This is not that hard; southern cars rock! No rust.
You will need an alignment when you get done.
A two jaw and three jaw puller makes this really easy; advanced will rent you a set.
You are replacing upper and lower, so start with the bottom.
After you get the lower arm off, all the other sh*t just falls off when you unbolt it.
I wire the calipers to the top of the shock, since everything else is coming out.
You don't have to unbolt the calipers to do the top, but the bottom arm requires it. Just don't yank the brake line apart is the important part.
I put the front on stands; whenever you are working with a sway bar, you need both wheels off the ground the same, lol.
Putting a puller on the bottom ball joint is a lot better than using a pickle fork and a hammer, believe me.
You also need it to yank apart the swaybar endlinks, if you are replacing those. If you have a constant rattle, that's it.
You'll love the way it feels with all new stuff. TN roads are smooth; at least my end of the state, anyway.
My 96 suspension has been completely rebuilt, and I just added koni shocks, bracing, and a new exhaust; My commute rocks.
Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.
"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote