. They need to be just tight enough so that they don't rattle.

-1996 Pearl White Thunderbird 4.6 Sport 4v with many mods:
Current Best: 13.583 @ 103.74 10/2014.
227hp/241tq measured on calibrated mustang dyno, tested at full vehicle simulation with inertia enabled, no number skewing.
-2001 White Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.8 V10, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG KO2's, Bilstein 7100 Remote Reservoir Race Bypass Shocks, 6" Spring lift, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, FlowMaster Exhaust
Amber_Murder's Daily Driver.
-2005 White GMC Sierra 3500 6.6 Duramax, Dually, 4-door, 4x4, Limo Tint, BFG Commercial T/A's, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks, Kenwood Double Din, K&N Intake, Banks Monster Exhaust
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-23-2010, 02:28 PM
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Yeap, I check them everyday for any signs anything going wrong.

I only tightened them so the red bushings were mated tight with the car on the ground level.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-24-2010, 12:47 AM
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As you tighten sway bar link bolts through biscuits, like shock absorbers, turn the biscuits by hand and tighten just enough that you feel resistance. They should not be squeezed out of shape. Use Nyloc nuts with the nylon insert that keeps from turning, or those crimped like loc nuts.

I kapt stock links with the '92 when I lowered it several years ago, no issues yet.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-24-2010, 01:11 AM
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I might try those energy suspension pieces. I have been using the stock endlinks but I still have a slight rake with an empty trunk...

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