IRS Forward to Frame Bracket, sources? Sugestions on yard removal? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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IRS Forward to Frame Bracket, sources? Sugestions on yard removal?

So after getting the '93 stabilized for engine, steering, cooling, and finally brakes, I noticed my forward IRS to frame brackets were extremely rusted, but then I put my finger through one of them.

It looks to be the 5D022 in the bottom left hand of the diagram below. I can get the tools, but read somewhere that during assembly, they coated the bolts in something that makes then pretty tough to remove.

Suggestions? Thoughts? By the way, no luck at the dealership or Ford Parts Giant.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 06:18 PM
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Splattered's been selling good clean ones off of boneyard picks he's done.

Check the "For Sale" forum.

As to getting the bolt out - lots of PB Blaster and a good impact wrench. And if it's a northern rustbucket, may need to drill out above and remove the nut plate from there after twisting off the bolt.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 06:21 PM
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Splattared has been pulling them regularly off rust free AZ cars. Though last I checked there were still a few left new

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 06:24 PM
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The problem with removing the bolts is sometimes when removing the bolt, you can break the welds that hold the captive nut that is hidden inside the frame rail. If that happens, the nut will just spin and the bolt will neither tighten nor loosen. There is no access hold to get a wrench on it, so if it happens you need to break out a cut-off wheel and cut an access hole so you can hold it from spinning. Like Ralph said, PB blaster and an impact will definitely help the situation, but sometimes, especially on cars that have spent their whole life in this area, it is unavoidable.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 07:06 PM
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I like to use a hole saw then buy a plug to put back in the hole.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 07:09 PM
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The reason they rust through is people jack them up from that bolt point scrape off the coating and it rusts from then on. So people have been ruining them for years. Even here the coating will begin to peel sometimes at the edges, of course its not going to rust here but you get the idea in a northern car how easy it will rust there.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 07:48 PM
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There's definitely truth to that but it is a factory specified jack point.

-Matt
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
There's definitely truth to that but it is a factory specified jack point.
And one of the few points that doesn't bend when you use it to jack with, lol.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. Will definitely take the time and do the necessary.

Will follow up on the leads. I've had good luck separating with the Kroil oil even though it is a northeast car. Just takes a bit of sitting time unfortunately.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 09:15 PM
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I'll add that drilling a hole over the nutplate and soaking THAT in Kroil (so you can plug it later) might not be a bad idea.

(Drill the hole to match a plug, I mean ... )

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 09:23 PM
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Use a couple towels between the car and the jack and you wont scrape the finish off. I heard 50% trans fluid with 50% acetone is the best and breaking bolts free as stated by someone here.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 10:24 PM
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The sub-frame brackets (E9SZ-5D022-A, E9SZ-5D022-B) are still available from Ford for ~$25 each.

Unfortunately, the bolts are discontinued.

Also, I prefer to use a large breaker bar (instead of an impact gun) to remove the bolts. You can feel what is happening and it's not as stressful on the bolts and nuts.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splattered View Post
Use a couple towels between the car and the jack and you wont scrape the finish off. I heard 50% trans fluid with 50% acetone is the best and breaking bolts free as stated by someone here.
I have the most trouble with the stands, all mine distribute the load to the very edges and dent the crap out of them. I jack the car from the pumpkin mount.

-Matt
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLF View Post
The sub-frame brackets (E9SZ-5D022-A, E9SZ-5D022-B) are still available from Ford for ~$25 each.

Unfortunately, the bolts are discontinued.

Also, I prefer to use a large breaker bar (instead of an impact gun) to remove the bolts. You can feel what is happening and it's not as stressful on the bolts and nuts.
When they are rust freeish a 2ft bar gets them loose with a little effort. I do it sitting down in the dirt without even all my weight on it. I have broke 2 autozone 15mil 6pt sockets with 1/2 dr. while doingthis. No need some high quality stuff, I have been using a socket made by benchmaster hasnt broke yet.

To the OP I can get you the bolts if thats all you want and want to buy new brackets from ford. Personally Id bedliner them top to bottom anyway. The cups in the rear rust from the inside out as well. Judging from the response I got selling the whole set Id say these are a real sore spot for most cars in the rust belt.

The real sad part is the metal sleeve in the bushing is what gets fused to the bolt. Its a big job and not everyone has the ability to service this area hence they just let it go to hell.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
I have the most trouble with the stands, all mine distribute the load to the very edges and dent the crap out of them. I jack the car from the pumpkin mount.
I try to land the car where the to outer peaks of the stands land in the middle of bracket near the big bolt. Also card board is where that will come in handy to keep from ruining the finish. Use a couple layers. I also prefer to use the diff mount as a jacking point. I have pretty good condition one on the car that are original even with the mistreatment by bad mechanics from the original owner.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 10:44 PM
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So after buying three sets of brackets from you I couldn't get the first car I attacked to give up so much as one, count em 1 of those SOB bolts to let go.

I drilled a 1/2 inch hole over the bolt and squirted a bunch of kroil, WD40, PBlaster . nuthin. I used a 3-4 foot cheater and 6 point HD socket, just twisted/rounded off the nut.

Then I figured I'd cut of the head of the bolt, remove the bushing and put a big pipe wrench on it... but I'm going nowhere.

I think I might be better off welding it up? Has anybody tried this? with what result?

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platoribs View Post
So after buying three sets of brackets from you I couldn't get the first car I attacked to give up so much as one, count em 1 of those SOB bolts to let go.

I drilled a 1/2 inch hole over the bolt and squirted a bunch of kroil, WD40, PBlaster . nuthin. I used a 3-4 foot cheater and 6 point HD socket, just twisted/rounded off the nut.

Then I figured I'd cut of the head of the bolt, remove the bushing and put a big pipe wrench on it... but I'm going nowhere.

I think I might be better off welding it up? Has anybody tried this? with what result?
Please allow me to show you what I used to get my bolts off (the big one, not the little one which is a 1/2" drive impact):

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 08:26 AM
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Here's a thread I posted on the subject on another board.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=77102

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