Rag joint help on a Daily Driver.. asap help please - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Rag joint help on a Daily Driver.. asap help please

okay, so i have neglected to fix a power steering issue for almost a year and a few days ago i went to turn right and heard a snap then my wheel was able to freee spin... after further investigation the rag joint has come off of my rack... my knowledge of the steering is minimal so i figured id better ask for opnions on if its shot or not... is there supposed to be a bolt through it? or how is it held onto the rack? this is a DD so fast responces would be super helpful!!

~Kyle~

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 09:27 PM
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Pics would help. Can you tell if its broken where it mounts or the joint itself?

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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i didnt take pics... should have though!! its stuck at work... i dont think its broken, it's jsut like it can loose or apart from the racks splines.... very odd just a big clunk and i looked at it and it was just chillin about an inch from the splines does a bolt hold it into the rack'ssplines?

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 09:35 PM
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It should be collapsible. So grab another bolt for the rag joint and try to pull it back out. Be sure to line up your steering wheel correctly first

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 10:31 PM
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yes 2 bolts on rag. one holds it to the steeringwheel side one holds it to rack side.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 11:24 PM
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modded

Hi

Here is a picture of my modded steering shaft.
I hope you can see it.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-17-2011, 11:57 PM
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What was blacked out?

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 03:28 AM
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What was blacked out?
That was a Government-redacted photograph. He had a classified ID number, and the name of the Grassy Knoll shooter printed on the crossmember, so of course they had to black it out.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 06:12 AM
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lol

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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So can anyne tell me an aprox. Size and if I need a nut or just a bolt? Gonna try to tet this goin again tonight

~Kyle~

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 01:32 PM
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Make sure not to let the wheel spin. If you do there is a good chance you'll 'over-turn' the wheel and break the clock spring.

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 02:55 PM
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While we're talking clock spring, is there a procedure on how to ensure the steering wheel is "centered" when installing a new rack?

Assume the wheel got turned by mistake while the rack was out... :-(

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 03:30 PM
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There may be a method, but I am not aware of one.

If that happened to me, I would remove the clock spring and reassemble making sure it is centered.

Usually I tie the wheel to the seat frame with a strap or rope while it is 'free'.

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 07:30 PM
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There may be a method, but I am not aware of one.

If that happened to me, I would remove the clock spring and reassemble making sure it is centered.

Usually I tie the wheel to the seat frame with a strap or rope while it is 'free'.
The clock spring assembly has directions printed in the plastic:

"Rotate ccw until tight, then about 2 3/4 turns cw till the marks on the case line up."

Theoretically, your steering wheel should be level there.

I just happen to have one laying here beside the computer, lol. ( Thanks, Splattered!)

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-18-2011, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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upon further investigation i snapped it!! i feel special... thankfully my parts car's was not broken, i figure by the looks of it, it'll last about 6 months, so that will give me time to save up for the stainless steel one!! so i have a long week ahead of me!!!

~Kyle~

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 01:30 PM
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 01:36 PM
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Anyone got a link to the stainless joint? Or is it the DLF piece?

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 01:49 PM
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DLF makes a bolt on piece but it can be duplicated using a flaming river joint and a small length of modified shaft. DLF's part is a good price though

-Matt
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
DLF makes a bolt on piece but it can be duplicated using a flaming river joint and a small length of modified shaft. DLF's part is a good price though
huh huh huh (beavis and butthead laugh)....he said 'joint'....

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
DLF makes a bolt on piece but it can be duplicated using a flaming river joint and a small length of modified shaft. DLF's part is a good price though
Yup, anyone can do it, if you want to buy at least 18" of stainless DD shaft.

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 08:52 PM
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...DLF's part is a good price though
I looked into this recently; unless you're a machinist, and/or can get the right metal for free, it's much cheaper.

Steel Joint vs rubber and rivets; hmmm...

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Steel Joint vs rubber and rivets; hmmm...
the thing that worries me about this, is the joint won't be the weak link anymore so i wonder what would be..

~Kyle~

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 09:51 PM
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the thing that worries me about this, is the joint won't be the weak link anymore so i wonder what would be..
The same thing that always was, the break-away joint under the dash.

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2011, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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oh.. good deal well i will be orderin it soon

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 05:48 PM
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That was a Government-redacted photograph. He had a classified ID number, and the name of the Grassy Knoll shooter printed on the crossmember, so of course they had to black it out.
Hi

Well I don't have the part anymore!

I can post a newer picture.


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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 06:01 PM
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Your welcome grog I used the flaming river joint because I had some serious clunking going on and didn't know where it was coming from so I figured being all original up front it was all going to get replaced and I replaced the rag joint. The shop that did the cutting and drilling of the bar said it was real tough stuff so you had better have some good tools to cut it. YOu get enough bar for like 4 peoples rag joint mods when you buy 18".

Spinning pies like wheels.

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Now with new ball joints...again
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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OKAY! so i got the rack out fine and dandy.... i got the rag on the steering shaft... on the rack people on here are saying that the 90* fitting is a pain.... i understand now.... i ended up takin the thing off the first time and now i cannot get it to go back on for shat!... everything else is flowin except for the pump pulley itsself..... any advice while were on the topic

~Kyle~

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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 06:41 PM
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Your welcome grog I used the flaming river joint because I had some serious clunking going on and didn't know where it was coming from so I figured being all original up front it was all going to get replaced and I replaced the rag joint. The shop that did the cutting and drilling of the bar said it was real tough stuff so you had better have some good tools to cut it. YOu get enough bar for like 4 peoples rag joint mods when you buy 18".
Closer to 8, it only takes a bit more than 2" of DD shaft per joint.

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 03:41 AM
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Closer to 8, it only takes a bit more than 2" of DD shaft per joint.
Even better man what kinds of tools did you use to cut drill and dimple them. If I want to hot rod like the ole skooler got to start with some good tools. Let me know what is some good stuff to buy if you want to be able to handle materials like these shafts.

Spinning pies like wheels.

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Now with new ball joints...again
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 10:41 AM
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Even better man what kinds of tools did you use to cut drill and dimple them. If I want to hot rod like the ole skooler got to start with some good tools. Let me know what is some good stuff to buy if you want to be able to handle materials like these shafts.
Nothing really special.

A quality back-frame hacksaw (I've got to get a metal-cutting bandsaw!).
A lathe to true the ends after cutting.
I made a jig to ensure that the hole/dimples are drilled in the correct place.
A good drill press and quality drill bits.
Cutting fluid (an absolute requirement when drilling SS).
And a bead blast cabinet to finish the job.

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