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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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stock sway bars

are all the stock sway bars the same size 94-97 v-8 v-6? or did ford when thru the trouble of puttin thinner sway bars on the v-6's? mine looks like 1 1/8". any info greatly apperciated.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 12:00 AM
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They're different sizes: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/suspen...way-bars2.html

Moved to suspension

-Matt
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
They're different sizes: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/suspen...way-bars2.html

Moved to suspension
thx man just what i was lookin for!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 09:02 AM
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Sorry to bring back an old thread but what would be the best setup for stock sway bars front and back? I saw the tech article where it showed the SC's having the largest 1.20 in front and 1.10 in back. I dont know which is best between the tubular, solid and the ones it listed for the rest. I have the stock 97 Mark bars front and back right now and I have no idea what size those are. Thanks.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 09:44 AM
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I would go with these you will be very pleased .

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 10:51 AM
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Except the front addco bar just does not fit properly

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLINTHUNDER View Post
Sorry to bring back an old thread but what would be the best setup for stock sway bars front and back? I saw the tech article where it showed the SC's having the largest 1.20 in front and 1.10 in back. I dont know which is best between the tubular, solid and the ones it listed for the rest. I have the stock 97 Mark bars front and back right now and I have no idea what size those are. Thanks.
Solid is heavier but stronger than tubular.

Here's a suggested formula to calculate relative strengths of two swaybars.
[RelativeStiffness] = [OutsideDiameter]^4 - [InsideDiameter]^4

This also works for a solid bar, you just use zero for [InsideDiameter].

I can't tell you how thick a tubular bar is but as you can see, there is some relative stiffness loss between the tubular and solid bars of the same outer diameter.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/s197-...-sway-bar.html

Personally, I went from a 1.04" tubular swaybar (95 3.8L) to a 1.04" solid sway bar (90SC) and the difference was quite pronounced. The handling is great now (quite neutral) so I don't plan on messing with the suspension at all for our second race other than getting fresh tires.

-g

PS. I still have a rear sway bar from the 89 SC available for sale. Please see my thread in my sig for more details.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 02:46 PM
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And remember, the bigger the sway bars the more the suspensions will behave like solid axles. The springs themselves should be what do the majority of the work the sway bars do, the sway bars themselves should be for fine tuning.

-Matt
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 03:40 PM
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Thats some good advice guys. Yeah i dont plan on doing anything competitve like auto cross or such. Just a little stiffening up and body roll reduction. I suppose the stock SC bars would suffice for the way I drive the car. Im one of the old back country road at a little higher speeds type person. Lol.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 03:51 PM
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Believe it or not the SC bars sizes aren't much different than what was found to be ideal by Bob Bondurant for the Thunderbird at his driving school. Of course its spring rates were twice that of LX springs

-Matt
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-03-2012, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
Solid is heavier but stronger than tubular.

I can't tell you how thick a tubular bar is but as you can see, there is some relative stiffness loss between the tubular and solid bars of the same outer diameter.

Personally, I went from a 1.04" tubular swaybar (95 3.8L) to a 1.04" solid sway bar (90SC) and the difference was quite pronounced. The handling is great now (quite neutral) so I don't plan on messing with the suspension at all for our second race other than getting fresh tires.

-g
Hello Gunn

If I go with a smaller front bar, Is it like going with a bigger rear bar?

I had a big front bar, Car pushed in the corners.
I need to loosen the car up.


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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 10:42 PM
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Got the 89 SC bars today. Front bar looks huge and the rear is way bigger than the rear Mark bar thats on it now. Sounds like I will feel a noticable difference when I get these bars on there. Gonna clean-em up, sand them down and probly use some red caliper paint to make-em stand out. I assume my front links for the later spindles will work with the 89 bar. Also was able to snag the SC rear diff to!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 10:45 PM
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Just be aware that on that rear diff, even though it's a traclok, if it's from a manual, it's a 2.73, from an auto, IIRC it's a 3.27 (maybe even 3.08!!).

Good to use as a core, but I'd get it rebuilt with decent gears first.

RwP
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-08-2012, 08:18 PM
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Yeah it was from an automatic car. Was thinking of swapping the "posi" unit into the aluminum Mark diff I have on the car now. I plan on running some 4.10's in it. I hear alot of talk about the 3.90 gears being good in these cars but I know nothing about those and have no other feedback to go off of. I would be doing very little hwy driving. Maybe like once or twice a month.
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