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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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LCA replacement - trouble with the shock bolt

Hello All,

So I'm trying to change the front lower control arms on my 95 T-bird and I'm following the Ford Service Manual. Wheel is off, LCA is loose from the spindle, strut nut is off, I got the shock lower nut off but the bolt won't budge. Beat it with a hammer or is there some way to load/unload the shock so the bolt will come out? Part has not been replaced in the 100,000 miles that I've owned the car, which now has 163,000 on it.

Thanks,
Jim
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 08:44 PM
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I just did mine two weeks ago. Have you soaked it with PB blaster or similar penetrating fluid for a few hours? Both of my lower shock bolts came out pretty good, but I put penetrating fluid on everything a few days before I started the job.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 08:48 PM
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Break off the tab at the head of the bolt and twist it out with a breaker bar while hammering the other end.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 10:29 PM
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My trick was to use my jack to push up on the lower ball joint to take the weight off of that bolt and then use a hammer to knock it out.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim3inVirginia View Post
Hello All,

So I'm trying to change the front lower control arms on my 95 T-bird and I'm following the Ford Service Manual. Wheel is off, LCA is loose from the spindle, strut nut is off, I got the shock lower nut off but the bolt won't budge. Beat it with a hammer or is there some way to load/unload the shock so the bolt will come out? Part has not been replaced in the 100,000 miles that I've owned the car, which now has 163,000 on it.

Thanks,
Jim
I just changed mine in the summer and my car had 120K on it, i ended up just cutting the head of the bolt off with a dremel tool and knocking it out the other side.. then i went and bought me a grade 10 bolt and put it back together, now remember when you get to removing the camber adjustment bolt it has a CONCENTRIC WASHER you have to line up the bolt and washer perfectly for the bolt to come out or else you'll damage the threads like i did and end up buying a $20 bolt lol. the bolt and washer are shaped like a "D" hope that helps!

---Jeremy
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 11:45 PM
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The load isn't the issue with the bolt not coming out. Sometimes they rust to the sleeve inside the control arm, and depending how bad it is, you may not be able to get it off at all. I've usually had pretty good luck with them, but there have been a couple that I had to cut out with a sawzall, and then one that I was only replacing the shock, not the LCA, so after cutting it out, I had to drill out what was left of the bolt so I wouldn't have to buy a new arm. Best bet is soak it down with PB blaster and hope for the best, but worst case you may need to just cut it out and replace the bolt.

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 07:47 AM
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks for all the good advice. I didn't think to put some PB blaster on it until this morning, shoulda done it last night. I'll let it percolate a while and try it again. If it it's still uncooperative I'll pull out the ole dremel. Thanks!
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 09:57 AM
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I think if I remember when you unbolt and swing the uca ball joint upward it relieves pressure. Then if bolt turns just turn and pull or hammer out same time.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 07:46 PM
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what is a grade 10 bolt?

I have grade 8s holding my UCAs on from home depot. They are pretty strong.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 07:57 PM
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I had to put a wrench on mine and turn it all the way out from the head of the bolt.

A grade 10.9 is a hardened metric bolt... they're common in suspension parts. I believe they're stronger than grade 8.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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After plenty of PB Blaster, prying, wrenching, and beating on it for days with the big hammer, I finally got the lower shock bolt out of the LCA sleeve. I was thinking of putting it off till the weekend but was inspired by all the comments to work some more on it tonight. Thanks for all the good advice. What about a new bolt and nut, is the stealership going to gouge me or should I just go to local mega hardware store? Thanks.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 09:26 PM
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The hardware store I work at (Ace) carries grade 8 and grade 10.9 bolts, so a similar hardware store should have what you need if the dealership wants to rip you off.

"It's all in the reflexes"
LE RIP
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 05:29 AM
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I usually get my bolts at O'Reilly. They carry a good supply of automotive grade bolts. Home Depot and Lowes have home building grade bolts.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 09:32 AM
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Alternatively (if you can wait) you can get a replacement bolt/nut kit from RockAuto. It's part AK68, usually runs under $10.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 12:53 PM
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Do you get two bolts with the kit or do you have to order two kits?
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 12:55 PM
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
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what is a grade 10 bolt?

I have grade 8s holding my UCAs on from home depot. They are pretty strong.
A grade 8.8 ASME bolt is the same as a metric 10.9; A metric grade 8 is weaker than stock.

This assumes neither comes from China.

I'd look and see which you have; if it's a standard thread bolt with the right marks, it's probably ok.

Here's a link on markings and strengths:

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-chart.aspx

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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My local parts store does not carry hardware so I picked up a pair of Grade 8 at Lowes. They did not have metric the right size so I got SAE. They fit the LCA but not the shock! So I just went to the dealer and ordered them. Will take a couple more days but that's all I need to bolt it all together and get it back on the road.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 09:48 AM
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim3inVirginia View Post
My local parts store does not carry hardware so I picked up a pair of Grade 8 at Lowes. They did not have metric the right size so I got SAE. They fit the LCA but not the shock! So I just went to the dealer and ordered them. Will take a couple more days but that's all I need to bolt it all together and get it back on the road.
Make sure you put the weight on the wheels when you do the final tightening on those bolts; the suspension will be jacked up on the bushings if you don't.

The shock, the uca at the frame, and the lca at the frame all need to be done this way.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Job complete. No more creaking when I turn the steering wheel. I ended up getting the shock bolt and nut from the Ford dealer. $10. They charged me the wholesale price rather than retail because it took four days for the part to come in. Got the front end aligned yesterday. Brought it to the Ford dealer this morning and passed the state safety inspection. Thanks to all with the experience and good advice that helped me to fix it myself.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by N8tiveJuggalo17 View Post
I just changed mine in the summer and my car had 120K on it, i ended up just cutting the head of the bolt off with a dremel tool and knocking it out the other side.. then i went and bought me a grade 10 bolt and put it back together, now remember when you get to removing the camber adjustment bolt it has a CONCENTRIC WASHER you have to line up the bolt and washer perfectly for the bolt to come out or else you'll damage the threads like i did and end up buying a $20 bolt lol. the bolt and washer are shaped like a "D" hope that helps!
I have a question about that camber bolts i take mi lca and I didn't mark the position of the line marked washer like it say in the haynes manual now I'm tryng to installed the new ones but I'm wondering if is any way I can now the rigth position o it doesn't matter????

PACO.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 11:12 AM
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I have a question about that camber bolts i take mi lca and I didn't mark the position of the line marked washer like it say in the haynes manual now I'm tryng to installed the new ones but I'm wondering if is any way I can now the rigth position o it doesn't matter????
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=136445
Certainly does matter

Note.. read it - and the links in it- to understand there's a huge connection between toe and camber in the front. In back not much. IOW do not adjust toe unless you're done with camber.

You want slight toe in, and pretty much straight up and down camber, till you get it to the alignment guy.. and do that asap.

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 01:54 PM
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http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=136445
Certainly does matter

Note.. read it - and the links in it- to understand there's a huge connection between toe and camber in the front. In back not much. IOW do not adjust toe unless you're done with camber.

You want slight toe in, and pretty much straight up and down camber, till you get it to the alignment guy.. and do that asap.
There ya go..simple and blunt.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 02:08 PM
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Alright I got it but I mean I just can install the lca and when I have everything bolt on I just can take to aligment and they take care of it ??? Sorry today for me is one of those days you have some of the lapsus brutus lol.

PACO.
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