Dont buy Raybestos service grade endlinks - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down Dont buy Raybestos service grade endlinks

I thought I would share with you my experience with my Raybestos front sway bar end links as a warning to others. I got a set from Rockauto for my car and went to install them last night. Everything was going smooth. Got the old ones off with a few strategic hammer blows. The problem was that the bolts in the new endlinks started spinning almost instantly when i tried to tighten them down. They have a hex keyway in the end of the stud that you can put an allen wrench in to prevent this. I should have stopped right then but I stupidly continued the install, basically stripping out the inside of the bolt to keep it from spinning. Long story short the second side has a nut that is seized halfway down. I cant tighten or remove it. I totally shredder the keyway. So now I'm going to have to cut it off with a grinder to remove it and replace with another new part

At least Rockauto is refunding the price of the parts. Its always the simplest projects that snowball into a huge migraine.....

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 10:08 AM
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Try putting two nuts on the end, if theres room. Use on put a wrench on one nut and the other nut will keep it from turning.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thats a good idea. Unfortunately it is hanging by a thread, literally. I was trying to cut the nut off with a dremel but i ran out of time last night.

1997 LX Sport..Eibachs & KYBs...245/50s on Eagle Alloy 16x7s...SC rear sway bar...94 SC seats...Mark VIII ds...SCT tuned by Lasotta Racing ...Dirty Dog Marauder converter... Trans by Supergordo
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 10:44 AM
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Had the same problem. I used the original nut that was already on the car; the new nut was too hard to get on without it getting jammed and damaging the endlink as you have to force it on with too much torque. Seems they put a plastic??? lock inside the new nuts that make it get jammed onto the threads.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 11:33 AM
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Cut the nut as far as you can then use a hammer and chisel to split it. Redneck engineering is what you need.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thats the plan. I might have to bust out my air chisel if that doesn't work. I picked up some new one links from autozone during lunch. Hopefully I'll get them installed tomorrow.

1997 LX Sport..Eibachs & KYBs...245/50s on Eagle Alloy 16x7s...SC rear sway bar...94 SC seats...Mark VIII ds...SCT tuned by Lasotta Racing ...Dirty Dog Marauder converter... Trans by Supergordo
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2011, 07:27 PM
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I have those on my car and have had NO problems with them what so ever. They've been in for a year. I had no problems installing them correctly with the nut that was supplied. I just recently had them off as well and reinstalled them with no issues.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 02:21 AM
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I have used Raybestos with good results, also. I may be misunderstanding the issue, but did you maybe use the wrong size allen key? My friend had purchased endlinks that used an english nut, but metric allen key - very awkward.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94mncougar View Post
I have used Raybestos with good results, also. I may be misunderstanding the issue, but did you maybe use the wrong size allen key? My friend had purchased endlinks that used an english nut, but metric allen key - very awkward.

Stephen
Well, Raybestos has their SERVICE grade (the cheap stuff that really isn't up to Chinee standards) and their PROFESSIONAL grade (which is actually pretty good stuff, usually.)

Yours may have been professional, the OP specified service.

I'm lazy, I'll stick with Motorcraft, Moog, or ACDelco, thankyouverymuch.

RwP
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 11:25 AM
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 12:05 PM
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Everything service grade is crap. A few years ago a friend of mine limped a heap of 87 taurus in my shop needing a tie rod end. The car as on it' last leg and we figured it woud be lucky to last 6 months. I told the lady that and we got a $10 tie rod end. It had 60 day guarantee, it lasted 63 days.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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I learned my lesson with the service grade parts. I was trying to save a few bucks by going with cheapies. A 45 min job turned into multiple hours of headache.

I installed the autozone ones installed this morning. The boots on the joints say trw, which I believe is who made the oems. The seem much to be built much better than the Chinese junk.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 10:48 PM
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Yeah those are made by Dana Corp. I have the sane set on both of my birds the autozone/Dana Corp units are marked TRW. Nothing wrong with them.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-03-2011, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Well, Raybestos has their SERVICE grade (the cheap stuff that really isn't up to Chinee standards) and their PROFESSIONAL grade (which is actually pretty good stuff, usually.)

Yours may have been professional, the OP specified service.

I'm lazy, I'll stick with Motorcraft, Moog, or ACDelco, thankyouverymuch.

RwP
Mine were the Service grade. Like most cheap things, the quality control probably isn't the best. Either way, I'd agree the other brands would more than likely be better.

Stephen

Winter mods included:
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- Chipped paint
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