Need to really Beef up Front Suspension - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Need to really Beef up Front Suspension

Hi, i really need to beef up my front suspension on my 96tbird, because im sick of things going bad on me wen the car only has 57000 miles, i do drive very very aggresive, but anyway i just replaced my both my upper control arms and now come to find out that i have to replace both my inner tierods and both front wheel bearings, so my question is what would be the best parts that i can get so i dont have to keep fixing this crap, the also has 350hp and 370tq just for refrence
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 05:34 PM
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Moog, TRW, Motorcraft for almost everything.

Only Ford for the strut rod bushings.

And one thing to consider, it's not the 57,000 miles, but the 16-17 years that's getting it.

Rubber fails, and if you haven't been aggressive keeping it in good shape, it'll fail and let dirt into and grease out of "sealed" units (such as the tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.)

Also - you might as well wish you didn't have to put oil and gas into the car, or tires on it.

Keep it in good shape, keep the maintenance up on it, and you'll be able to drive with minimal concern and with a long trip between service events. Ignore it (which I bet you did, if you've been heating up the power train but not checking the suspension first), and it'll bite you every time.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 06:03 PM
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Agreed with Ralph. Moog, Motorcraft, TRW; and TRW is the OEM suspension mfg. for Ford.

BTW, Just curious, how'd you get to 350 hp /370 tq ? Those are some impressive numbers.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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i got ford racing heads, comp cams, trick flow intake manifold, trickflow timing gears and chains, 2000 mustang timing chain cover, CAI intake, 75mm MAF and a chip, tring to get the motor ready for a cobra supercharger but havin lots of trouble with the suspension...
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 08:14 PM
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As you get older, you'll realize you've done that backwards.

A COMPLETE suspension rebuild with quality name brand parts will run less than a Trickflow intake manifold on a 4.6 ... and yields a car that can safely handle what you're putting down.

What you have now is a not-as-safe vehicle with lots'a go that won't stay on the road right.

I don't see in your profile, but I'd bet you're 25 or under (just as a wild guess - lotsa show for the girls, not as much preplanning.)

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 09:18 PM
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350hp is cool, a failed lower ball joint is not.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
i got ford racing heads, comp cams, trick flow intake manifold, trickflow timing gears and chains, 2000 mustang timing chain cover, CAI intake, 75mm MAF and a chip, tring to get the motor ready for a cobra supercharger but havin lots of trouble with the suspension...

You have 350 RWHP/370 RWTQ from a set of PI heads/cams/manifold and a chip?

What exactly are you doing to the motor to get it ready for a Cobra Supercharger?

What do you plan on doing with the trickflow manifold after you install the Cobra supercharger?

Any idea how a Cobra (4V) supercharger will "bolt up" to your "Ford racing" (2V) heads?

Do you happen to have a dyno sheet to back up this claim?

Exactly what type of "trouble" are you having with the suspension?

What have you replaced that has failed again and what brand parts did you use?

Your car is old, replacing suspension parts like UCA's, LCA's (w/BJ's), bearings (including the rear's w/hubs), is normal for these cars and given the fact that you drive "very, very aggressively" might give you a clue as to why your 15yr old car's suspension parts need replacing.

The folks here can help but please cut the BS.

Going back to sleep now,

-Scott
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Found manifold for 100 online thats why i got temporay it and getting a kit tork tech but still putting forged rods pistons and crank and already put new uper, and lower ball joints on awhile ago
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goose31 View Post
Found manifold for 100 online thats why i got temporay it and getting a kit tork tech but still putting forged rods pistons and crank and already put new uper, and lower ball joints on awhile ago
When you wrap your car around a pole due to zero supporting mods for that kind of power, I'll take the forged parts and Tork Tech kit...



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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 01:33 PM
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You found a TF intake manifold for $100 online?

