18mm ratching wrench - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: knoxville,tn
Posts: 61
18mm ratching wrench

is this the only tool that i would need other than a good socket set for the uca or is there more??? gonna replace both sides and lca too anything else??? not enuff money for the whole front end just uppers and lowers and maybe a couple of other things... hitting the bolts with pb once a week now for about a month, just waiting for the taxes to come in,,, im new to the whole suspension stuff, any good how to's with pics ????? been searching and searching and searching. reading and reading and reading, better to be knowledged about it b4 i begin right
rogggg1020 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:36 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Roadrunnner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Missouri
Age: 40
Posts: 2,073
Balljoint seperater

Will

The Texas Green Bird (An undeveloped work of art.)
92 Thunderbird Sport 5.0: Sold

91 gt, 5.0 73mm turbo, 5spd, 373s, and much more
Roadrunnner is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:46 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
tbirdtess's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Western New York
Age: 53
Posts: 2,542
uppers

Hi

You shouldn't need a ball joint separator for the upper arm.


Paul [email protected]
1990 Thunderbird Circle Track Street Stock
351W 2bbl.
C-4 Auto
3.90 open rear
tbirdtess is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: knoxville,tn
Posts: 61
is that something i can rent or do i have to buy??
rogggg1020 is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 09:51 AM
Kind of slapped together

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 63
Posts: 4,861
Suggestion:

After you get the car up on the jack stands and get the tires off - take the calipers off the spindles and support them from the inner fender.

Next, take the lower shock mount bolt out.

Next - look at the top of the wheel well. There's three bolts up around the shock absorber top mount. Take those three loose, then pull the shock and spring out as one assembly.

It's a bit easier to get the UCA out and in without the spring in the way.

Be prepared - you may discover the tie rod ends, the strut rod bushings, and/or the sway bar end links and/or bushings to be shot. I'd grab the bushings (search here for the four part numbers, 2x each part # for a complete set) for the strut rod. Also, verify you can get the tie rod inner and outer ends, the sway bar end links, and the rack bellows in town in Moog or Motorcraft.

If any of the new fittings are greasable, I'd use a good quality moly based lubricant, instead of a pure lithium based lubricant. But that's me.

Next to last - Put the bolts in, snug them in, but don't tighten the ones for the control arms until you have the car on the ground.

LAST - GET THE CAR ALIGNED AFTERWARDS.

Yes, I capitalized that. I can NOT emphasize that enough!

RwP

RwP
RalphP is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 10:07 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 7
Another tool tip. Everyone needs a pair of the super jumbo sized channel-lock type pliers. I use mine all the time squeezing brake calipers, for plumbing, you name it.

Installing the new uca's, with these pliers you can easily squeeze the new ball joints right down into the proper position in the clasp knuckle (whatever it's called) without beating on it.

I didn't have too much problem getting the bolts in or out with the coil springs still in place either.
oldstick is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 12:55 PM
PostWhore
 
V8ThunderCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cisco, TX
Age: 39
Posts: 1,100
All I needed was the wrench, a flat tip screwdriver to separate the end of the spindle the pinch bolt goes through, and some wire to hang the spindle from the fender with. I got a wrench kit that had 8 diffrent sizes on only 2 wrenches. Which helped because I think that the pinch bolt is a different size.

-Randy-
V8ThunderCat is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 01:39 PM
MAMN12 Posse Member
 
JeffTBird93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Inwood, WV
Age: 35
Posts: 2,903
Patience, and lots of it. My lower control arms were a royal PITA to replace. I got the assembled Moog ones that already have everything in them. The inner bushing (control arm to frame) was so old and trashed that it had rusted itself to the camber bolt (or something similar to this, ie - it wouldn't come out). I couldn't hammer the camber bolt out due to not getting a good swing on the hammer. Ended up sawzall'ing the camber bolts out and replacing them as well.

~Jeff

*signed off
JeffTBird93 is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 03:26 PM
Kind of slapped together

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 63
Posts: 4,861
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldstick View Post
I didn't have too much problem getting the bolts in or out with the coil springs still in place either.
*nod* Didn't say you couldn't, and I didn't remove them - but I DID loosen the top of the passenger side, and it made that side easier.

But if he's pulling the LCAs ANYWAY - pull those spring/shock combos and make it easier, why not?

RwP
RalphP is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 03:31 PM
PostWhore
 
V8ThunderCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cisco, TX
Age: 39
Posts: 1,100
Umm, where did he say he was replacing the LCA's? I think he's only touching the UCA's. I too was able to get the bolt out with the springs in place but it took some wiggling.

-Randy-
V8ThunderCat is offline  
post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 03:59 PM
PostSlut
 
_95badbird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Spring Texas
Age: 39
Posts: 13,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by V8ThunderCat View Post
Umm, where did he say he was replacing the LCA's? I think he's only touching the UCA's. I too was able to get the bolt out with the springs in place but it took some wiggling.
his second, and third sentence in his first post...

