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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Help! Front end links stuck

I am trying to change out my front sway bar end links, have both nuts removed, amd they will not budge. Tried hammering on the only place easily accessable, the stud going through the spindle...now I have a stud with ruined threads, and the old end link is still stuck.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 12:57 PM
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I am trying to change out my front sway bar end links, have both nuts removed, amd they will not budge. Tried hammering on the only place easily accessable, the stud going through the spindle...now I have a stud with ruined threads, and the old end link is still stuck.
PB it good, let it soak for an hour, go back and PB it again, let it soak another hour.

Then whack on it.

Too late to put the nut back on (which is what you're supposed to do, let the nut also take the impact and protect the threads).

If that doesn't work, then you may need to grab a set of spindles and swap them ...

RwP
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 01:08 PM
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I changed mine last week but i was able to break the top bolt through with a few swings of a 2&1/2 lb hammer. I don't think a regular framing hammer has enough heft to get it done. Since yours are ruined anyway you can really go to town on them. A torch on the threads wouldn't hurt either as long as you keep it away from the brakes. I used a big pry bar to get the bottom bolt out. You might try a big c clamp to push it through as well.

The good thing is that you could drive the car with them like they are now if you have too. It just won't corner very well.

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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 01:13 PM
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 01:32 PM
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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I got the old one out with a ball joint separator....put the new one in the spindle cannot get the other end into the sway bar, it is like the link is too long, but that is not the case, it is exactly the same size as the old one....and now I can't get the new one out of the spindle side....i don't want to damage it
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 02:31 PM
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Make sure both front tires are off the ground. If not then there will be load on the suspension from the other side pushing the sway bar up on the side you're working on.

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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 04:04 PM
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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LOL @ the bomb...i did consider that one, for a bit.

I had one wheel on a ramp, got both in the air and all was good. New links are on, however the rattle is still there, unchanged.....

Last edited by Earl; 04-09-2011 at 09:43 PM.
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 07:26 PM
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 08:10 PM
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Hit the side of the spindle with a hammer in the area where the end link stud goes through and it'll fall rite out! Ull see a flat area on the side of spindle (hit there) That's how I do mine when I change em.. Works everytime!

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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 12:14 AM
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I used a pickle fork. It was a royal PITA so make sure you use good parts because if you have to do it again, well you get the idea.

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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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I used a pickle fork. It was a royal PITA so make sure you use good parts because if you have to do it again, well you get the idea.
yeah, pickle fok worked great.... hit the other stud with a hammer and it went flying out.

I used genuine Ford parts from the dealer....I learned my lesson, especially with suspension pieces, go factory, or don't bother.
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 08:26 AM
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Make sure both front tires are off the ground. If not then there will be load on the suspension from the other side pushing the sway bar up on the side you're working on.
I've found the opposite to work for me. Take a tire off, PBlaster, load the suspension slightly with a jack,and they should come out with a blow of a hammer. Mine came out very easy like that....... twice.

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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 07:07 PM
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yeah, pickle fok worked great.... hit the other stud with a hammer and it went flying out.

I used genuine Ford parts from the dealer....I learned my lesson, especially with suspension pieces, go factory, or don't bother.
I also did my front end links this weekend. i went with the Deeza links. I had read on other forums (via google) that they are using a unique, patented design for the ball joint. I also like the idea of the "bent" link rather than the straight link. I would think that this design would put less stress on the ball joint...but I am by no means an engineer!

I will give them a shot, they seem very well built upon inspection. We shall see.

Comparison pic:


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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting...has anybody ever actually had a ball joint on a sway bar link fail?
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 08:32 PM
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Interesting...has anybody ever actually had a ball joint on a sway bar link fail?
My father was killed by one when it failed.


He got better, however.
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 08:37 PM
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Well, I wouldn't say actually fail to the extent of breaking into pieces but I think the design had to do with overall integrity. I mean, my old joints just flopped around, hopefully these will last a bit longer and stay "tight."

Here is what the website says:

http://www.deezachassis.com/parts_sl.asp



But again....

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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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^^ durned interesting there thanx for posting!!
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 11:35 PM
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I just ordered the Deeza's from Rock Auto. They are 18.48 ea. It said they only had 18 left when I ordered them.

Moog's were close to $50ea.
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I paid 97 dollars for my ford links...and that was 10% above cost....
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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-13-2011, 01:14 PM
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I think it helped me by putting a stand under the lower control arm and letting a little of the weight back down on the stand. The top stud came out with a couple hammer strikes. The bottom one is tougher because there is no where accessable to hammer it. So either one of those pry forks or do what I did.

Clamp a fairly large set of vice grips onto the stud on the outer side right in between the "ball" and the sway bar. Locking the pliers down real tight should wedge them real solid in between the two parts you want separated. Then hammer the side of the vice grips (towards the outside of car, of course) a couple times and that stud should pop out.