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 02:36 PM
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I'd buy that in a heartbeat. Don't forget the front shock mounts. Forget about ball joints just buy complete arms. Moog only for tie rod ends. Like Ralph said Ford for the strut rod bushings. Shocks you can do whatever you want I have tokico blues and like them but others don't like them. I think it is because they didn't replace everything else as I did. Front engine control braces stiffen up the front a ton. I make my own but there are others here that make them as well.


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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 02:38 PM
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Are those welded on or bolted? or both?

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. FusionŽ Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 02:42 PM
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Made a world of difference when I replaced everything on my car with Moog parts. Using SC shocks and sway bars with Eibach springs.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
Are those welded on or bolted? or both?
I weld a bracket onto the rear then everything else is bolted on. I plan on making a batach of my revised version which connect to the front of the subframe as well in about a month. I had the connectors made by a buddy of mine who doesn't work in that business anymore so when I run out of those I will quit makin them.


Same goes for the RTLB I made, I gave up on them with aftermarket exhaust I think I need to make somethign that goes over instead of under. I even made them adjsutable but unless the exhaust shop keeps the pipes tight they still don't clear.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 03:09 PM
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I will be in for one that goes over Alan per your exact reason . I believe that my pipes are in the way as well.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 03:33 PM
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I think I am going to make 2 angle brackets that bolt to the mount location I don't see any other way to make it work, maybe put a bracket in front of the moutn to connect them together, but that may be overkill.
Alan
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 05:09 PM
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it's been awhile since i re did the front suspension in my '91 but i went all Ford (don't think you can get everything from Ford now-a-days )

And thinking of bracing, a twist to what Kenny Brown (and later someone else) was doing..


Picture 104 by 91XR7, on Flickr

And as you can tell, my car is lowered a little not the cleanest car underneath but i was more for function then show
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 05:26 PM
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Yeah that is why I did my braces the way I did, Mine sit above the subframe not below. Only the bolt head is lower than the subframe and that is directly in line with the wheels so it won't drag anyway.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 05:39 PM
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Yeah that is why I did my braces the way I did, Mine sit above the subframe not below. Only the bolt head is lower than the subframe and that is directly in line with the wheels so it won't drag anyway.
Alan
Well it was my first version of the braces. like they say `Hind sight is always 20-20'
BUT on the other hand, the bracing hitting the road surface instead of the sub frame is not a BAD thing and usually it only hits on dips in the road, i have not had them hit with speed pumps, ect it's usually the exhaust that hit in that situation
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 05:55 PM
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The exhaust is usually the lowest part of the system.
Alan
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 10:18 PM
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typically true, then add in aftermarket step-up it doesn't help at all

But back on topic again.

Wasn't there generally an issue with the '96/7 front ends wearing out prematurely? my '91 XR7 took until 120-130,000 miles before i rebuilt it, and honestly it was more just the strut rod bushings that needed to be replaced, upper/lower ball joints where still good, tie rods were still good, ect, ect
But the '96/7's it seems to be upper ball joints and strut bushings failing at a pretty good rate.

Heck my '96 i already had to replace the uppers and it only had like 75,000 miles on it at the time
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 10:30 PM
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As mentioned before age is the biggest enemy to overcome.
Alan
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 11:21 PM
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If you replace the worn/aged components with those from the recommended brands (Moog, TRW, Motorcraft; Motorcraft only for strut rod bushings), they should last another ten years and 100,000 miles.

There's never been any issue with the suspension wearing out prematurely on any specific model year cars, since they all use the same parts/design when related to the common suspension components. The longevity of the components (as in any other case) depends on [ab]use factors, maintenance/upkeep, and of course age. Properly maintained front ends can last well past 100k when the right parts are installed correctly.

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-12-2011, 11:53 PM
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You should use it or lose it... the parts will wear out just not being driven sad to say. 97 cream puffs right now will find their parts wearing out if they decide to drive it very regularly. Even though they are not scheduled for maintenance for a long time mileage wise. I built up the suspension first and just got rid of all the old junk just to start fresh. Only the bearings are stock on my front suspension. And those are not changing until a hub swap.

Spinning pies like wheels.

DD driving my 20 year old project

Now with new ball joints...again
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