Nick......................I'm back!!!
May you fly low and fast
rest in peace JL
_95badbird is offline  
post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 04:05 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Traveler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chandler AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 9,165
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to Traveler
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldstick View Post
Another tool tip. Everyone needs a pair of the super jumbo sized channel-lock type pliers. I use mine all the time squeezing brake calipers, for plumbing, you name it.

Installing the new uca's, with these pliers you can easily squeeze the new ball joints right down into the proper position in the clasp knuckle (whatever it's called) without beating on it.

I didn't have too much problem getting the bolts in or out with the coil springs still in place either.
LOL agreed! I have a drawer in my tool box specifically designated for "B.A.T" (Big Ass Tools!) My grandfather was a machinist in the navy, then operated his own manufacturing plant before retiring and doing a lot of his own work on his Motorhome. I inherited some huge tools!


1997 Thunderbird Sport
Low Miles
Wifes Car
destined to remain stock

1997 T-Bird GT 4.6
80 MM Mustang GT MAF - P&P'd Mustang GT TB and Intake Plenum - PI Intake manifold - PI Heads
Mark VIII Torque Converter - J-Modded 4R70W transmission - Mark VIII Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 gears
PBR Brake Calipers - Eibach Springs - KYB Shocks
'89 SuperCoupe front and rear sway bars
SCT Chip programmed by Lonnie Doll
255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512's
True Dual exhaust with Magnaflow DI/DO muffler
<<< SOLD >>>
Traveler is offline  
post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 04:20 PM
Kind of slapped together

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 63
Posts: 4,861
Quote:
Originally Posted by _95badbird View Post
his second, and third sentence in his first post...


RwP
RalphP is offline  
post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: knoxville,tn
Posts: 61
wow thanks alot ppl you dodnt know how much this means to me this helps out alot now any pics with labels to help me even more????
rogggg1020 is offline  
post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 07:56 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 7
Yeah, I just now noticed he mentioned the lowers also.

Haven't messed with those yet, but I figure you are going to need a lot more than an 18mm wrench in that case.

Lot's of B.A.N.s down there (Big Arse Nuts).

oldstick is offline  
post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 07:58 PM
PostWhore
 
V8ThunderCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cisco, TX
Age: 39
Posts: 1,100
Quote:
Originally Posted by _95badbird View Post
his second, and third sentence in his first post...
Ah, I read the 1st sentence and then blah blah.

-Randy-
V8ThunderCat is offline  
post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 05:25 AM
1st Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Taylor Mill, KY
Age: 55
Posts: 29
Don't forget to remove the pinch nut and bolt completely. I felt so stupid after cussing and beating on the old one the first time. I only removed it because I was preparing to split the old control arm off. After I pulled the bolt and nut completely out the wheel assembly fell out on its own.

I'll be in there doing lowers very soon as the bushings are gone now.

Tom Gibson

1996 T Bird Pacific Green Metallic, gray cloth interior,3.8 motor.
I hate deer need parts..
My Jeeps are my hobbies; 77 Honcho,81 J20
HOOT is offline  
post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 09:08 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOT View Post
Don't forget to remove the pinch nut and bolt completely. I felt so stupid after cussing and beating on the old one the first time. I only removed it because I was preparing to split the old control arm off. After I pulled the bolt and nut completely out the wheel assembly fell out on its own.

I'll be in there doing lowers very soon as the bushings are gone now.
Yeah, I am stupid also. Didn't pick up on the fact the bolt fits through the big groove on the ball joint stud for a while.
oldstick is offline  
post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 07:08 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

Super Moderator
 
Grog6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Age: 56
Posts: 10,167
Garage
This is not that hard; southern cars rock! No rust.

You will need an alignment when you get done.

A two jaw and three jaw puller makes this really easy; advanced will rent you a set.

You are replacing upper and lower, so start with the bottom.

After you get the lower arm off, all the other sh*t just falls off when you unbolt it.

I wire the calipers to the top of the shock, since everything else is coming out.
You don't have to unbolt the calipers to do the top, but the bottom arm requires it. Just don't yank the brake line apart is the important part.

I put the front on stands; whenever you are working with a sway bar, you need both wheels off the ground the same, lol.

Putting a puller on the bottom ball joint is a lot better than using a pickle fork and a hammer, believe me.

You also need it to yank apart the swaybar endlinks, if you are replacing those. If you have a constant rattle, that's it.

You'll love the way it feels with all new stuff. TN roads are smooth; at least my end of the state, anyway.

My 96 suspension has been completely rebuilt, and I just added koni shocks, bracing, and a new exhaust; My commute rocks.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
Grog6 is online now  
post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 01:02 AM
PostWhore
 
V8ThunderCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cisco, TX
Age: 39
Posts: 1,100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
You don't have to unbolt the calipers to do the top, but the bottom arm requires it.
I didn't touch my calipers when I did mine. I did however have to unbolt the tie rod end from the spindle. That made it very easy to unbolt (or in this case is it un-nut?) the strut rod.

