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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Upper Control Arm

OK what is the trick to getting the upper control arms off? It looks like a total pain in the ars.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 09:00 PM
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18mm ratcheting wrench
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 09:58 PM
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Its easy as pie

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 12:44 AM
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18mm ratcheting wrench
.

x2

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---------------------------------------
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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do you go at it from inside the fender well or inside the engine bay? it looks like a PITA to get to in the engine bay. However, it looks like just as much of a PITA to hit it from the inside with those tabs on the bolts
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 04:22 AM
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Loosen from the engine is easiest I think hardest was by the brake lines; but doable with ordanary tools. I forgot if you can move some stuff away like the fuse box haven't done in long time so forgot. You might have to put a ratchet or another wrench on fender ones after broken free most likely. It's easy with the ratcheting wrench but can be done with regular wrenches just takes more time. A trick is to use when there is no room or its stuck on tight is use the 18mm wrench by putting it on the bolt u want to loosen. Next take another wrench; try smaller/ bigger wrenches for diff angles/levarage if one don't work and hook it onto the box end of the 18mm wrench for more leverage/angle. I don't know if you know that or not just a helpful tip for any work. The ball joint bolt is simple unscrew and remove bolt and raise joint upward or bash it out lol. It's really easy even if everything is connected but falls out almost if the endlink is removed from one side but I wouldn't do that lol. good luck

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 05:28 AM
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18mm ratcheting wrench
X3! Small hands and a lot of patience go a long way too!

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 08:20 AM
Kind of slapped together

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Engine bay.

A/C Accumulator and (if you have it) the Teves Mk II ABS will cause consternation on the rear

On the 1991, I removed the radiator overflow tank and the fuse block, made it really easy to get to those.

Leave the flags on the bolts - that'll help keep them from walking around on you during disassembly / reassembly.

I suggest you avoid my mistake, and take this time to do any and all other front end parts while you're in there that might be questionable.

RwP
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 09:14 AM
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One tip on the passanger side is to disconnect the wire harness from the strut tower. That will give you pleanty of room to get to the back bolt.

John
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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ok thanx guys. I appreciate the help. lol It's too bad I have fat hands and little patience. And yes I am replacing everything in the front end. Inner and outer tie rods, Upper and Lower control arms. I might even make new sub assembly braces.

So now I have one more question. The lower control arms come with all of the bushings except for one. The one that is missing is right by the ball joint. What is that called? And does any one have idea how much they cost? Thanx for the help
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 02:06 PM
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Actually there's 2 bushings there for the strut rod. I think when you buy the parts you refer to them as the strut rod bushings, control arm side. There's a front and a rear.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I know there is a bushing on the front and back side of the control arm. Do those come as a set or will I have to order them separate?
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 02:52 PM
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Usually when you order the strut rod bushings they come as a control arm side and a frame side.

Posts 4, 5 and 6: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=132113

One of each kit per car.

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Time for another question. I have everything back together except for one part (I also decided not to do the uppers. I will do them when I do my shocks and springs.) I can't tighten down the lower ball joint on the driver's side because the ball joint spins when I turn the nut. The impact won't do it either. Any suggestions?
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2010, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpthefatty View Post
Time for another question. I have everything back together except for one part (I also decided not to do the uppers. I will do them when I do my shocks and springs.) I can't tighten down the lower ball joint on the driver's side because the ball joint spins when I turn the nut. The impact won't do it either. Any suggestions?
Jack under the control arm / ball joint to push the stub up tight into spindle.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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ok I'm about to take a hammer to the cougar. I have everything done except for the driver side lower ball joint. I can't get that nut to tighten up. I tried pistol's suggestion and it got it closer, but not all the way. Now I can't even back the nut up. I am at a total loss. Please help!
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 06:14 PM
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Try a clamp or hitting it in farther, does it appear to be seated enough to get started without spinning? Also the ball joint might not fit right from the hole being rusted, etc.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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So I ended up jacking up the threads on the ball joint while trying to turn it. So, I just took it back to Advanced Auto and told them it came out of the box that way. Problem solved. The car is on its way to an alignment tomorrow.

However, I did get to play the other fun game that I love. I call it "Guess What Else is Broken!" So when I got under there to work on the passenger side, I found that the tie rod end was broken. This work should make a big difference in the way the car handles. I'm excited.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-01-2010, 09:54 PM
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The uppers are really easy, just time consuming due to the back side nuts. Took me two hours for the first side, then an hour for the other due to practice.

It's worth your time to get them all done at the same time.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 02:22 AM
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a swivel handle ratchet goes a long way on the inside of the fender well. And I concur an 18mm gear wrench is the only way to go on the engine bay side.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 01:23 PM
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I've found a 24-pack of beer also helps with changing Upper Control Arms.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 12:16 AM
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I can't tighten down the lower ball joint on the driver's side because the ball joint spins when I turn the nut. The impact won't do it either. Any suggestions?
i had the same problem when i was doing my driver side except it was on the upper part of the sway bar link, all i did was use the old nut instead of the new one, it went on like a charm.. it musta been bad threads or somthing.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 12:59 AM
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Oh yeah, nuts work best when threads match!

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 07:06 AM
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all i did was use the old nut instead of the new one, it went on like a charm.. it musta been bad threads or somthing.
The reason for the ease is because the nuts are lock nuts. New nuts come from the factory with a slight crush to them to keep them from backing out once they're tightened. Using an already used nut is not recommended.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 07:56 AM
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Everyone always told me that if your gonna use the old hardware you might as well use the old part too.

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My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 11:12 PM
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Everyone always told me that if your gonna use the old hardware you might as well use the old part too.
56 and I never had anyone tell me that.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 11:26 PM
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lol, making a big deal of me using the old nut? really... wow well maybe ill put the new one on then lol. sorry, i didnt wanna mess up the threads and end up finding a ride to a parts store 100 miles away to get a new one haha. i live on the rez, im miles away from everything!
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 12:01 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Everyone always told me that if your gonna use the old hardware you might as well use the old part too.
That was before the chinese started making steel from lead...

There is use once stuff; but never, ever throw away a washer or spacer from your car. You will want it later.

This especially applies to the suspension system...

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