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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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swaybar endlinks

i installed my vogtland's and got my car aligned, but since my car has the 1.6" drop springs my swaybar is not lining up. is it safe to say that since i dropped the car 1.6" i need 1.6" shorter endlinks?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderclaw View Post
i installed my vogtland's and got my car aligned, but since my car has the 1.6" drop springs my swaybar is not lining up. is it safe to say that since i dropped the car 1.6" i need 1.6" shorter endlinks?
Nope.

Are you talking about the front or the rear anti-sway bar?

In either case, if you shot some silicone or lithium around the sway bar into the bushing, you should be able to swing it enough to use the standard links.

Or, for the rear, adjust it to where it's level with the LCA when the rear suspension is loaded (i.e., up on ramps) and measure that, then buy a set for that spacing.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 05:13 PM
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I have the eibachs with the 1.5in drop on my 97bird, would I need to get shorter end links? It seems like they are wearing out alot faster then they should be.

---Jeremy
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 11:06 PM
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I lowered my 97 (with the tokico kit) and it wasn't any harder to to do the sway bars as my 89 (which has 93+ spindles and the same end links as the 97) that isn't lowered.

I want to try to use shorter rear links, I remember seeing someone that cut their front ones down but I don't think that any lowering makes the sway bars much less functional, I thought I had some comparison side by side pictures of the angles of the lowered versus not lowered, but I can't find them.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-14-2011, 09:36 AM
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On any lowered car the sway bar end links should be shortened. The sway bar should be level when the car is at a rest. When you lower your car the sway bar moves up. So in turns it has less room to travel. This also will change the ride quality.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1dd1cK View Post
On any lowered car the sway bar end links should be shortened. The sway bar should be level when the car is at a rest. When you lower your car the sway bar moves up. So in turns it has less room to travel. This also will change the ride quality.
IMHO, I'll second that. I've lowered my LSC via the air bag sensors and noticed that when I installed my ADDCO sway bar, at full bounce the sway bar might hit the power steering lines that are mounted to the cross member (and/or the actual cross member itself).

The center of the bar (the "U" shape) rotates fore and aft as the suspension moves. When on jack stands (i.e. the tires off the ground) it rotates forward and up, but when it is sitting on the wheels it rotates down and towards the rear. You have to make sure that at full bounce it still doesn't hit anything.

On the LSC it is simple since you can drain the air bags and lower the car to see a worst case scenario. That is how I noticed it: I lowered the car after replacing the front air bags and watched the bar rotate right into the cross member. (But the car was slammed for it to get that far back)

I had shortened end links on my MN12 with the Eibachs and ADDCO.

Just my .02.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 01:42 PM
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How do you make or find shortened front endlinks? I've got a set of shortened rear links, but they don't have any pivots in them and they bend every time I put the car on a jack because I forget to unbolt them BEFORE jacking the car up. I'm working on figuring out an easy way to shorten the factory rear endlinks, the kind that have a pivot in them.


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 01:57 PM
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What I did was cut 1" out of the middle of the straight part. Then I used a thick walled tube that fit snugly around the “stubs” and slid it over each end. I plug welded a couple of small holed I had drilled in the tube and also welded around the outside seam. But had to make sure the ball joints stayed in the right orientation and that the ends didn’t get too hot.

Original and you can see where I would cut the 1" section from:


I really wish someone would post some nice photos/instructions on how to make adjustable links using spherical rod ends.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 02:01 PM
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I've always thought that you could make a better rear link by cutting an inch or so out of a factory ford link, then cutting threads onto the stubs, and putting a turnbuckle where the missing section was.


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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 02:34 PM
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I never had any issues bending rear shorter endlinks. I'm using the tokico 1 1/4" drop kit with off the shelf energy suspension endlinks with no issues. I think your overtightening them if they bend when you jack up the car.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 02:35 PM
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I never had that issue either, though I always jack the rear up from the pumpkin mount rather than side by side.

-Matt
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2011, 07:36 AM
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I am lowered also with Eibachs 1.5 and use the rear Energy Suspension end links, I did bend one once but it was because I had them over tightened.




Last edited by 91bluecoupe; 08-16-2011 at 09:42 AM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-16-2011, 09:53 AM
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I have the Eibach 1.5" drop and when I bought my sway bar ADDCO sent the shorter rear end links with the bar. All you have to do is tell them it's lowered. My front links are OEM length and I haven't had any problems.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91bluecoupe View Post
I am lowered also with Eibachs 1.5 and use the rear Energy Suspension end links, I did bend one once but it was because I had them over tightened.



did the same thing w/ energy suspension end links. i could see where the links get bent cause i had the same issue. when i unbolted that bracket off the bar, there wasn't enough play on one side to install it w/o binding. so i elongated the holes on the bar (one side only) worked good.
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