Don't know how good this is for your pliers, but if they are name brand and you don't have to beat them too hard, they should survive.
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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 05-29-2011, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Mac57 View Post
I also did my front end links this weekend. i went with the Deeza links. I had read on other forums (via google) that they are using a unique, patented design for the ball joint. I also like the idea of the "bent" link rather than the straight link. I would think that this design would put less stress on the ball joint...but I am by no means an engineer!

I will give them a shot, they seem very well built upon inspection. We shall see.

Comparison pic:

I ordered two at Amazon, Deeza # FO-L643 .... price was good enough that I'll give them a try!



Funny, my '92 Sport with 140+K miles has originals that are still tight enough that they don't rattle, but my '95 with 70K miles has a constantly rattling left front link? I'll put these on the '95 and save the tighter right one as a spare.

Edit 06-10-11

The two Deeza # FO-L643 links I ordered from Amazon came yesterday finally and I installed them tonigt after it cooled off. They are exactly as appear in the pic above, when I ordered them they had two left at $10.31 each and qualified for free shipping on orders over $25. I got a case for my Casio Ravine too. They went to $22.75 as soon as I completed my order .... guess I got lucky with old stock? I'm happy, no clunk in the '95 now!

Only down side is mine did NOT have flats for a wrech nor did they have socket tip ball studs (maybe these are "pre-socket tip" versions?). The nuts provided were flanged steel self lock nuts and I could not get the nuts to tighten, so I slipped the original nuts that came off the car onto the new studs and the thread was perfect.

I tightened them good, and gave thought to maybe removing them and reinstalling the self locking nuts ..... but as tight as they were though what a chore they be to remove maybe later if need be ..... so I just left the original nuts in place.

Did remove a bolt and swing the brake caliper up when inserting the upper stud too. Just lightly compress pads, swing up, drop old out and slip new in.


A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!

Last edited by CrystalPistol; 06-10-2011 at 01:52 AM.
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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by J_Mac57 View Post
I also did my front end links this weekend. i went with the Deeza links. I had read on other forums (via google) that they are using a unique, patented design for the ball joint. I also like the idea of the "bent" link rather than the straight link. I would think that this design would put less stress on the ball joint...but I am by no means an engineer!

I will give them a shot, they seem very well built upon inspection. We shall see.

Comparison pic:

Same design as the duralast ones I got from Autozone last month, except that the Duralast have grease fittings. Lifetime warranty on them. Just got 2 for the rear with lifetime warranties too. I love the fact that you can grease these too!
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 08:17 PM
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I got Raybestos ones that look like the stock (bent) ones. I had the straight ones and they started ratteling after 3 months....... the raybestos ones have been in a little over a year adn all is well still.

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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 08:54 PM
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Oh snap I am doing these too. The 96 needs a new set!

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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011, 11:41 PM
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I got Raybestos ones that look like the stock (bent) ones. I had the straight ones and they started ratteling after 3 months....... the raybestos ones have been in a little over a year adn all is well still.
So, the factory/stock ends were "bent"? The links I took off my car I presumed were factory (straight links). I thought when I looked on Rockauto all the endlinks pictured were straight...guess I thought wrong!

Quote:
Originally Posted by conquistador View Post
Same design as the duralast ones I got from Autozone last month, except that the Duralast have grease fittings. Lifetime warranty on them. Just got 2 for the rear with lifetime warranties too. I love the fact that you can grease these too!
I do like the idea of grease fittings. I'll just hope the Deeza boots hold up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
Edit 06-10-11

The two Deeza # FO-L643 links I ordered from Amazon came yesterday finally and I installed them tonigt after it cooled off.

Only down side is mine did NOT have flats for a wrech nor did they have socket tip ball studs (maybe these are "pre-socket tip" versions?). The nuts provided were flanged steel self lock nuts and I could not get the nuts to tighten, so I slipped the original nuts that came off the car onto the new studs and the thread was perfect.

I tightened them good, and gave thought to maybe removing them and reinstalling the self locking nuts ..... but as tight as they were though what a chore they be to remove maybe later if need be ..... so I just left the original nuts in place.
I had the same issue. I do prefer to use the new hardware so what I did was use the old nut to initially tighten the endlink and "seat" the stud into the spindle/swaybar. Once "seated" I remove the old nut and replace with the new self lock one.

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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 04:06 AM
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So, the factory/stock ends were "bent"? The links I took off my car I presumed were factory (straight links).
Factory links were the straight ones.

Joe

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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 08:28 AM
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Factory links were the straight ones.

Joe
Interesting..... my 96 was factory bent ones. Car's been in my family since day 1 and I was the only one other than the dealership to work on that car and they were never replaced till I did them at ~ 150K.

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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 06:03 PM
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Interesting..... my 96 was factory bent ones. Car's been in my family since day 1 and I was the only one other than the dealership to work on that car and they were never replaced till I did them at ~ 150K.
Mine were the straight ones, and I know they were the originals!

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