-Randy-
V8ThunderCat is offline  
post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 08:15 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: GA
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post

You'll love the way it feels with all new stuff. TN roads are smooth; at least my end of the state, anyway.
Must not be anywhere near Memphis. Took our first trip up there recently and alignment shops must be like gold mines around that city.

oldstick is offline  
post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 08:28 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Roadrunnner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Missouri
Age: 40
Posts: 2,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Putting a puller on the bottom ball joint is a lot better than using a pickle fork and a hammer, believe me.

Why is it better? Ive done plenty of ball joints with my fork and never had a problem. One or two hits and its good.Most of the time its older cars and Im in the rust belt.

Will

The Texas Green Bird (An undeveloped work of art.)
92 Thunderbird Sport 5.0: Sold

91 gt, 5.0 73mm turbo, 5spd, 373s, and much more
Roadrunnner is offline  
post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:36 AM
PostWhore
 
CrystalPistol's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Age: 65
Posts: 1,032
Quote:
Originally Posted by V8ThunderCat View Post
Ah, I read the 1st sentence and then blah blah.
Is that what it was?

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!
CrystalPistol is offline  
post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 02:20 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Raptor22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chico, California
Age: 26
Posts: 2,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Suggestion:

After you get the car up on the jack stands and get the tires off - take the calipers off the spindles and support them from the inner fender.

Next, take the lower shock mount bolt out.

Next - look at the top of the wheel well. There's three bolts up around the shock absorber top mount. Take those three loose, then pull the shock and spring out as one assembly.

It's a bit easier to get the UCA out and in without the spring in the way.

Be prepared - you may discover the tie rod ends, the strut rod bushings, and/or the sway bar end links and/or bushings to be shot. I'd grab the bushings (search here for the four part numbers, 2x each part # for a complete set) for the strut rod. Also, verify you can get the tie rod inner and outer ends, the sway bar end links, and the rack bellows in town in Moog or Motorcraft.

If any of the new fittings are greasable, I'd use a good quality moly based lubricant, instead of a pure lithium based lubricant. But that's me.

Next to last - Put the bolts in, snug them in, but don't tighten the ones for the control arms until you have the car on the ground.

LAST - GET THE CAR ALIGNED AFTERWARDS.

Yes, I capitalized that. I can NOT emphasize that enough!

RwP

RwP
When I did mine last year I rebuilt my entire subframe on a bench, thats really easy...

[-----[ Conner ]-----] ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist - P4 General Motors Parts Consultant
The Blunderbird - 1989 Ford Thunderbird
3.8L V6 / M5R2 / 145,005 miles
Thunderbird SC Suspension Swap - Eibach Pro-Kit
JBL Premium Audio Swap - JL CP108 Subwoofer
Resonator Delete - Magnaflow DI/SO Muffler - Custom 2.5in Exhaust
Raptor22 is offline  
post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:08 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

Super Moderator
 
Grog6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Harriman, TN
Age: 56
Posts: 10,167
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunnner View Post
Why is it better? Ive done plenty of ball joints with my fork and never had a problem. One or two hits and its good.Most of the time its older cars and Im in the rust belt.
I couldn't get one out with a pickle fork at all.

Finally, it pulled the balljoint thru the hole, and the entire knuckle ended up on my bench getting pounded on with a hammer, to get the balljoint out of the knuckle. (insert much cursing here )

Bought a small 2 jaw puller, and they pop right out. The same one also fits the swaybar endlinks in the front.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
Grog6 is online now  
post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:44 PM
PostWhore
 
V8ThunderCat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cisco, TX
Age: 39
Posts: 1,100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Bought a small 2 jaw puller, and they pop right out. The same one also fits the swaybar endlinks in the front.
I'm glad that I bought one of these even though I didn't end up using it for the tie rod ends. I did end up needing it for the sway bar links when I dug back into the suspension to replace the sway bar bushings. It also came in handy on some other bolt you probably wouldn't consider using it on but it really did the job. I just cannot remember what that bolt was. I did need it though when I went to do the lower control arms. The driver's side ball joint came out fairly easily with a 6 pound hammer but I needed the puller on the other side. I'm glad I had bought it for $16 rather than renting it.

-Randy-
V8ThunderCat is offline  
post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:33 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Raptor22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chico, California
Age: 26
Posts: 2,028
Ive found those 2 jaw pullers are awesome, except that they tend to fly off at a high rate of speed when it finally gives way...

[-----[ Conner ]-----] ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist - P4 General Motors Parts Consultant
The Blunderbird - 1989 Ford Thunderbird
3.8L V6 / M5R2 / 145,005 miles
Thunderbird SC Suspension Swap - Eibach Pro-Kit
JBL Premium Audio Swap - JL CP108 Subwoofer
Resonator Delete - Magnaflow DI/SO Muffler - Custom 2.5in Exhaust
Raptor22 is offline  
post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: knoxville,tn
Posts: 61
thanks everybody for the info now time to get some labeled diagrams so i can picture all this out in my head....that hurts....lol
rogggg1020 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome